Well, its really hard to believe this is happening, but it seems although my oil seals are starting to fail . The car had 100k miles on it when purchased and was owned by one lady before me who seemed to take care of it regularly based on past recipts/service history. Along the way I added some mods (mentioned below). I drove the car really quite hard during mountain runs but my maintance also matched the driving. All fluids were changed during regular intervals, oil every 2.5k miles (castrol 20-50 with Mazda filter) and never had any real problems before this. i never "abused" the car, always let it warm up in the mornings, not revving past three till I felt the motor was up for it, and always gave it cool down time after hard runs.

The reason I believe its the oil seals is because of the smoking during startup. It happens only on the first start of the day but it smokes quite a bit. Surprisingly though, oil consumption hasnt increased very much if any. Its been getting a little worse and worse so I think I may have to deal with this before it progresses any further.

I plan to go with a S5 T2 motor and am somewhat familiar with the costs and factors involved. I plan on using my NA drive line with it as well.

My questions for you guys are:

Why would the oil seals fail at (112K) miles? The only thing that comes to mind is oil temps were too much. You can think of the type of driving thats done as being no different then track conditions, but the car never overheated and temps were very cold outside (low 30s).

Any recommendations on where to go for the motor? Im looking for a T2 S5 motor, most likely jspec, do you guys have any recommendations?

Any additional information I may have overlooked would be greatly appreciated and yes Ive also been searching and reading up so I know this may be a bit repetitive to some. Thanks for reading this guys.

 

how much do you trust that old lady?
Just remember that many Jpsecs are blown or near blown when you buy them, and that they will have a very hard time passing emissions.

 

btw- the smoke on startup is all very much blue smoke.

I really dont think she did anything critical to the cars condition.
Yea I have heard that some places offer at least start up warrenties with compression tests before being shipped so I guess thats better then nothing. As far as emissions goes, im not worried about them at all so its not a factor.

 

These engines hate to be babied. That "easy" driving of the old woman killed the engine premautrely.

Kick her in the bahamas and say, "The RX-7 club knows about j00!"

 

Yea, but im not sure what exactly happened to the seal that caused its failure. Any idea?

I'll take your advice on the kick though lol.

 

In general, our engines need to be redlined there whole lives. If that old lady never took it to redline in the first 100k, then the engine won't be able to take the high revs now.

 

Yea, the 6 port system was totally locked in carbon im guessing it was. Took 9 cans of carb cleaner and a brass brush to get everything cleaned up again and didnt wanna take a gamble on using the 6 port actuators again.
But once everything was in top condition it was marginally quicker then a stock S4 T2 so it wasnt off the ball IMO.

 

you shouldnt of used 20w50 in an NA engine...stick with 10w30

 

I wouldnt go with an S5 TII engine without reserving some money for a driveline swap. Kevin at rotary resurrection has 2 drivelines right now complete for 600 bux. very good deal.

The turbo engine is gonna cost you at least 1300, then you need to buy a boost gauge (good one = 130), buying a DP will cost you minimum of 50 bux for a stock precat unit, if you have any exhaust mods (midpipe, catback, high flow cat) you might need to buy a FCD (120 bux if not done yourself).

That means your already at around 1,590 bux. push a driveline in there and its 2,190.

Are you installing things yourself? if not put at least 1k on for labor.

Its not cheap...dont think it is....ive spent over 3,500 on mine...and i already have the goodies coming

 

thats why im just gunna sell my NA and buy a T2

 

Yea, like I mentioned earlier, im somewhat familiar with the costs involved. Off the bat I plan to go with uprated Walbro fuel pump, secondary injectors, downpipe, mated to my CS catback, FCD and boost gauge. I wont be doing anything else power wise besides the full exhaust and intake.

As far as the driveline, im gonna try running the NA tranny and see what happens in the mean time. Id also prefer not to deal with rotary ressurection for future purchases.

Thanks for the replies so far.

 

I would imagine it is the thermal pellet not functioning properly which overheated the oil in the rotors which in turn fried the rubber o-rings. Ask a friend to follow you and see if you get a puff of smoke when you step on it hard or rev it real high.

 

 

Thanks for that bit of info rxseven, that hadnt crossed my mind earlier.

As far as using the NA transmission, do I need the S5/S4 NA clutch and PP to work with the T2 engine?

 

If you are using the N/A tranny, you'll need the N/A clutch and flywheel.