2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Emissions help needed...

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Old Feb 27, 2002 | 10:05 PM
  #26  
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From: Pluto
The switch is located at the bottom driver's side of the radiator.To test it simply drive your car until it is up to normal operating temperature,pull the wires off the switch terminals and test the terminals for continuity.If you do not have continuity the switch is NFG and should be replaced.This is done by simply screwing the switch out(it is a "dry" switch and there is no need to drain the radiator).If this switch is NFG you will get virtually no air to the ports or the cat because the relief valve WILL NOT close.This may explain why the split air line had little flow when you tested it.
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Old Feb 27, 2002 | 10:30 PM
  #27  
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Yo yours a N/A right?

I'll sell you a AFM and ECU
for $50 including shipping

kabooski@rx7club.com
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Old Feb 27, 2002 | 11:21 PM
  #28  
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From: Hood River oregon
Originally posted by 86rx7ntm
u got a one year waiver that's nice...now take ur time...do some performance mods...and move OUTTA Arizona the soonest u can...
Wouldt that be nice....But I cant.
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Old Feb 27, 2002 | 11:30 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by HAILERS
J-RAT, I owe you an apology. We troubleshot your car and determined that your problem is indeed the fact that some yoyo installed the rotor housings *** backwards, meaning the PORT AIR from the acv cannot possibly mix with the exaust. It meets a dead end in the housings. Now the apology is, that I thought my wifes 86 has the same situation, even though it just passed emissions a month ago with flying colors. I tore my intake off to confirm the housings were switched, but no they were not. After swapping in two known good acv and not making the 02 sensor drop to zero or less at idle(it showed .85v, rich, rich), I blew into the passages to make sure they were not blocked like yours. They were not. I put it all back together and pondered. Stared at my rich/lean screw. Seemed it could'nt be that since it was less than half way towards rich. Took the screwdriver to it and turned to the lean range. Instant drop of the o2 voltage from .85v to -.010v. DUH! Shoulda told you, but I was hoping the new cat would get you by emissions. One thought I had on your car was to take a drill and drill four holes in the exaust manifold to match the four holes in the rotor housings. That would let the port air to mix with the exaust. Short of a rebuild, thats all I can think of doing. Might try that on a exaust manifold out of the wrecking yard, or will someone donate one please for this experiment????
Thats okay, I probably would have tried the cats anyways. Its a learning experience..Like I said, I have the waiver. But I am still wondering if there is something else wrong, because its really rich.. BUT now I have the luxury of time to figure it out... Plus I can save the money I didnt have for a rebuild kit!!! I figure if I am gonna take it apart, I might as well do a nice job!

Rat
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Old Feb 27, 2002 | 11:32 PM
  #30  
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From: Hood River oregon
Originally posted by Six Rotors
The switch is located at the bottom driver's side of the radiator.To test it simply drive your car until it is up to normal operating temperature,pull the wires off the switch terminals and test the terminals for continuity.If you do not have continuity the switch is NFG and should be replaced.This is done by simply screwing the switch out(it is a "dry" switch and there is no need to drain the radiator).If this switch is NFG you will get virtually no air to the ports or the cat because the relief valve WILL NOT close.This may explain why the split air line had little flow when you tested it.
DUH!! I know that switch!! I must have had a brain fart or something...So at operating temps, there should be total continuity? No resistance whatsoever??
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 05:19 AM
  #31  
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I am suprised it didn't pass with alchohol, not so much the other ones.... What did you use, and how much to how much gas? Methyl hydrate works great, and can be used in great amounts (or ratio level without doing any damage. It makes good fuel, but it has a different a/f ratio and is way hard on the rubber parts in the stock fuel system. And its more expensive.
Sean Cathcart
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 05:54 AM
  #32  
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That was a generous offer by Kabooski. Very reasonable.
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 09:15 AM
  #33  
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From: Hood River oregon
Originally posted by HAILERS
That was a generous offer by Kabooski. Very reasonable.
I took him up on it, but I did it by Hotmail...But you are right, it is...
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 09:17 AM
  #34  
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From: Hood River oregon
Originally posted by scathcart
I am suprised it didn't pass with alchohol, not so much the other ones.... What did you use, and how much to how much gas? Methyl hydrate works great, and can be used in great amounts (or ratio level without doing any damage. It makes good fuel, but it has a different a/f ratio and is way hard on the rubber parts in the stock fuel system. And its more expensive.
Sean Cathcart
Lessee...I ran 1/4 tank with almost 6 bottles of Isopropyl Alcohol before I lost my nerve. Seemed to clean but I am NOT trying to blow up my motor. Methyl Hydrate? I dont know what/where to get that. Also, I notice that nobody has posted suggested Fuel:Alcohol ratios here. Anyone been experimenting?
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 04:57 PM
  #35  
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From: Pluto
Re switch--yes total continuity.In our part of the world the connectors are often corroded out which is also a problem.
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 05:28 PM
  #36  
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Thanks Six ROtors, I will be checking that soon..
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 06:24 PM
  #37  
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hehehe I just passed emission today.

