CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Ok im pissed, i just spent 25min trying to put my oil control ring's into my engine and they flat out wont go

Im using the vivton orings, is this my problem? I can get the ring in without the seal with some space, it is free to move etc, if i put the oring in the control ring, it wont go, not at all, ive managed to start working it in but it is so tight the springyness isnt there and it sits whereever leave it


and ontop of that, the g'damn thing cut open my fiinger and i bleed all over the place

Grumble..

-Jacob

WAYNE88N/A

Scathcart originally gave me this idea, so all credit goes to him...

Get a piece of plexiglass or lexan that will cover the whole rotor, make sure it's thin enough to "flex" a little, and place this on top of the oil control rings. Now just work your way around the suckers while seating them & viewing through the lexan to see how you're doing...

ddub

That's genius.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Shweeet, i just happen to have a bunch of plexi laying around too

ty

-Jacob

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

the atkins viton orings are actually the wrong size...they are oversized just a bit. They're said to actually be an SAE size, not metric like stock. Anyway, the first few times, I broke oil oring carriers like a mother until I figured out the trick. I use a 2-3lb ballpeen hammer for the job.

Lay the outer oring in place on the rotor. Get an oil can and go around the entire thing and be sure the entire oring and rotor mating surfaces get lubed well. Now...Im right handed so I start on the leftmost side, but whatever. Using the hammer directly on the carrier (this requires finesse, but can be easily done without damaging or distorting the carrier), COMPLETELY push the leftmost side of the carrier down into the rotor. The taps from the hammer need to come to the outer edge of the carrier, where it is strongest.

Now, use your left thumb to hold the ring down where you pushed it in. Start downward from that point with the hammer, tapping it down an inch or 2 at a time. Go from bottom to top, back and forth. Form a "c" with your thumb and index finger to hold your progress as you work to the right, evenly back and forth. BE careful as you get close to the right side, and you'll notice there is more tension...push harder with your thumb/finger downward while tapping with the hammer on top and bottom edge, and it will gradually fall right into place. You can try this with a rubber mallet if you're afraid you'll hurt the oring, but I build all my engines this way (it DOES take practice...use some old o-rings first).

The inners are quite a bit easier...lube, repeat process.

I do the outers first because they compress farther down into the rotor usually...if you do the inner first, you'll risk hitting it while installing the outer one.

Oh, and btw...don't worry about "springiness" of the oil seals...once theyre installed into the engine and it's tensioned down, they get compressed a LOT, and they never move again...