energy bushings
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 660
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From: San Diego, CA
energy bushings
well i had a full set in the rear of my car for about 6 months, and i finally started to install them. thank god i had to replace my rotors a few months back, otherwise i would be going insane right now. i had snapped every caliper bolt, seriously, that was stupid crazy. anywho, because of that i now religiously anti-seize every suspension bolt that comes out...
anywho, i spent about 4 hours today at the local auto shop. all i got done was the two drivers side control arm bushings, i put a lot of that grease on them because i have heard others were squeaking.... most of the time was spent cleaning in the sand blaster and parts washer though. turns out now i need a new rotor guard, mine won't stop scraping on my rotor now...
is it normal for the control arm to be hard to move after installing the bushings, because it took some effort to move the control arm after installing them, but when i loosened the front bolt of it, it slid like butter, hmm. anyone.
and do i have to take the sway bar off, because that seems like the only way to get the new bushings on as they are not open ended. hope this will make everything look better once my rebuilt calipers are going on. i am rebuilding my third set and selling a set of them, since i got a deal at pick and pull i am going to try to get some good parts for someone else too...later
edit, and btw, it was really hard to seperate the spindle from the ball joint, so i tore the rubber boot. where can i get a new rubber boot
anywho, i spent about 4 hours today at the local auto shop. all i got done was the two drivers side control arm bushings, i put a lot of that grease on them because i have heard others were squeaking.... most of the time was spent cleaning in the sand blaster and parts washer though. turns out now i need a new rotor guard, mine won't stop scraping on my rotor now...
is it normal for the control arm to be hard to move after installing the bushings, because it took some effort to move the control arm after installing them, but when i loosened the front bolt of it, it slid like butter, hmm. anyone.
and do i have to take the sway bar off, because that seems like the only way to get the new bushings on as they are not open ended. hope this will make everything look better once my rebuilt calipers are going on. i am rebuilding my third set and selling a set of them, since i got a deal at pick and pull i am going to try to get some good parts for someone else too...later
edit, and btw, it was really hard to seperate the spindle from the ball joint, so i tore the rubber boot. where can i get a new rubber boot
Last edited by slomo85; Oct 29, 2005 at 10:15 PM.
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 24
From: Rohnert Park CA
No, the control arm should not be hard to move, are you sure you removed the old bushing slides??? (should be thin metal surrounding the old bushing when it came out).
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 660
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
umm, i removed the whole bushings, if i didn't i would have never gotten the new ones on. they went on pretty much by hand. i think it's because i tightened the bolt to much. i am refering to the point on the control arm w/one bolt holding it. when i tightened it the arm was hard to move... i am gettin in there again today to replace the dust guard, horrible scraping sound, eek. so maybe i will loosen it a little...
The Cause of Death
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,202
Likes: 2
From: New York
You do not need to remove the sway bars to put new bushings in the end links.
I put poly bushings in the front sway bars of my car in like 20 minutes, it took longer to burn out the stock rubber bushings.
The rears were a little bit more of a pain in the ***, but still not very hard at all. Just remember how it all comes apart and then put it back together the correct way.
Good luck,
James
I put poly bushings in the front sway bars of my car in like 20 minutes, it took longer to burn out the stock rubber bushings.
The rears were a little bit more of a pain in the ***, but still not very hard at all. Just remember how it all comes apart and then put it back together the correct way.
Good luck,
James
yo yo i just installed my set, the front is NOT hard at all very easy also with the swaybars f/b very easy to do. The back i dont know, has anyone else done the back that **** looks crazy. But ne ways check it. Do one side at a time so you have the other side to look at when putting back togeather.
1.remove tire
2.spray wd40 or zep on whatever your unbolting if you want, makes it easer though
3.unbolt the sway bar end-link
4.unbolt the pinch bolt on the steering knuckle
5.unbolt about half-way the bushing clamp on the rear on the c arm
6unbolt the nut and pivot bolt, use a hammer if it dosnt come out easy, then eather you can just pull it out, our u need to unbolt the bushing clamp all the way. It helps when you do it half way so you dont need to support the control arm from falling. And to put it back togeather the reverse the step's.Thats my write up, I hope it helps, and i hope it makes since Later
-Mike
1.remove tire
2.spray wd40 or zep on whatever your unbolting if you want, makes it easer though
3.unbolt the sway bar end-link
4.unbolt the pinch bolt on the steering knuckle
5.unbolt about half-way the bushing clamp on the rear on the c arm
6unbolt the nut and pivot bolt, use a hammer if it dosnt come out easy, then eather you can just pull it out, our u need to unbolt the bushing clamp all the way. It helps when you do it half way so you dont need to support the control arm from falling. And to put it back togeather the reverse the step's.Thats my write up, I hope it helps, and i hope it makes since Later
-Mike
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Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 660
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From: San Diego, CA
me, umm did you read the first post. where is says when i had to replace my fotors, i snapped the head off every, that's right, every caliper bolt. i am now having similar problems...
despite that, i took the whole front sway bar off, and sandblasted it and all the bolts, installed the new bushings, and anti-seized the bolts. it should be much easier for me to work on this car in the future, because i am basically getting anti-seize on everything down low...
despite that, i took the whole front sway bar off, and sandblasted it and all the bolts, installed the new bushings, and anti-seized the bolts. it should be much easier for me to work on this car in the future, because i am basically getting anti-seize on everything down low...
