zeromage428

So my buddy and I decided to check up on the 88 SE since we both had the day off.

lets say...omg i think its time we are going to have to learn how the electrical system works, previous owner had put in a brand new black dashboard in, but not knowing what connector goes where...

so this is what we got to at this point...

PROBLEM!!!
Main and Room 7.5A fuses blow after a couple of seconds of driving

what we know of what is happening

S5 lights are on the car, driver Reverse light doesnt come on

Turn signals Dont work with current switch, will try to get a replacement and test it with that (this is for both front side markers and in TL)

That little flap that directs the air from the AC vent behind the dash is constantly switching from open to close, open to close, open to close, and never stops. (this is with current weather logicon thingy, will try to get a replacement n test it)

The Tach in the cluster is either busted...or something within the unit itself is shorting out

OP, Volt, gas, gauges are working, dont really know if the water temp gauge is working, we all know they are a POS!!!...will buy replacemnt gauges/ricer pods from autozone for the time being

WE THOUGHT IT WAS AN ALARM, but somehow the alarm is just connected to a pair of aftermarket fog lights, so when we use the clicker, 1 button turns it on, and the other 1 button turns the lights off...no sound cuz there is no speaker...wtf...doesnt seem to be connecting to any of the harness or fuses

oh yeh, when we replaced the fuses initially, the idiot cluster lights came on for water temp overheat, ehxaust over heat, hatch...but this was with the key not in the ignition module...

so when we connected the speedo cable to see if the mph was broken, it wasnt...or seems isnt, we brought it up to 20mph and the needle had moved.

I know how to fix this, i just need to not be lazy and find the sensor for it, but the car's idle starts to surge like it wants to cut off while the car is in gear...but it drives fine...well...actually, i dont think we tried this after we replaced the fuses...keep this in mind tho

SOMETHING ELSE I NOTICED...

It seems there was a sensor that was either on fire...or correded, but it connects to the rest of the engines wiring harness, the sensor is near the actuators for the 5th n 6th ports. it was the left most sensor on that whole unit.

Next tuesday is my next day off to help work on it, and want to get it running by then. what are your opinions??

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

I'd start unplugging anything you don't need, just for testing, like the tail lights, logicon, idiot lights, fog lights, stereo, etc. Must be a short somewhere.

Now the fact that the idiot lights are turning on is a real mystery, but it could be some shorting inside the idiot light cluster.

zeromage428

yeh i guess that sounds reasonable

so i should just disconnect most of the extras, drive around for a few, and progressively figure out which one blows the 7.5A fuses.

does anyone else have a hard time finding JUST 7.5A fuses...advanced auto parts sells 1 in a pack of 6 wiht 5 other fuses...and it costs 4$ wtf...

iluvmy3rdgen

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-5-A...spagenameZWDVW

Icemark

Probably have something aftermarket hooked up and shorting out.

Probably a bad or disconnected reverse light switch

Doubtful that it is the switch. S4 versions almost never fail. In fact I have only seen one bad one in 20 years of working on these cars.

And which is it... no turn signals or no parking lights, or neither? The parking lights and turn signals have nothing to do with each other.

Did you read the FAQ for FC sticky thread? It covers not having the parking lights.

Again more than likely related to a blown fuse than a bad part. If it is moving then the Logicon is fine.

if the main fuse is blown the trailing coils will not work, which means the tach won't work.

Actually the S4 water temp gauge as well as the other S4 gauges are very accurate. Since you have already proven you are way way over your head in electrical troubleshooting; it only scares me further that you want to try and wire aftermarket gauges in.

so someone has hacked out part of the alarm... probably the same person that shorted the wiring or left disconnected wires bare.

All the idiot lights should come on if the key is on, but the car is not running.

and that has what??? to do with the electrical issues???

sounds like the TPS is out of adjustment

There are no sensors there. Probably the Port Air control solenoid on the ACV. If you don't know the difference between sensors and solenoids your probably shouldn't be working on the electrical system of a car.

And your bump has been removed. Bumps are forbidden here in the 2nd gen technical section.

zeromage428

alright

A/C flaps decided to start working, idk if this happend after we found 2 grounds that werent in use, so we grounded them, Dont know if the fan is frozen but we can hear some clicking, going to take it apart later to see what condition its in.

we have come up iwth that we are in need of a new split air valve solenoid like you said it was going to be

this is what weve come up with before testing, we are heading to a Upull it to grab some free 7.5A to see if we can eliminate some possibilities of things shorting out

with the "Room" fuse in, we get a Volt Meter, and Fuel level read out

but now, we get this when the car is off and no key in the ignition...

start the car, gauges go out, fuse dies

could our whole ignition assembly be shorting out?

and should there be an extra 13pin connector but using only 12 pins

GB/Nada/GY/GR/BR/WG
GW/G /Y /GO/BW/B*

this is on the driver side

be back in like 30minutes from raping other 7s in the junkyard
i guess i could check on how **** is connected on htem also