Hey all,

Car is a 1987 S5 turbo (Jap import)

So I have been trying to figure this out and done a fair bit of searching online.

My headlights work - no tails, no gauge lights and the fuse is intact. From what I read I took the headlight switch out and looked at the loom. Nothing burnt out so I figure its the PCB on the switch or a dirty connection on the switch.

Does anyone have the pictures for this.... https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...switch-383384/

or even a decent write up with pics?

I remember the last time I started it the fuel/water temp/oil pressure gauges were not functioning and just reading minimum. It used to blow the fuse at full throttle and high RPM which was frustrating.



Also my fuel relay clicks constantly when the key is turned on, not sure if that is an issue but yea... it happens.


And finally, my brakes.

Fronts wouldn't bleed so looked at the BMC which was rooted so got it rebuilt. With the new one there is still hardly any fluid reaching the front. I'm unable to undo the hoses where it comes through into the engine bay (only tried LF) but its the same amount of fluid before the caliper. Just curious as is it possible that there is a ton of air stuck in the lines or is there likely to be a blockage? I checked and there are no pinched lines. When bleeding I was getting a fraction of the fluid that I was getting in the back (almost nothing).

Car has been sitting for around 5 years. I'm going to get the front calipers rebuilt but I'm worried that won't solve it.


At this stage I'm sick of this thing being off the road so just want to get it drive-able (and safe).

Any help would be much appreciated, I can provide pictures if needed.

Thanks

 

W/key to on, the Brown wire in the plug should have 12 volts and not a low reading of a few volts or so. What does yours read? If the Brown wire has low voltage then jumper a wire from the solid Black wire located on the bottom row far left position to the Brown wire on the same row far right position and w/key to on listen to the relay to determine if the clicking stops w/key to on.

 

I just did a write-up last week.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...witch-1077202/

 

No brown wire on the plug, just to clarify it is the fuel pump resistor relay.
It didn't seem to be clicking after unplugging and plugging in again.

Photo attached of the item, there is a random brown with blue stripe wire next to it plugged into nothing... *sigh*

 

oh, picture

 

That Brown with blue wire goes to the Low level coolant sensor on top of the stock radiator.
If the sensor is not connected then the "alarm" will go off inside the car and the light on the Center console "idiot light cluster" will go off.
IF for some reason the wire is busted at the sensor(this is common as the sensor is made really crappy..haha!) you can TEMPORARILY stop the alarm by grounding the Harness side of the wire to the frame/chassis of the car.
*The downside to grounding the wire out is that you will no longer have any warning about coolant level.

 

Re: brakes

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Some of them come with little hoses to attach to the MC and route into the reservoir. Google or YouTube "Master cylinder bench bleeding". Sounds like a lot of air in the system. Use a vacuum brake bleeder or a pressure bleeder (rent/borrow/buy but not very cheap) at each caliper, going in the order (on a LHD car) right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Basically, going farthest to closest to the MC.

 

With a car that's been sitting, I'd consider rebuilding all the calipers SOP...just do it.
Right now, you have a lot of air in the system and that's why it won't bleed properly.
Before you get medieval on the bleed process, get the calipers done so you don't have to go back later.

After that, if you still have problems, try this...
Attach a tight fitting clear plastic tube to each calipers bleed screw. Tube should be a couple feet long and tied up so it extends above the caliper.
Fill tube halfway with fresh brake fluid and crack the bleeds open.
Let it sit overnight.
The lighter air will seek the highest opening in the system and as it escapes the fluid in the tube will enter and replace it.
Basically, it's passive bleeding.
The next day, bleed as normal and it should go pretty quickly.

 

..The front calipers can get stuck over time and I'll bet you that you haven't taken them off and tested them to see whether the pistons in the caliper move freely.
That can be a big problem,so As my Buddy is saying you need to address the fact that you need to have good parts to work with in order to have a good result.
That means rebuilding or replacing the calipers.

 

I thought you were talking about the relay under the dash. If unplugging it and replugging it took care of the clicking then perhaps you could chalk it up to a poor connection.

 

Awesome thanks for all the replies!

I'm just calling around a few shops to get the calipers rebuilt. Will keep the thread updated.

 

Check out rockauto.com. They have some FC stuff on clearance. They sent me an email.

 

Sweet got the rebuild kits today but heading away for the long weekend.

Cheers pfsantos hopefully they ship to NZ! I'll have a look.


Washed it today anyways