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Electrical demon portal to H3LL. HELP!

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Old 11-27-08, 11:07 PM
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Electrical demon portal to H3LL. HELP!

First of all I would direct you to my old thread which has died gracefully and contains all the info leading up to my NEW electrical fiasco: HERE

So I was replacing my logicon for the 3rd time and I finally plugged that retarded connector way in the back of the dash up by the windshield in (anybody who has replaced their logicon knows which one) and I turn the thing on and... no blower AGAIN. 3 logicons, and I've tested the blower fan which works when hooked up to a battery, but it almost never works in the car. It used to SOMETIMES work if I moved the fan speed from off to full a bunch of times, but not anymore.

All three logicons do the exact same thing though, when I try to turn the fan speed up I can hear a relay clicking under the glove box. So tonight I decide to track that relay down. I pull out the smaller relay next to the one that was clicking and in my angry, sleep deprived, frustrated state of mind decided to just start shorting wires together to see if i could get the fan to turn on. What I managed to accomplish was by shorting the (I think) green/black wire with the wire next to it (can't recall which one it was, but it was next to the green/black one) I shorted out my gauge cluster. so now the only gauge that works is the speedo because it's manually driven. This I completely deserved for being a retard.

I've just about had it, so with the logicon still hanging out of the dash I go to drive to my friends house and smash the pedal down assuming I'll hit the 3800rpm fuel cut mentioned in the last thread. HOWEVER, the fuel cut is GONE!

so my question to you electrical gurus out there is this: How do I fix my gauge cluster, how can I get my blower to work(it's cold here!), and how did I fix my fuel cut?

PS: I think my fuel cut may still exist, but at 6k rpm instead. I can't rev to the buzzer, but maybe that's shorted too. My safc says I'm hitting 6krpm but i also think my tps is shot, and the safc is off by about 100rpms at idle so who knows, that may be due to other things though, and it's hard to verify without a tach.

also, sorry for the monster post, but this takes a little explaining.
Old 11-28-08, 09:22 AM
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Do you have the shop manual wiring diagrams?
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