From the batter.

There needs to be one from the + to starter, and from the + to the side of the fuse box that faces away from the strut tower. Right?

Then, there needs to be a connection from the - on the battery to one of the bolts that holds the starter on, and then a connection from the - on the battery to the chassis. If I replaced the stock wiring with new, will 10 gauge wire be enough to run from the - on the battery to the chassis? I already have a 2 gauge wire running to the starter bolt, and planned on running a 10 gauge to the chassis.

Also, there needs to be a connection from the alternator (connection with boot covering it) to the side of the fuse box facing the strut tower. Also, there is a connection that runs from that same bolt (side of fuse box facing strut tower) to another part of the fuse box.

Are these all correct? I have 2 gauge copper wire running from the battery terminals to the starter / starter bolt. I planned on running 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the bolt on the fuse box, and from the - on the battery terminal to the chassis.

Thanks guys. Almost done with this wiring project.

 

Since you don't have far to go, why not just use bigger wire? We all know that the factory grounds are pretty weak on FCs anyway, and they used 6 AWG. Unless that extra pound of weight is going to throw off your weight distribution, I recommend a 6 AWG wire or larger to the strut tower and at smallest a 2 AWG to the starter mounting bolt.

I am just basing this on the stock wiring and not necessarily on having done a rewiring myself.

 

I did that. I went and bought 6 awg to go to the strut tower. And 2 awg going to the starter.

I used 10 awg going from the alternator to the fuse box.

Hopefully everything starts...

 

Yes.

Yes.

No. The main chassis ground needs to be heavy gauge. 4 AWG or 2AWG.

Yes.

You need thicker wire here. 8 AWG at the thinnest.