I was listening to my pioneer radio for about 3 hours (MP3 CD) without the engine turned on 12am to 3am. So I start my car 3:30am and it starts up fine(oh yeah just did an oil change 15w50 yesterday ). Then I headed home and changed and was getting ready for the day. So I was out and about and I turned the key and my 7 starts up fine again . But then after driving down the street to get to walgreens. The FC just completely shuts off.

I was thinking if the FC got flooded again....
so i did the unflooding procedure....
Took out the EGI COMP 30A fuse, cranked the FC with pauses between cranks
and I put the fuse back but the FC still didn't start. I kept doing this procedure but I knew it wasn't the problem.

I checked the fuses under the steering wheel and I looked at the engine fuse (15A) and I pulled it out and BAM! I think i found the problem....It was blown, So I guess this might have caused the engine to shut off....So I replaced it......with a brand new 15A fuse, then I started up the FC and she started up after a few cranks! So I was relieved that I fixed it....but after driving it down about 50 feet, she shuts off again! I checked the fuse again and it was blown ..... I replaced the fuse about 5 times, but after the 5th fuse, battery was at about 8 volts.

I ended up having my best friend tow my FC with a jump rope.
I'm kinda sad.. This FC means alot to me

What's wrong with her? Is there a way I can resolve this problem?

 

You might have a short.

 

+1 for the short.. a wire may have popped loose. Check all the connections and make sure they are secure. You can check for shorts using a multimeter.

Good luck

 

ENGINE fuse feeds the coil of the MAIN RELAY, CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY, the regulator on the alternator (small plug on alt).

IF you installed a fuel cut switch, see if that is scrogged.

 

Thanks guys for your help, I have a brand new multimeter sitting next to me from Penn Foster (Motorcycle Repair) and I was wondering how do I use it to check for the short?

 

Do I make these tips touch where the fuse goes in?

 

Well it's an given that if a fuse keeps blowing, and it's the right amperage fuse for the spot, then there is a short in the system. So you look at the wiring diagrams in the FSM and check out the items in that system.

IF you've installed an aftermarket whatever, and spliced into the stock wiring for power to it and the gnd to the new system, whatever it is, then that's where I'd start.

In you case I wrote above just what gets powered by the ENGINE fuse on a STOCK car.

IF no new items have been added to the car, I'd first go pull the Circuit Opening Relay out THEN put a new ENGINE fuse back in and turn the key to ON, and see if it blows or not. In fact, I'd put a new ENGINE fuse back in and wait five or ten minutes before turning the key to ON, just to see if something is rigged wrong before the key is put to ON. You'd look at the fuse again before going to ON.

IF the fuse does not blow with the circuit opening relay pulled, it's one of the other items blowing it. You'd next, if the ENGINE fuse blew again, pull the small two wire plug off the MAIN RELAY prior to installing a new ENGINE fuse, then install the fuse and turn the key to ON. IF it blows again, it's another thing that's fed by the ENGINE fuse.

You'd go pull the small plug off the alternator and put a new ENGINE fuse back in and turn the key to ON. See if it blows or not. IF it blows, then it's something to do with the black/white wire on the small plug on the alternator.

Actually you'd be better off pulling all three of the items mentioned above and then installing a new fuse. Then key to ON. IF it does not blow, then reinstall one item at a time til it does blow.

IF an aftermarkt whatever unit was installed, I'd unplug that sucker before doing anything else and see if THAT is what is wired wrong.

 

I downloaded the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from teamfc3s.org, and I'm looking at the wiring diagram but it's hard to understand because I don't know what I'm looking at. Can you help me locate where the Main Relay and Circuit Opening Relay are?

I did manage to unplug the Regulator on the alternator:

 

did you get anywhere man? I'm having the exact same problem.

 

just to add, my fuse doesn't blow unless the car is either running or I try to start it, it never blows in the "on" position.

 

1. You homemade Fuel Cut Switch is bad.

2. IF that isn't the case, pull the plug off the fuel pump and go to Start. In the past you say this act blows the fuse. IF the fuse does not blow now, then there is a short in the fuel pump. Not to worry. It's covered in fuel to put out the fire.

3. Or turn the key ON only. Now if it's a series four car, go to the AFM and push the vane in the afm aft at least a eighth inch. Then ask yourself "the fuse was good at On, and only blew when the vane was pushed aft, making the pump work. The pump must have a short in it's wiring or pump itself??"

4. Or turn the key to ON, then jumper the fuel pump check connector. Fuse blows when jumpered? Short in the fuel pump or it's wiring.

5. Or if it's a series four turbo car, it could be the circuit thru the Fuel Pump Resistor and Relay assy. So you just pull the plug on it, then jumper the either of the Blue wires in the plug to either of the Blue/REd wires in the plug on the harness. Then start the engine again. IF the fuse does not blow, then the RElay/resistor package is bad.

 

I don't have a home made fuel switch... the only aftermarket stuff on my car is CD player, racing beat FCD and a 3" exhaust. and i guess emissions delete.


Thanks a lot for the tips though, i really do appreciate it.

 

You can see that 15a fuse in the schematic. Follow it and you can see it only feeds one of the two relay coils inside the Circuit Opening Relay, and IF that relay pulls in, it also feeds the fuel pump. So say that relay pulls in, and the contact makes, then the fuse feeds the LR wire leaving the Circuit Opening Relay and now can feed the Fuel Pump Resistor and Relay.

So the L/R wire leaving the Circuit Opening Relay turns into two L/R entering the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay. One L/R feeds a fixed resistor in the assy and the other L/R feeds a switch that can either be closed or open. During Start that path is open, so the problem might be the fixed resistor in the assy. Or a short in the fuel pumps wire (or fuel pump itself). Thats the (2) Blue wire leaving that assy going to the pump.

There's another possibility with the Fuel Pump/Relay Resistor package not worth mentioning.

Anyway, pulling the plug off the Fuel Pump Relay/Resistor and doing the jumper job I mentioned in the other post, should verify if that assy is the problem or ....not.

You can also see how that 15a fuse also can feed the coil on the Main Relay. It's not that likely that Main Relay is the problem because the problem only happens if the engine is running or you go to Start. Slim that that relay is bad. If it were that relay, then the fuse would blow anytime the key was On after a few minutes whether or not the engine was running or not and whether or not the key went to start or not.