Okay, I have a really big problem here. I need to find a regular catalytic converter with the split air pipe. I have a intake manifold that has no air control valve or anything, and the hole where the air control valve(the small disc looking thing) goes I am assuming is JB welded. Now the holes however where the actuators are -- have been connected with somekind of coat hanger running across straight perpendicular to the other actuator location I assume ? -- It's said to be giving me less torque more top end. I don't know if this is true, but I am trying to get back to OEM settings as much as possible. I know if I do a tune up it still isn't going to work.

Questions:

Do I have to change the Intake manifold, and get the air control valve with the check air valve ?

For the Catalytic converter: Can I buy it at like advanced, or auto zone to get the split air pipe that is attached with bolts to the catalytic converter, because i need the split air solenoid valve connected to a hose.

I went up to a guy, but it really confused the hell out of me. I never worked on rotary motors before, and I am taking the initiative to learn...

So the split air solenoid valve is connected to a split air pipe, now the check valve is connected to a hose which is connected where ? Please help me out with this.

I apologize for not having up pictures of my description. I only had the chance to look at the motor once, because I just bought the car today. I will have pictures up tomorrow definently to show you guys what I mean by all of this.

 

You can get a block off plate for the air control valve, he probably has the six ports wired open.

 

But I still need a catalytic converter though right ? Will I be able to pass emissions with the block off plate ? It's sealed up with JB Weld. I'll try to post up pictures of such description.

It backfires like crazy ... almost like a "Popapop."

 

Im trying to figure out if I need the no.1 pre-converter, and then the no. 2 pre converter, or just the main converter with the split pipe. I can't pass emissions without a split pipe right ?

 

What year is your car? (will help determine if your 5/6 ports run off airpump or exhaust backpressure)

The actuators are your 5th & 6th ports. You want those closed and have them open up around 3200-3600rpm..about the same time your secondary fuel injectors kick in i believe.

The split air pipe gets fed fresh air from the ACV "air control valve" which gets it's air from the air pump.

pictures will help alot

 

No problem, I got you guys covered tommorow so we can figure this issue out.

 

Wooops, accidently logged in on my old user name. Sorry. I will set up pictures tommorow to show you what I mean.

The car is a 1986.

 

Well if its an S4 then the 5 & 6 ports run off of exhaust backpressure STOCK. You can get them to run off of the air pump though, if need be

 

For emissions, You'll most likely need to have the air pump, Air Control Valve, and just a main cat (the pre-cats are more to reduce emissions while warming up). Get the split air pipe from a junkyard to connect the back of the intake manifold (it has a passage coming from the air pump) to the main cat. Make sure the one way check valve on the split air pipe works one way only. The split-air pipe has a small pipe coming off of it before the check valve. A hose connected to it sends back pressure to the 6PI actuators to open them. If you have a stock exhaust (enough backpressure) and the actuators aren't leaking, the rods and auxiliary valves aren't binding, you'll have the system working.

Sounds like the owner knew a little, but not a lot. Wiring them open gives you the stock power at high RPM, but will kill the low end. Ask me how I know...

Edit: About your backfiring... The ACV has a built in AAV (anti-afterburn valve), to reduce backfiring. If you have no cats, this will also make it worse.

 

Yeah...? At the end of the split air pipe, there is a valve or no? and .. does it connect to the manifold or a hose that is linked with the manifold ? It's driving me insane.

I'll have pictures up in about 2-3 hours today.

 

There is a one-way check valve near the beginning of the split-air pipe to prevent exhaust gases from going forward to the air pump. There is a hose between the rear of the intake manifold and split-air pipe. Also, if you have to go with no split-air pipe, you want that rear manifold nipple closed off.

 

Page 4A-4 of the free, online, FSM.

Also the Parts Fische, page 1-L14 of the Chassis section of the series four. Free and online *somewhere*.

Plus all the expunged jpgs that have been attached to posts at this site over the last year, that showed the split air pipe and it's check valve. They're out there in outerspace, but rest assured, the pictures of gaudy wheels and fuzzy dice are still there with all the other moronic items they Never purge. Something like that.

 

Okay, here -- some pictures might be in favor of helping me explain my problem more accurate.

Engine shot:


Here is the ugly monster. The JB Weld.


Picture of the air Pump.


Now where does that opening connect to ? -- Does the air pump go towards the air control valve in a big hose or something ?


Now I see that this still air pipe is connected to the still pipe solenoid valve right with the hose attached to it, can't really see it good but here is the picture:

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...1&d=1182726366

 

Thanks. I'll look back if I find myself in anymore trouble.

I do need to get a different intake manifold, right ?

 

Second to last picture: That nipple gets a hose that goes b/t there and the rear of the air filter housing. Air pump feed nipple.

There should be another large nipple on the pumps aft end. IT goes to the large nipple on the top/front of the ACV. That is the pumps output hose.

On the back of the lower intake manifold, there is a large nipple, about the size of the ones in your picture. That large nipple gets a hose that's about six inches long. The other end of that hose connects to the split air pipe. Now at that end of the split air pipe, there should be a mushroom looking checkvalve on the split air pipe. Do you have a mushroom looking outfit on that end of your split air pipe???

That would be ITEM B in this picture: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...1&d=1182726366

ITEM A in that picture is TRYING to show a small metal nipple welded to the split air pipe. That small nipple is the pressure feed to the auxillary port actuators.

 

The Ugly Monster/JB Weld is where the ACV would have bolted on the manifold. Oppps, missing in action.

 

Yes, I do have the check valve and the Check Valve Mushroom type Object is connected to a hose that leads somewhere, I haven't looked yet where. Im just concerned where does the hose from the air pump nipple connect to, to the one to the ACV valve nipple ? So there is the 4-6" inch hose connected from the Air Pump nipple to the ACV Valve. Right ?

 

O.K. that last picture is impossible for me to decipher.

The hose from the rear (outlet) of the air pump is very short and connects to the front of the (missing) ACV.

Found an old thread of mine...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...nsor+reference

See picture in post #2 of that thread. It shows my ACV, but keep in mind I don't have the silencer hose (that goes to atmosphere) that exits toward the shock tower.

BTW One of your pics. above shows the corner of your factory filter housing. At the back of that is a nipple that should have a hose going to the air pump inlet.

Keep the questions coming...

 

BTW, that intake manifold on your car is done. Get a new one, along with the other parts, and make sure the actuators (which you don't have) for the 6PI hold pressure and that the rods they turn on the intake manifold turn freely. Also make sure the auxiliary valves aren't seized.

 

The airpump has two large nipples. The one towards the front is the intake and connects to the airfilter assy with a large hose.

The airpumps rear most nipple is the outlet. It gets a large hose and connects to the ACV's large nipple on the top/front of the ACV.

The ACV also has a large nipple on it's bottom side. This does NOT connect to the airpump.

 

This nipple on the bottom is the one i referred to going to the silencer hose. This is the air relief hose. When the ECU does not send air pump air to the exhaust port or split air pipe (to the cat), it dumps air to this relief pipe, to the silencer assembly to quiet it down and send it outside. It runs to the front and dumps the air under the front pass. headlight. You may still have part of this hose/silencer assembly. Take a pic underneath the air filter near the frame rail so we can check.

 

BTW, have you got the FSM yet? Here's a pic., worth a thousand words.

 

Alright, I'll take pictures and send them in on the way.

 

You're saying that the AAV increases backfiring if the split air pipe is still connected to a gutted cat?