What is your Opinion of Energy bushings?

I am thinking of buying some for my 1990 T2 and would just like to know what you think of them ? (easy to fit, right sizes, no probs etc)

Thanks.

Chris

 

Don't order the master kit, The sway bar bushibgs suck. Just order the large bushings from them and the sway bar bushings from racing beat

 

Banzai:

Don't order the master kit? Why? I'm interested to hear why.

 

"Don't order the master kit, The sway bar bushibgs suck."
---------------------------------------------------------
I think that's exactly what he was trying to tell you . But I have heard the samething from a few people about the master kit.

 

Hmm...which ones (from the kit) are the swap bar bushing? I haven't looked at the bottom of my car so I don't recall which ones they are. Any pictures of them?

Why do they suck? Are they not the proper size? Or is the polyurethane material too soft?

 

banzai,

the RB bushigns will fit a stock sway bar?

 

you talking about the endlinks or the sway bar to frame bushings??

the RB endlinks would be better. I don't think you can buy the RB bushings. they would only fit with the RB sway bars anyways.

 

get the mazdatrix end links instead... they actually fit right on a s5 cars

 

I have the same car and thinking about getting the RB sway bar too any one out there try it on there car yet please give info.

 

It would only make sense to buy the master kit if you're not going to change the sway bar diameter from stock. If you ever buy a bigger sway bar (Racing Beat, Eibach, Suspension Techniques), new polyurethane bushings most always come with them.

Anyhow, I've only heard good things about Energy Suspension bushings. They're going to be my first suspension mod. Probably ordering them next month (who knows how long it will take to get around to putting them in though).

 

Yo,


I just put them on my front A-arms on the GTUs.

Check this thread for pics:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=151896

Getting the rear stock rubber bushings off is a challenge. It looks like the usual way is to light them of fire and let them burn for 15min, then cut off the inner metal tube.

We used a razor blade and a dremel tool to cut them off. It's a messy and tiring job. We also scored the inner barbed end of the A-arm, but no biggie.

Ride is firmer, turn in is sharper. Only problem I'm dreading is when they start to squeek...oh well.

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Only did the front A-Arm."

 

I put the master kit on my 88 TII and it all worked great. The Large ones on the rear end of the lower front arem were a pain to get off. Torch to melt em and a big pair of grips to turn em. Then the sanding began. The new ones fit on great though.

 

I have the rear control arm bushing and have yet to put them on becasue of the pain in the *** job, could I just use a recpricating saw to cut them out? the front controll arms wern't that bad, Just used a hacksaw and cut diagnoly and pryed them off, but hell yeah turn in is much stiffer, no more wandering on the freeway, and a better ride....I don't know why the full kit would be bad to buy, seems like a better deal to me!

 

Are Energy Bushings better than Hyper-flex? they seem to be the too names that keep coming up.

Chris

 

Energy Suspension is the company. The "Hyper Flex" bushings is the particular name for the product.

Here is the company's website:
www.energysuspension.com

 

Just to make myself look Dumb!

LoL

Chris

 

I have a 90 GXL. Last weekend, I put Energy Suspension polyurethane (PU) bushings on my front lower control arms. The job went without any problems. I used a bearing separator and a hydraulic press to remove the large rear bushings from the arm. I also used the press to press out front bushings -- again, pretty simple. The new bushings went on easily by using only hand-pressure. I may be a good idea to grease them well before installing. I would suggest going to a marine store and buying a tube of high-quality water resistant grease.

I replaced the rear trailing arm bushings with PU just last January. I removed the entire rear end and subframe (to do some other work) and I changed the bushings at the same time. These bushings were more difficult to remove. I used a propane torch to burn the rubber, and a 10" piece of 1/2" water pipe to push the rubber out of their respective sleeves. Once the rubber is out, you'll notice that there's a gap between the two metal sleeves within the trailing arm. The pipe can then be wedged against the sleeve edge at the gap, and the sleeve can be hammered out. Same can be done on the other remaining sleeve. After cleaning the hole, the new PU bushings went in easily by hand.

I also installed rear steer elimanator bushings sometime last year. I torched these out, and then used a press to push out the sleeves. These sleeves are one piece.

Several years ago, I bought and installed the Eibach antisway bar kit, which included both front and rear bars. These bars are larger than the stock ASBs, and came with PU bushings. I would stay that the ASB PU bushings are probably the most susceptable to squeaking, and will need to be removed periodically and regreased.

The PU will make a noticeable difference in handling/ride, especially if your old bushings are shot. For my car, the rear steer elimanator bushings made the biggest difference in handling improvement. Next, repalcing the rear bushings on the front lower control arms also made a big difference. The stock rubber bushings seem to have a relatively short lifetime -- it seems like after only a couple years they need replacing. When these bushings are bad car tends to track slight imperfections in the road, and as a result does what is called "tramlining". Makes driving on some roads a PITA. I hope the PU bushings will last longer than the stock rubber bushings. Overall, you'll notice a harsher ride with PU bushings, but the handling will become much more precise.

Hot_Dog
90 RX7 GXl
02 RSX-S

 

Ok i have progresed since i started this thread, i now have some Energy Bushings.

I fitted the Ft ok with no problems but when i came to do the rears i found the Bolt that goes through the rear trailing arm (the one with the Toe ajustment near the ft corner of the wheel arch) was stuck solid? is there only one possiton it will come out or am i just not hitting it hard enough

Thanks.

Chris

 

Ok i belive you call them Rear control arms! but anyway do the ft bolts just knock out or do they need to be in a set position?

Thanks.

Chris

 

-Front End Control Arm Bushing Set
-Rear End Control Arm Bushing Set
- Front Sway Bar Frame Bushings
-Rear Sway Bar Frame Bushings
-Front End Links
-Tie Rod Boots
-Front Ball Joint Boot Set

Are Included In the kit. This will be the next mod on my list.

 

I am struggling slightly, i dont know if the Two bolts in question are simply tight and want knocking out or need turning to a position before i can knock them out? sounds easy but with me living in the UK i have to be realy carfull with this sort of stuf as geting hold of new parts are a nighmare.

Cheers.

Chris

 

I assume you removed the nut on the inside.
It should look like this:

 

Thanks.

I was having problems removing the bolt, the problem was i did'nt know if it had to be in a position or if it had a secondry nut or somthing.

From your pictures it looks easy, just drop the Subframe and knock it out.

Thanks again.

Chris

 

Sureshot, did you struggle geting the new bushings in the Rear control arms?

I dont know if its just me but they seem to big?

This job has been a Pain in the A**e from day one and it is'nt getting much better.

Chris

 

My Kit Is on the way.