jester1341

i failed MD state emissions today. my readings versus the max reading were as follows:

Max. Mine

HC 1.8000GPM 4.6676GPM
CO 30.0000GPM 40.6600GPM
NOx 2.800GPM 0.5564GPM
CO2 N/A 466.4426GPM



according to that image i am running rich. i have a short list of mods including a turbo back RB dual exhaust, S5 turbo and manifold, DYI BOV, TID and K&N FIPK, untuned S-AFCII,.....a few others, but none that should effect emissions. the car still has a cat, which i can only assume is still good and not clogged. the car idles at 1500RPM's all day long and "pops" when down shifting at rpms above about 3500.

i have two questions and i am also open to suggetions, but i wanna try to fix this for free before i go to a "VEIP recamended mechanic".

one) can i use my SAFC and lean out the curve just for emissions and then go back to reg.?

two) there is a '****' on my pass. strut tower, i think sumone told me this is to manually adj. A/F for idle of something?? also how would i adj idle speed??

thats all i think i have to start......sumone please help thanks

Scott 89t2

1500rpm idle?? I would try to fix that first.

ddub

First I would definitely try and fix your idle, thats not helping.. then with the s-afc yah you can lean it out as much as possible from 0-3000 rpm's approximately.. look for the emissions threads that i had (the original one and the update) you'll see how much i was able to improve and how i did it (the s-afc helpd the most tho ). I was so close to passing but couldnt, so i gave up and am getting a PO box now, but what I did with the s-afc is at 1000 rpm setting i set it to -19, then -23 at 2000 and 3000... then as soon as i was done with the test i just set it all back to normal

casio

your idle is high.
untuned s-afc? tune it. a properly running engine has more pep than one running rich. save some fuel and run cleaner.
you're obviously running rich. i always hate to tell people to lean their a/f out if they dont *know* the condition of their engine (compression for one thing). it seems like you should be able to lean it out some if your engine is healthy. access to a dyno with a/f reader would help a lot.
your HC is way too high. lean that out and your CO and CO2 will drop, whereas your NOx should rise some, but not enough to hurt you.

*your car, your money, your decision. trust me, a few a/f runs on a wideband dyno and tuning with the s-afc should be cheaper than someone telling you they dont know what the problem is (from experience). also, your tuning will allow you to gain a few ponies. may also wanna invest in a real good EGT gauge in the near future.

ddub

oh yes and since you have turbo, i would NOT lean it out as much as I did mine, that could be dangerous as ive heard leaning out turbos *too* much isnt good

jester1341

i think the strip around here just resentlly opened again...i could go up on saturday maybe[test and tune]

now on to idle how do i adj that??

jester1341

i need a Boost gauge and an EGT gauge any ideas on a good one......i am gonig with an apexi electric EL series boost gauge.

ddub

with the s-afc just go into the lo-throttle settings, pick the 1000rpm part, and subtract fuel to a point that is still safe and ur car can hold its idle and not die

you can also adjust the variable resistor (i think thats what its called) which is the screw near the strut tower on the passenger side, it has to do with idle mixture it will say "L R" with an arrow in between, so L for lean and R for rich, turn it more to the lean side to a point where your car still cooperates and doesnt sound like its dying of fuel starvation

ddub

www.egauges.com go for the autometer z series

DerangedHermit

I dunno how often you have to take emissions test, or what happens when you fail one, my state doesn't have them.

A quick fix if you know you're going to fail is to mix the gas with... ummm. Crap, forgot. It's on a thread somewhere. Nevermind, found it.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ions+test+fail

Oh, all this is if you have to take it again soon or something. Or just good information for the future.

1500 idle also isn't good. That needs to be changed anyways.

casio

this seems weird because if you have an intake leak (throttle body for example), your idles raises. mine sat around the 2500rpm area. so could there be a chance that he has an intake leak?
in my head, a high idle would be caused by more heat (energy/lean). [obviously i could be wrong which is why tech advice would be nice]

do you have the measurements for your car at idle (1500)?
i assume also you didn't get an O2 reading. (?)

casio

if your car should pass (runs well, has a cat and working smog pump, isn't bridged or p-ported), than a quick fix is only good for a sticker. sure, i'd love my sticker, but i'd also like my car to run properly (use less gas, make more power).
hell, RarestRX gained like 15hp from leaning out his car (and .6 tq!). he also had a flatter power curve whereas before he had squiggly lines. though cute, they shouldnt be there.

ddub

when i set the 1000rpm at -19, my car was idling at about 500 as i subtracted more and more fuel the car wanted to die, -19 was the most i could lower it to where it would still run and stay running

DerangedHermit

Well the quick fix idea is only that, a quick fix. If you don't have time to fix it before the test.

