jimmydanny

Some electric questions to fix my car interior to make it le perfecto

Dome light. Ain't working. What can cause this, except the bulb (the round fuse-like type)

Door sensors. The one on the pass. side works, and activates both door lights (in the door), not the warning light in the warning light/clock display.
The door sensor, is this hard to fix?

Central locking pump/system ain't working. Would be easier to have this up and going, where is the pump, what should I try to look for when it isn't working?

My power steering pump/relay is making a weird ticking sound all the time. It comes from the pump, I think. It is where one of the belts is connected to a device with a oil-level rod, on the right side of the engine, seen from front of the car.

The steering column key light, doesn't work. What could cause this?

The Logicon, I need SPECIFIC directions to take it out, easiest and safest way (without breaking any plastic, which is 22 years old and very prone to cracking and crumbling).

Does my cab have an amp for the door speakers? I am not sure how this is.

Notes:
1988 Cab
S5 Motor
S4 interior harness

Jim, Norway

satch

iTrader: (1)

"Door sensors. The one on the pass. side works, and activates both door lights (in the door), not the warning light in the warning light/clock display.
The door sensor, is this hard to fix?"

Not sure what this means. Are you stating that when the passenger door is opened that both the door lights turn on but not the door warning light in the dash (the key needs to be on for the door warning light to turn on w/the door(s) open)? Or are you just stating that only the passenger door being open turns on the door lights but not the driver door and that the door warning light in the dash works fine? ( if the dash warning light works it's probably only when the passenger door is open and not the driver door. Correct?).

jimmydanny

Humm humm. Both actually. I saw the warning light work once, but normally, the red and ground light in both doors light up when the pass. door is opened, but nothing when I open my door. Nice way to prove that my pass. didn't close his door, but not useful for not chopping off my door with an SUV.

I know the jap door sensors (the push buttons hidden in rubber, sorry for bad translation from Norwegian) tend to fail in all possible ways.

jjwalker

They do tend to fail. They are just push button type sensors and you could probably get one very similar from any junk yard to replace it. Mine doesn't work sometimes and sometimes it does. The contacts just wear out and the driver side door gets opened and closed a hell of a lot more than the passenger side door.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The little rubber covered sensor is easy to remove. Do this at the driver's side and w/key to on put a ground on the Blue/White wire connected to the door sensor and see if it activates the door lights or not. If it does then the sensor is not properly connected to this Blue/White wire or the sensor is damaged. You could take the passenger sensor which you know is good and switch it to the driver side to see if it works "if" the driver side sensor works when you apply a ground to its Blue/White wire.

jimmydanny

Anything on the dome light?

satch

iTrader: (1)

First off, does it work at all? The ground wire to the light is again the Blue/White wire which is supplied by the door switch to turn this dome light on when the door is opened. Also, as I understand it the black lever on the dome light unit either adds the ground to the light or removes it. The light is supplied w/voltage on a constant basis via the Blue/Red wire which is the same wire that supplies voltage to the door lights thus this proves the fuse is good. You need to pop off the dome light cover and see if the Blue/Red wire has voltage on it as it should while the Blue/White wire is the ground. If the voltage wire has voltage then supply a ground to the part of the light that receives a ground and see if this turns the light on or not. Attempt to place the ground on the ground wire (Blue/White) as close to the bulb as possible It's possible the problem resides in the dome light lever/button/switch.

jimmydanny

I will try two things. I will take the +12V from the light to my CD-player ground, and the 12V from the CD-player to the ground of the light. If one of these doesn't work, there is a faulty switch or wire that needs to be found.

jimmydanny

What about the central locking system?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are we talking about the door locks here?

jimmydanny

Yes. As far as I know it is central locking (it locks all locks when you lock one door) on this car. I hate locking each door and the trunk manually.

satch

iTrader: (1)

On an S4 the locking system just locks the passenger side only.

jimmydanny

So if I lock the driver side, it locks the passenger too (that is atleast what I meant), but not the trunk? Or have I misunderstood everything now?

EDIT: Okay, I see now, it got power lock (as it is called apparently), on driver and pass. side doors. Mine doesn't work. Relay or fuse blown?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The only thing I'm familiar with is what's depicted in the diagram. The hatch is not involved in this system.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

To remove the Logicon:
-Remove ashtray and upper vent from the center bezel
-Undo the four (now) exposed screws to remove the bezel (two at the top, two at the bottom)
-Now you can see the screws holding the Logicon in place, remove them (four, IIRC)
-Up on the dash top, remove the cover plate and the two defroster vent bezels
-With the Logicon loose of it's mounting screws, undo the connector on it's back
-The Logicon has a long pigtail that connects at the firewall harness...you can see it in the now exposed defroster vent, disconnect it.
-Tie a long piece of string to the connector before you fish it out of the dash, leave string attached as you remove the Logicon but undo it and leave it in place as the unit is freed.
-When reinstalling, use the string to guide the long pigtail back up into the dash and its connector.
-The rest is just the reverse of the above.

jimmy_trader

iTrader: (4)

Power Door Locks: My '88 didn't have them and everything I've read says it wasn't supposed to. Maybe Norwegian cars were different. I don't think my '91 was supposed to have them but it does. (pretty nice actually) It's possible that the PO installed them, I just don't know.
Anyway, take off the inside door panel and see if it looks like this:
https://www.rx7club.com/album.php?al...ictureid=31282
The extra arm goes to the actuator and maybe it just needs adjusting.

