Electrical gauge or Mechanical gauge?
#1
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Electrical gauge or Mechanical gauge?
Just about to order some gauges and can't decide between an electrical gauge or mechanical gauge.
If I get the electrical gauge, it would be the following: Price tag $150-200
http://www.nippon-seiki.co.jp/defish...rg/rg_top.html
If I get the mechanical gauge, it would be the following: Price tag $65-85
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...gid=3443&sid=4
Downsides of mechanical? Downsides of electrical? This car would be a dd.
If I get the electrical gauge, it would be the following: Price tag $150-200
http://www.nippon-seiki.co.jp/defish...rg/rg_top.html
If I get the mechanical gauge, it would be the following: Price tag $65-85
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...gid=3443&sid=4
Downsides of mechanical? Downsides of electrical? This car would be a dd.
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Eventually I'll be getting oil pressure and temperature and all that. For autometer apparently only the boost gauge is cheap, all the rest of the gauges from cobalt are equal to the defi. Might as well go for the defi.
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The down side of Mechanical Gauges is that you have to Run a Line of whatever(oil or Coolant) to the Gauge.Not alot of guys would like that Stuff inside the Cabin,If that hose decided to let go.Electrical Gauges,although More Money,are a better Alternative to the Liquids in the Cabin Scenario.Both types work Fairly well,But there is obvious a Price difference from Mechanical to Electrical,It comes down to Cost and Taste,really..
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The down side of Mechanical Gauges is that you have to Run a Line of whatever(oil or Coolant) to the Gauge.Not alot of guys would like that Stuff inside the Cabin,If that hose decided to let go.Electrical Gauges,although More Money,are a better Alternative to the Liquids in the Cabin Scenario.Both types work Fairly well,But there is obvious a Price difference from Mechanical to Electrical,It comes down to Cost and Taste,really..
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#8
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Not only is there the fluid in the cabin, you've also got to worry about how to route the fluid there, through small capillary tubes and the like, which aren't as forgiving as wires, which are very easy to route.
Electrical gauges are the way to go. If cost is a concern, then you should look into VDO gauges, they're quite inexpensive, but are good quality and are OEM in things like Porsches and BMW's. They don't do full sweep, but they're still very good.
Electrical gauges are the way to go. If cost is a concern, then you should look into VDO gauges, they're quite inexpensive, but are good quality and are OEM in things like Porsches and BMW's. They don't do full sweep, but they're still very good.
#9
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Personal experiences generally point to a better accuracy than Autometer.....
anyways, as said, mechanical gauges risk leaks, and running lines with fluid (say if there were a coolant line that leaked, or worse oil.... boy that is a mess)
Defi generally have good sensors so electric gauges would be the option. Prices are somewhat high, but reasonable (similar to prices of HKS and Greddy)
#11
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Not only is there the fluid in the cabin, you've also got to worry about how to route the fluid there, through small capillary tubes and the like, which aren't as forgiving as wires, which are very easy to route.
Electrical gauges are the way to go. If cost is a concern, then you should look into VDO gauges, they're quite inexpensive, but are good quality and are OEM in things like Porsches and BMW's. They don't do full sweep, but they're still very good.
Electrical gauges are the way to go. If cost is a concern, then you should look into VDO gauges, they're quite inexpensive, but are good quality and are OEM in things like Porsches and BMW's. They don't do full sweep, but they're still very good.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Sending Unit Included: Yes
Footnotes: 34 - Includes 3/8 in. NPT adapter/fitting.
35 - Includes 1/2 in. NPT adapter/fitting.
22 - Includes 1/8 in. NPT sender.
23 - Air-core meter movement.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Sending Unit Included: No
Notes: Sending unit not included
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Product Line: VDO Temperature Senders
Part Type: Gauge Sending Units
Part Number: VDO-323900
Sending Unit: Electrical
Sweep: 90 degree sweep
Sending Unit Thread Size: 1/8-27 NPT
Thread Adapter Sizes Included: 1/4-18 NPT, 3/8-18 NPT, 1/2-14 NPT
Thread Adapter Fittings Included: Yes
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Sending Unit, Temperature, 0-250 Degree, Kit
It really comes down to preference. I prefer a 270* sweep, especially on temps, but I don't want to spend too much money on gauges. So I put up with the tubes for the mechanical gauges.
#12
Just installed an autometer boost guage yesterday. Bought it at my local autoparts store for $63.25 inc tax. It was easy to hookup. The pressure line that goes to the guage was tiny and very easy to run through the firewall.. I ended up wrapping it with a small silicone hose.
So for the price diffrence what else could you buy for your 7?
So for the price diffrence what else could you buy for your 7?
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Ya..if you Opt out for the Mechanical type gauage and have to run the Tube into the Cabin,Get a Piece of rubber hose,which had a Inner diameter that is roughly the outer diameter of the Tube..Split it and Place it on the Tube,then just Wrap some electrical tape on it..and There ya go..Insulated against Cuts,Etc!
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http://prosportgauges.com/
i couldn't be happier with thier gauges and thier prices
i couldn't be happier with thier gauges and thier prices
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I have used and loved several autometer brand electronic gauges. No probs. Only mechanical gauge I have experience with was a boost gauge, and it leaked intermittently and was quickly discarded.
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If you ever plan on using this car for anything other than a DD. Ie Drifting and such Alot of places (well here in PA) dont allow you to have Mechanical bringing flameable liquids into the cabin for safety reasons. Its enough for me to think about hm...... People on the streets suck driving 90% of the time anyway..... do I want to run a line of oil straight to my body in case of nice accident??? YES THATS A GREAT IDEA LOL... Im not being smart or anything just joking around... but thats How I always looked at it, Ya it might save you a couple bucks, and hey you may NEVER get in an accident or anything but there is def more positives for electrical such as no broken line bringing fluid into the cabin and the safety issue as well..... good luck with whatever you decide bc in the end it will be your decision anyway......
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I have mechanical gauges
after owning them, installing them, and having run work around the coolent temp and oil presure lines under the dash and in the engine bay, i rewally wish i had electric's
they will be for sale soon
after owning them, installing them, and having run work around the coolent temp and oil presure lines under the dash and in the engine bay, i rewally wish i had electric's
they will be for sale soon
#20
i have 2 mechanical boost guages and 2 digital boost gauges in my car.
1. Standard instrument cluster has a mech one.
2. A aftermarket mech one on a pillar,which i am removing.
3. A digiatal one built into my elec boost controller.
4. A digital one built into my aftermarket ecu dash unit.
The digital ones are more accurate.
1. Standard instrument cluster has a mech one.
2. A aftermarket mech one on a pillar,which i am removing.
3. A digiatal one built into my elec boost controller.
4. A digital one built into my aftermarket ecu dash unit.
The digital ones are more accurate.
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