Engine back together but did not start - Long
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Engine back together but did not start - Long
As a lot of you probably know I had an engine fire. I have been working on it for the last 2 weeks and finally have it all back together but it didn't start. It turns over real smooth but doesn't start. It shouldn't be flooding because I have a fuel cut switch. I do not know for sure if it is getting spark but it should be. I will be checking for spark in the next few days.
Here is what I replaced .....
all the vacuum hoses
all the fuel hoses
all the check valves
Switching solenoid valve (with a used one but in great condition)
Pressure regulator control solenoid valve (with a used one but in great condition)
The Metal maze of fuel and vacuum lines that bolts to the top of the engine
Oil injector lines
Upper Manifold (with a used one but in great condition)
Dynamic chamber (with a used one but in great condition)
Throttle Body and all attachments but the TPS(with a used one but in great condition)
Wire harness that goes to the injectors (with a used one but in great condition)
Primary injectors I sent to RC Engineering and changed all garments and orings
Secondary injectors I just replaced all the garments and orings
PD with Banjo
New battery
all new Gaskets with gasket sealer
.......
Right now I don't know why its not starting but was wondering if
1. The timing could be off?
I do not know how to check the timing nor do I have a timing light.
2. Could the Switching solenoid valve and the Pressure regulator control solenoid valve I replaced need adjusting
3. Could have I blown the engine during the fire because it did melt the oil injector lines and try and start it a few days after the fire?
Also I noticed when I was turning over the engine that no oil was going through the oil injector lines (the new injector lines are clear). Is that normal at startup
One more thing .... That long bolt that is in the middle top of the upper manifold that bolts it to the lower manifold I snapped. So the upper manifold is being held by only 4 bolts to the lower manifold.
I took many many pics as I was putting it together but they are not developed yet.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be as exact as possible.
George
Here is what I replaced .....
all the vacuum hoses
all the fuel hoses
all the check valves
Switching solenoid valve (with a used one but in great condition)
Pressure regulator control solenoid valve (with a used one but in great condition)
The Metal maze of fuel and vacuum lines that bolts to the top of the engine
Oil injector lines
Upper Manifold (with a used one but in great condition)
Dynamic chamber (with a used one but in great condition)
Throttle Body and all attachments but the TPS(with a used one but in great condition)
Wire harness that goes to the injectors (with a used one but in great condition)
Primary injectors I sent to RC Engineering and changed all garments and orings
Secondary injectors I just replaced all the garments and orings
PD with Banjo
New battery
all new Gaskets with gasket sealer
.......
Right now I don't know why its not starting but was wondering if
1. The timing could be off?
I do not know how to check the timing nor do I have a timing light.
2. Could the Switching solenoid valve and the Pressure regulator control solenoid valve I replaced need adjusting
3. Could have I blown the engine during the fire because it did melt the oil injector lines and try and start it a few days after the fire?
Also I noticed when I was turning over the engine that no oil was going through the oil injector lines (the new injector lines are clear). Is that normal at startup
One more thing .... That long bolt that is in the middle top of the upper manifold that bolts it to the lower manifold I snapped. So the upper manifold is being held by only 4 bolts to the lower manifold.
I took many many pics as I was putting it together but they are not developed yet.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be as exact as possible.
George
Last edited by 7Rebel; 03-20-02 at 09:14 PM.
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^to the top...
I cant say what your problem is....
I can say though, after my first rebuild, I had everything hooked up perfect, but it would not start. Then a -lightbulb- went off in my head. I didnt have the MAF sensor hooked up. The last thing that would have been connected. But I'm sure yours is, and you are not an idiot like me...
I cant say what your problem is....
I can say though, after my first rebuild, I had everything hooked up perfect, but it would not start. Then a -lightbulb- went off in my head. I didnt have the MAF sensor hooked up. The last thing that would have been connected. But I'm sure yours is, and you are not an idiot like me...
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Originally posted by niner
^to the top...
I cant say what your problem is....
I can say though, after my first rebuild, I had everything hooked up perfect, but it would not start. Then a -lightbulb- went off in my head. I didnt have the MAF sensor hooked up. The last thing that would have been connected. But I'm sure yours is, and you are not an idiot like me...
^to the top...
I cant say what your problem is....
I can say though, after my first rebuild, I had everything hooked up perfect, but it would not start. Then a -lightbulb- went off in my head. I didnt have the MAF sensor hooked up. The last thing that would have been connected. But I'm sure yours is, and you are not an idiot like me...
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Originally posted by Felix Wankel
Did you hook the fuel lines up the right way?
Did you hook the fuel lines up the right way?
#6
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Have you tryed rolling starting it with another car?
I left my car stood for 2 months and when i came to start it the thing was having none of it, i tryed alsorts and in the end i had to get it pulled.
I would check the timing,Fuel and spark if all that is there and the Comp is good it should run. i take it you dont have an Alarm that may be cuting the ignition or Fuel?
