K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

ok, my car has a few electrical issues....number 1 is the starter.

when i go to start it normally i just get a solid "CLICK" and nothing else, i have to bump it a few times "CLICK CLICK CLICK *starts*" sometimes it takes 0 clicks, sometimes it takes 20. if i hold the key forward i can hear a very slight humming sound.

ive tried replacing the starter, no dice. replaced the signal connector on the starter, still no change. on a hunch im going to try another battery, but i really think the problem lies elsewhere.


problem number 2...my volt meter only reads 12V when the car is running, and around 10 with it off. at the battery im seeing 14 volts running and 12.4 with it off. i tested my alternator and its output is around 40amps, with a good diode pattern.

whenever i do something in the car that requires electricity everything bogs down! i can make the car stall by trying to roll both windows up or down. when i press my brake pedal at night the power draw from the tail lights is enough to dim my headlights and instrument cluster. also i can see my volt meter take a good dive when i use electricals like the windows, will dip down to 9 volts or so on the dash.

what could be causing such weak power flow between my charging system and the interior of the car? my main fuse was really shitty looking(plastic broken off, metal exposed) so i replaced it but no change.

Icemark

Sounds like the two problems are related.

I'd first be looking at the condition of the battery cables and connections. Often times corrosion between the terminal and post of the battery can cause reduced voltage and starting issues.

The battery voltage is low (it should be 12.6 at the battery while off and 14.4 when the engine is running. If you are getting a steady 40 amps (normal is about 35 amps) then it is telling me you have a voltage loss problem or the alt is dieing. Peak output should be around 70 amps, and with your foot on the brake, the headlights on, and the defroster on at 3000 RPM you should see around 70 amps output.

The fact that you are only seeing 9 volts (and I am assuming around 45 amps) at peak load, sure looks like there is an issue with alt output.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

i work at an autoparts store so it wont hurt me too much to toss a reman alt on and see how that goes.

whatever is going on my battery sees correct voltage and amerpage. but nothing INSIDE the car does.

Stock206

Do a voltage drop between the B+ terminal on the alternator and the positive battery post. Should be below 0.5v. Then take alternator to a Schucks or Kragen to do a load test on the Alternator.

HAILERS

*****the key forward i can hear a very slight humming sound******* key HELD to START causes the fuel pump to work.

*********times "CLICK CLICK CLICK ********************this is an ignition switch problem. The contacts in the switch can't/won't carry enough current to engage the starter. I can prove this to you if you will pull the trail coil assy up......find the bright BLUE jumper plug on a connector there..........remove the BLUE jumper and lay it to the side...........Jumper 12vdc from the batt positive post to the Black/White wire in the connector. The starter will most likely work each and every time you put the batt voltage to that black/white wire. If so, that Proves the ignition switch is the bad actor.

If you have theft protection.......forget the above paragraph. There's another method.

The above applies IF you KNOW the battery cables are good. You can prove the cables are good by turning the headlights on. Watch the lights as you go to START. If it clicks but does not start, and the lights stay bright..........cables are good.