Tested Max. allow in the state
HC 22.5 168.0
CO 0.0 1.08
NO 28.7 1208.0

Did it today after work at Norwich, CT. Car had 158839 miles when it rolled onto the dyno. I tested it 2 years ago on March 8th with 76500 miles

Tested Max. allow in the state
HC 21.2 168.0
CO 0.0 1.08
NO 84.5 1208.0


So as you can tell, milage dont make that much of a difference. Oh yeah car is a little diffferent. My car was bone stock 2 years ago. Now it has a 3 day old Bonez cat, RB y pipe and mufflers.
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 07:36 PM
  #38  
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From: Hood River oregon
Originally posted by tmak26b
hehehe I just passed emission today.

Tested Max. allow in the state
HC 22.5 168.0
CO 0.0 1.08
NO 28.7 1208.0

Did it today after work at Norwich, CT. Car had 158839 miles when it rolled onto the dyno. I tested it 2 years ago on March 8th with 76500 miles

Tested Max. allow in the state
HC 21.2 168.0
CO 0.0 1.08
NO 84.5 1208.0


So as you can tell, milage dont make that much of a difference. Oh yeah car is a little diffferent. My car was bone stock 2 years ago. Now it has a 3 day old Bonez cat, RB y pipe and mufflers.
OH you are just TRYING to **** me off now......
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 07:51 PM
  #39  
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hehehe sorry. Anyway to help you out. Did you make sure your cat is good, your EGR valve is clean, your plugs are new, your wires are new and firing correctly? I remember this guy wouldnt pass because one of the igniter wasnt firing. Try changing all the fuel filters and fluid too. Or hell, slap your VIN on my car and try
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 08:07 PM
  #40  
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TMAK26B.......He did all of the above. His problem is some JERKOFF put his engine together wrong. They put the forward rotor housing where the rear rotor housing goes and vice versa. The results are that the PORT AIR has no means to mix with the exaust of the rotors. It appears he'll never pass emissions until the deed is undone, or he finds a work around. There are many JERK OFFS OUT THERE, that think the front and rear rotor housings are the same. I think I see a way out for him. I think(can't prove yet) that if he bores four holes into his exaust manifold to match the four half inch holes in the rotor housings on the exaust side of the engine, that, that act will allow the PORT AIR to exit into his exaust stream, maybe, just maybe allowing enough fresh air to pass emissions. To see what the results are he can monitor his 02 sensor at idle prior to the drilling and after the drilling, to see if the reading drops dramaticaly after the bore job. He has nothing to lose except a days worth of work drilling the manifold and the holes in the exaust gasket to match the holes. Comprende???????

Last edited by HAILERS; Feb 28, 2002 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 08:11 PM
  #41  
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If that is the case, keep going for prayer shots. see if you could get it....
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 08:31 PM
  #42  
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Originally posted by HAILERS
TMAK26B.......He did all of the above. His problem is some JERKOFF put his engine together wrong. They put the forward rotor housing where the rear rotor housing goes and vice versa. The results are that the PORT AIR has no means to mix with the exaust of the rotors.
Why doesn't he try and flip the exhaust manifold to engine gasket backwards?