I left my car stood for 2 months and when i came to start it the thing was having none of it, i tryed alsorts and in the end i had to get it pulled.
I would check the timing,Fuel and spark if all that is there and the Comp is good it should run. i take it you dont have an Alarm that may be cuting the ignition or Fuel?
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Originally posted by Grizzly
Have you tryed rolling starting it with another car?
I left my car stood for 2 months and when i came to start it the thing was having none of it, i tryed alsorts and in the end i had to get it pulled.
I would check the timing,Fuel and spark if all that is there and the Comp is good it should run. i take it you dont have an Alarm that may be cuting the ignition or Fuel?
Have you tryed rolling starting it with another car?
I left my car stood for 2 months and when i came to start it the thing was having none of it, i tryed alsorts and in the end i had to get it pulled.
I would check the timing,Fuel and spark if all that is there and the Comp is good it should run. i take it you dont have an Alarm that may be cuting the ignition or Fuel?
But you just got me thinking .... There is really no one around that could help me push start it or check for spark. I think what I'm going to do is get some new plugs (or clean the ones I have) and try and start it. If that doesn't work I'll have it towed to Mazda (right down the street) and compression tested. Other than that I can't think of anything else I can do myself to get it started. I was just really depressed yesterday because of all the work I put into it to not have it start.
George
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#8
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Second gens are hard to start sometimes after an overhaul. Pour some engine oil (Less than half a cup on each housing) instead of ATF. After it starts run it for a while to get the oil out of the system, it will burn out quicker than ATF.
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
IF you used new apex seals and the housings were not garbage you shouldnt have to push it off. The worst thing Ive ever had to do to a fresh rebuild was pour some oil in it.
The engine needs 3 basic things to run: compression(we hope you've taken care of this one), spark, and fuel. Compression would be 6 good apex seals putting out 6 fairly strong whooshed. Remove the lower 2 plugs, crank her over, and listen.
TO check for spark, take an old plug, and one of the leading plugwires off, take off the rubber strut bolt cover, ands lay the plug/boot beside one of those bolts. Youll be able to see it from inside the car. Get in and crank and watch for little blue sparks, youll be able to hear them too. IN general, if you have spark on one wire you have it on all, but a very small percentage of time this could not be true.
TO check for fuel, I pull off the supply hose. This is the one that comes fromt eh bottom of the car, fuel filter. THe one that goes back to the firewall(middle of it) is the return side. The supply side has to go on the hard line in front on the engine. IF youre unclear about this, or your metal lines are way bent up, inspect the system: the fuel pressure regulator(on the 2ndary rail up top) has to be the last component before the fuel exits to return to the gastank. Follow the metal lines, the supply line should feed the primary rail first(lower short) then flow up to the 2ndary, then back out to the return hose. IF they are on backwards the car will NOT run.
Anyway to check for fuel I pull off the supply hose and remove both engine fuses and crank for a couple of seconds. Fuel should shoot out. IF ot, you have a electrical problem...fuel pump relay, ENGINE fuse(kick panel), wiring, faulty fuel pump. SHould this be the case, go back to the fuel pump and check those 2 thick wires for voltage...should see 10-12vdc, if not you have a wiring problem. IF you have voltage and the fuel pump doesnt shoot anything out(you can also pull off a line ON the fuel pump to check) then the pump i just plain bad and needs replaced.
GOod luck!
The engine needs 3 basic things to run: compression(we hope you've taken care of this one), spark, and fuel. Compression would be 6 good apex seals putting out 6 fairly strong whooshed. Remove the lower 2 plugs, crank her over, and listen.
TO check for spark, take an old plug, and one of the leading plugwires off, take off the rubber strut bolt cover, ands lay the plug/boot beside one of those bolts. Youll be able to see it from inside the car. Get in and crank and watch for little blue sparks, youll be able to hear them too. IN general, if you have spark on one wire you have it on all, but a very small percentage of time this could not be true.
TO check for fuel, I pull off the supply hose. This is the one that comes fromt eh bottom of the car, fuel filter. THe one that goes back to the firewall(middle of it) is the return side. The supply side has to go on the hard line in front on the engine. IF youre unclear about this, or your metal lines are way bent up, inspect the system: the fuel pressure regulator(on the 2ndary rail up top) has to be the last component before the fuel exits to return to the gastank. Follow the metal lines, the supply line should feed the primary rail first(lower short) then flow up to the 2ndary, then back out to the return hose. IF they are on backwards the car will NOT run.
Anyway to check for fuel I pull off the supply hose and remove both engine fuses and crank for a couple of seconds. Fuel should shoot out. IF ot, you have a electrical problem...fuel pump relay, ENGINE fuse(kick panel), wiring, faulty fuel pump. SHould this be the case, go back to the fuel pump and check those 2 thick wires for voltage...should see 10-12vdc, if not you have a wiring problem. IF you have voltage and the fuel pump doesnt shoot anything out(you can also pull off a line ON the fuel pump to check) then the pump i just plain bad and needs replaced.
GOod luck!
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