But definately get it running right afterwards.

jester1341

now i have an S-AFCII so i have 12 adjustable points....should i lean alot on the 1st and get closr to 0 or only do the 1st??

ddub

s-afcII has the 300 rpm increments right? well this is what i would suggest to do, make your ne points something like 600, 900, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2100, 2400, 2700, 3000, 3300 in the lo-throttle setting... now you can go higher than that depending on what your rpm was in the cruise test but i think i went to 4000 in 1000 rpm increments with mine

now what i'd do is start at 600 and set it to something like -10 and see how it runs, if you feel SAFE going lower then that then go ahead, but remember this is a suggestion and i dont know a ton about turbos... so what you can try and do is go as low as possible in the 600 setting to a point where the car is chugging and wants to die, then back it off by adding 2-3 back to it, so it will idle safely and steady... then from there at each rpm increment after that subtract a couple more than the previous until about 2000 and then keep it at that level (whatever it ends up at) for the rest of the way. Once again my settings were -19 at 1000 and -22/23 (cant remember, one of those) for 2000 and 3000. This was also with the variable resistor set all the way lean. Now i have a TII fuel pump in my n/a so im running a little rich all the time anyways, so thats why i leaned it out so much. Another idea would be to turn your boost down to 0 so you're running no boost at all for the test, plus i'd think thats safer to lean it out with no chance of it boosting. Drive carefully and safely to the test and as soon as ur done, set everything back to 0 as soon as you can. Also, before going to the test, try and go on the freeway for about 10-15 min and drive it hard and get everything all warm (this is with the settings normal, no leaning) and then when you go to the test switch it to the test settings.

Thats all I can think of for now.



Also, last note, fix your idle before you do this, cuz 1500 is too high, at least get it down to 800/900. If you cant figure out why, check and set your TPS and then if it's still screwed up, there's an idle setting you can turn it down with..

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Another way to handle this is to fix the problem (which is what I plan on doing when I go for emissions in MD a few months from now). Here is my plan: Find a friend that is a mechanic, and ask him to write you a receipt for some shiny new bling bling catalyitic converter, plated with gold that costs 450 dollars. Now, you actually have to BUY something that resembles a cat and looks sort of new. They will probably try to visually inspect it. 450 dollars of repair work = passed emissions. It's also 30 days retroactive to the day you got your emissions done, so if you had any work done to an emissions related peice of equipment prior to the day you got it tested, you can list that as part of your waiver.

I just had my engine rebuilt So i'm going to try to use that as my waiver.

casio

waivers in texas, as i am told, are only good for one run. you dont pass next time, they buy your vehicle for what they see as a fair price (up to $2000 i believe i was told) and repo it.
of course, this may not be true now or maybe never was, but its somethin to consider. anyone comes to repo my car, it'll be an empty shell by the time they get to it. might even keep the paint for myself.
dont steal my stuff!

ddub

I dunno about MD emissions, but in WA it has to be a state emissions certified shop (there's a list at the emissions testing of places you can go) in order to get the waiver... if it is not a state certified shop then they wont give you the waiver. However, once again this is in WA not MD so im unsure about your laws

ddub

really? that's crazy... in WA if you get the waiver you have to come back the next year to get tested, and if you fail again i believe you dont have a chance for the waiver anymore and you wont be able to get updated tabs until you can pass

jester1341

okay i was just doing a little playing on the SAFC and the lowest i can start is 800 i can go up in 200 incraments but i went up in 400's. i have about the 1st 1600 rpms set to -17 and the car still idles steady at 14-1700[jumped a little as i adj but then evened out] it then gradually comes up to 0 at aroun 3500

how can i get my idle down i cant find the screw under the hood, where exactlly is it??

jester1341

any Tii owners have this problem and try to fix it in the same way????

ddub

FSM 87-88 TurbII Fuel and Emissions Control Systems:

















Hope that helps

jester1341

i am seeing no difference by turning either the screw in the BAC valve or the radioshack **** attached to the three prongs inside the round housing

i cant work on it right this sec i have to go pick up my gf.......anymore help please??

ddub

*NOTE* The pictures were out of order before, I fixed it now, sorry.


Neither one was working? Well then, thats odd. Maybe your BAC isn't functioning or the idle control isnt working right, I'm really not sure as I'm not that familiar with how the idle works and is adjusted, all I know is what I read in the FSM

Sorry, but I'm out of ideas about your idle.