-Ted
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 09:53 PM
  #43  
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Originally posted by tmak26b
hehehe sorry. Anyway to help you out. Did you make sure your cat is good, your EGR valve is clean, your plugs are new, your wires are new and firing correctly? I remember this guy wouldnt pass because one of the igniter wasnt firing. Try changing all the fuel filters and fluid too. Or hell, slap your VIN on my car and try
Oh thats okay..I have a pretty good sense of humor...
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 09:54 PM
  #44  
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Originally posted by RETed

Why doesn't he try and flip the exhaust manifold to engine gasket backwards?



-Ted
I dont think that would work....HAILERS?? I am trying to picture this, but I dont think that the ACV ports will line up.
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 10:02 PM
  #45  
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It doesn't because that port is for exhaust gas to the EGR valve..
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 10:03 PM
  #46  
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From: Hood River oregon
Originally posted by tmak26b
If that is the case, keep going for prayer shots. see if you could get it....
Bottom line is, I got a one year waiver, courtesy of the good ol state of Arizona...That gives me PLENTY of time to remove the motor, after I am done having fun and saving money. This has been a learning experience and a half... I still think that there is something else wrong, but I am gonna have to solve that by process of elimination. I BARELY even qualified for a waiver. In order to get one, you have to be under TWICE the legal limit. I was under with alcohol, and split air.

If I could give anyone some helpful advice, it would be to THOUROUGLY INSPECT YOUR MOTOR, after a rebuild. And get it done by a reputable company. If it werent for HAILERS and Six Rotors, I would still be pulling my hair out.

Plus, next weekend I get to pick up my new 87 2+2!!!

Rat
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 10:05 PM
  #47  
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And I am definately still running way too rich...Its started to flood now....Damn glad I put the fuel cutoff switch in...

Rat
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 01:44 AM
  #48  
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J-rat, split air solenoid is toward the firewall, kind of behind the swithing valve. It has a little metal piston on it. If this valve is not turned on, there will be minimal air flow to split air, because the port is sealed by it. Try it with the piston removed, you should get airflow.

Irv, Keith's dad
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 02:00 AM
  #49  
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Your air control valve can also be modified to to give down stream air all the time. The best way to do this is have two valves- one modified and one stock. When it comes time for your smog test put on the mod valve with a new cat ($200.00) bolt on. Then after the test put on a block off plate where th a.c.v. was and take off
the air pump belt and put a pulsator in place of the cat and save it for next time. THis will also work with headers.
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 04:50 AM
  #50  
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SIX ROTORS.....It WILL work because the rotor housings have been swapped. That means although the port air is now trapped in the rear part of the rear housing and the front part of the front housing, its only because there is no out let at those points. The half inch hole in those specific areas is coverd by the exaust gasket and the lack of a similar half inch hole in the exaust manifold. If a half inch hole was bored in the exaust gasket and the exaust manifod at those points, then the air will flow from the acv into the exaust stream ... I will concede that I was wrong when I said bore four holes. The two middle holes, due to the swapping of the housings, have no path to the acv. By the way, I'm cheating on you guys. I have a spare engine houusings sitting on top of my washing machine and I can SEE the holes for the acv/egr. Note that the path for the EGR is now not the single half inch hole in the fwd end of the rear rotor housing but the path to the EGR is now both diffuser in the exaust ports plus the half inch hole in the front of the rear rotor housing. Grab a couple of rotor housings and swap places with them and put a middle housing in the center and you will see what alll the above gibberish is about. Do it. Take that exaust manifold off with the gasket. Drill into the manifold at the two out board half inch holes plus into the gasket. Tell you what. I'm swapping my Racing BEat exaust back onto the car this weekend, so I won't need my exaust manifold for a year. If I determine that there is enough material there to drill the two half inch holes, and do drill them, will you pay for the shipping charges and let me have your old manifold back if it works. I don't wanna pay any shipping cost either way.
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