Door Sensor: Mine would get stuck in the closed position. Pushing the button a couple times usually freed it up.

Logicon: Use the string! ^ (Works well for Side markers too.)

Door Speakers: Supplied by the Dash Unit. Only the Headrest Speakers have their own amp.

Cab: Most people on here call them Convertibles or Verts, not Cabriolets.

BTW, nice Cab; post up some pictures.
Aloha,
~j

jimmydanny

Evening guys (for me).

I still need my roadworthiness test to get done, so I have to wait for new shocks from Mazdatrix and brakes from Racingbeateurope, before I can even touch the car (if the police spots me, they take my plates). And it is 2 degrees celcius, ice on the roads, and raining. No weather for fixing cars. Also my car wont start. My one year as a wankel-owner has shown me that it is just flooded. I will change the plugs, might get better

Anyways, for the power locks, I did have the doors open, I didn't notice those, but it might be my eyes or memory. If I don't have, is it alot of hassle to get aftermarket systems (with remote, o hay) installed? It is really nice to have imo

My door sensor was stuck, and when I got that damn wire out for it, it didn't work, so I need a new one But that can't be too expensive. I still need blank parking lights in front, which costs about 250$ per piece, new in Norway. But you americans got amber parking lights, so I cant get it from you So I will get the door sensor when I get my parking lights/turn signals.

Door speakers and power locks. I got 6.5" that is bigger than the originals somehow, so I have to cut a piece of the plastic in the door away, because the membrane is touching the plastic and making funny noises which audioheads doesn't like. So I will come back to you about that

That darn dome light is still bugging me tho. But it is no stress for now, since the car aint rolling yet (my throttle wire broke, can I solder the small barrel in the end, or do I HAVE to buy a new one? I would like to temp fix it with some soldering or something.

Btw, the warning light for the door didn't work with the key in, so I guess there is some malfunctioning all over, or IF the door sensor for the warning light AND the dome light got the same fuse, but not the light in the doors themselves, there might be a fuse that I need to find and replace.

I got my new steering column cover from Ash @ Trix some days ago, before putting it back on, I would like the light there to work, so I can see where I actually put the key (sex with lights off is the same thing, go figure). Might there be something with the door sensor, warning light and this one that got some sort of connection? My wiring diagram skills aint on top, hard for me to read them sometimes :P Even tho I got one out of two years high school, electrician.

That damn power steering pump again, I know I got answers, but not clear enough. The only thing I know makes that kinda sound (fast ticking sound), is a relay. Can anyone confirm that there is a relay close to the power steering pump? I got the S5 power steering afaik, since mine is speed sensitive.

Two more to go

Extra gauges. In the center console air vent. Which way is the easiest to get the vac hose and wires through, without taking out the dash or having too much problems with it?

And, not electrical. My diff, I have asked this before (I think), any tell-tale signs on diff, axles, stubs and so on that can tell me if I got open, viscous or clutch?
And, is it the open diff the torsen from the FD fits, or is it the clutch? (that is, which housing and stubs fits the FD one, so I can drop it in my FC housing and drive away sideways)

Loads of work for you here now guys, but as the only wankel owner in a 100 mile radius, you are the only ones to run a differential diagnosis with

Jim, Norway

satch

iTrader: (1)

As I previously stated, the fact that the the door lights work proves 100% that the battery buss fuse is good which is what powers the dome light.

The fact that the dash warning light doesn't work indicates a cold solder connection on the unit or the bulb is out. All the system needs is for one door sensor to work, so since you have proved that the passenger side works then it is not a fault of the driver's door sensor that the dash warning light doesn't light up.

Again, with regards to the dome light, if you check for voltage on the Blue/Red wire for voltage, no key necessary, it will tell you the root cause of your problem as it's not that difficult to figure out.

The door locking system on an S4 only has a device to affect the passenger side only. Any other like device must be an aftermarket unit.

jimmydanny

I didnt have any power locks I think. Looked at some pics. But I know it only affects the pass. door and my door. But as the pic that was posted further up, I dont have that extra rod as far as I can see. So, the aftermarket kits, they are pretty easy to set up I guess? I will try when my wallet says yes (which is after a bunch of other crap I must have before)

The dome light, my voltmeter did like not work, so I need to get that going (and the weather gods, apparently) before I can do anything. But not a priority as I said, just a nice thing to have.

As for the pics, here they are, with some info.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/pics-my-european-vert-we-call-cab-932875/