ImprezedRS

Ok so I was reading how changing your exhaust and everthing could affect the 6 Ports?

I read the Howto on the FC3S(sp?) webpage of different ways to make them work.

Well I was thinking of using 2 sellonoids, like the ones used on trunk poppers and shaved door poppers.

Well i don't think you would need anything more than say like a 10lb selonoid. There roughly I think about $20 each or so depending what brand and were you get them. I have the AutoLoc ones on my Subaru for the shaved door handles and I think i will use these since there really beefy and can handle a lot of heat.

So heres my idea use 2 selonoids and wire them up with a relay to a RPM sitch activator like ones for Shift lights and stuff, I think I have seen some for around $40 or so. Then make a mount that the selonoids replace the stock actuators. Then it should be fine and rpm adjustable.

I think i will give this a shot some time when i get some money. But right now its mainly just a thought.

Oh I was wondering if anyone had this idea before or have actually done it already?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Have you given this thread a look? https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ht=fully+blown

I used a rpm switch and a relay to switch my air compressor on. It's bullet proof and works 'til this day.

Icemark

Its been tried before. All have fallen to failure in any sort on long term use.

The problem is with duty cycle. Most of those door pop or trunk pop solenoids are just not able to activate hundreds of times in a single drive (next time you drive, just try and count the times you exceed 3800 RPM and how long you do it) without over heating. In addition the heat of the engine compartment is very hard on any sort of electronics.

If you could find a electronic solenoid that would be capable of activating the circuit and provide reasonable long term durabilty (15K-20K mileage min) the cost would be astronomical.

The only systems that have worked okay is using either the air pump, or an additional electric air pump like a cadilac suspension pump.

rx7raca

well what if u can keep it cool? would it last longer then?
what if u provide it with cool air from the outside...

ImprezedRS

Well I tested out my door poppers before i installed them I hooke dit up to my turn signals so that it would pop ever other second or so and let it do that for an hour, came back out later and it was still going, even though it was hot as hell, it kept on going. Plus there lifetime warrentied

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I still can't understand why anyone even bothers with an electronic actuation setup, it cost how many more times than using the airpump, and is proven less effective anyway. I just don't get it.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

It seems to have worked for me...and It's been well over a year now.

Icemark

try it and prove me wrong.. doesn't matter to me. You asked I told you.

And I have to agree with sonic... I don't see the need. I mean is this just to remove the factory air pump??? Not to knock silver, because his was done well it appears, but half the time when an entra motor set up or air pump set up is done, it weighs more than the factory air pump and is not as reliable.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

I havent done the mod yet, but for me its not so much removing the airpump, but ditching the ACV that is most desirable. However, I have an S5, so that complicates matters.

I'm willing to keep the Airpump as long as the ACV goes bye bye.

Any ideas?

Icemark

why ditch the ACV... I don't get this. Do you think that you are getting more HP???

Maybe it's because you think the car will be simpler to work on (oh wow, you removed two valves and a couple of hoses)...

Zach McAfee

I got pretty deep into it with servos, but I've stopped considering the heat damage to the servos. I still have all the circuit schematics and servos spread across the dining room table.
Search and you'll find my thread and plenty of others.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

No, i dont think I'm getting more hp.

Yes, I think the car is simpler to work on w/o the ACV. Plus, its a weak link, and if I can get rid of a weak link, then the system as a whole is more reliable.

wozzoom

You just have to love how "6-port actuation" has become one of those threads that never die.

My .02 cents: There are about 10 different ways to actually operate the stock phnematic 6-port / VDI actuators. But one thing that no one has ever come up with in all these years is a replacement for the stock actuator. Why? Because there really is no need. Why go through the trouble of hooking up an electrical actautor when the stock phnematic actuator is so bullet proof? The new renesis engine is still using these same type actuators!

As for building an ADJUSTABLE phnematic system...this is a worthy cause! My dyno results have shown that on my ported S5 block, my 6-ports and VDI were opening way to early. I lost ~10 RWHP at 3800 RPM when the 6-ports opened. I had to re-adjust my RPM switches and I now have the 6 ports opening around 4800 and my VDI at 5500 for a smooth power curve.

ImprezedRS

Well I don't know what I'm going to do about this