cloudlight69

i have an 86 rx7 gxl, starting the mods, have big dreams for my car. this is the problme of late. i was driving along, and all of a sudden i noticed the oil pressure guage was at 0. all other guages worked, and my car has oil, is not overheating and not grinding. this seems to be the last in a long list of electrical probs (if that indeed what it is). it all started with my power windows, which do not roll up or down, although my sunroof works fine. i tried taking out the switches and cleaning them, but that didnt work, the fuse will blow every time i power up the car. next is, my car battery doesnt seem to hold a charge if i let it sit for a handful of days. this happened twice, when i went out of town on business, i got back and the car was dead. and the next time i was gone for 4 days, got back and the car was dead again. has anyone else experienced this problem? about the oil... i check it regularily, and insure it is full, there are no odd smells or anything out of the ordinary other than the pressure guage is dead. should i be worried? the warning buzzer only goes off because of my coolant level, that problem is because the bleeder cap is broken off on the rad, although it is a fairly new rad, about 1 year old, someone along the way busted it and i cant figure who. so i am constantly hearing the buzzer because of that. is there any way i can bore out the hole as a temp fix? my car will be brought to an rx specialist as soon as they are finished with their location move, but that will be in a month or two. so i am open to temp fixes if they will not damage anything.

another note, i was wondering what an average rebuild cost is...i want to get as much HP from the car as possible when i bring it in... i am considering a microtech standalone, other than that i dont know what else there is. i want right around 250hp once finished. any suggestions? average cost? thanks.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Assuming you are talking about 250 WHP, its not really feasable on a street driven NA. About the most you can get on a street port is 200 whp, and thats with a nice, large streetport, s5 rotors and intake, and a standalone with a good tune. To get over that you have to get a bridgeport which I don't consider good for a street car, unless it is purely a weekend driver.
To get those numbers you will need new rotor housings with the rebuild, so you are looking at over 2500 once its streetported, and thats if you remove and isntall it yourself. If you want a bridge, add 500 or so to that, not to mention it wont run unless you have a standalone.

cloudlight69

I wont bridge, but porting is osmething i want to do. i wont do it myself as i have been strongly cautioned against that, as the risk of permanently damaging the engine is a definate possibility and very likely because i am unexperienced in porting. the only shop here in vancovuer that i trust with my car is FORCE FED PERFORMANCE in Langley. They do not port engines. They send it to a 3rd party to be done and because of that the price almost doubles. What is my WHP in the N/A 86 GXL stock? i know that the HP sits at 140. Another thing I have discovered in researching how to go about he mods is that if I have a good standing RX engine then dont mess with it as it is a good thinig to have. so if I have to do what you say in my rebuild, would it be better to buy a new engine? I have the cash to rebuild and rebuild right, no cutting corners, this car is my DD, although i like power, and want more of it. shouldnt a standalone micortech or haltech appease the amount of fuel she consumes once modded? right now I get an average of 300 Kms per fill. which is about 20 litres per 100. or 12 miles per gallon. so i am used to the outrageous fuel in the FC, it is an accepted fact that it is the price you pay to drive what you love. Everyone seems to have their own idea about the best way to mod your car, is there a standard for people who want the power in their DD? I would be happy with about 200WHP, wouldnt a CFT2 clutch assembly help appease the transfer of HP to WHP? and...one last thing, my brother in law is a transmission specialist. he has been for over a decade now, and he tells me there is no need to change your tranny/gears, as blowing gears is just something that is unheard of in the industry. he does alot of work on imports and modded cars, and tells me that the biggest thing to keep an eye on when modding, is to be sure to chekc bearings, bushings, and change the clutch, the only thing that would ever typically mess up on a tranny is the syncros, and that is something that happens over a very extended period of time, not because you mod the car with significant amount more HP. when i asked him what he thought of changing out the RX tranny for miata tranny, he laughed and asked how big my pocketbook was. is this accurate?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

1. Fuel pressure at 0 problem:

A. This is most likely the sender being broken or unplugged. See attached images to find it.

B. If the gauge is physically sitting BELOW 0, that means it's probably mechanically broken in the cluster.

2. Battery not holding a charge
Something is draining the battery. With the car off, see if something is pulling current from the battery (test light I believe will do that for you, or DMM).

3. USE PARAGRAPHS
I thought about not helping you because it's so ******* hard to read.

RETed

Uh, ok...


Stock is 146bhp at the flywheel.
This is in the FAQ stickies.


Who told you that?
True, if your engine is running good - why mess with it?
If you do have the money, go ahead and rebuild.
For the peace of mind, it's worth it if you can afford it.
You also get to see what the insides of the engine is, as many don't know what kind of a condition the engine is internally.


More power is almost going to mean more fuel.
If you can live with the lower gas mileage for more power, then this is an easy question to answer.


With a non-turbo, it's a lot of work to hit that kinda numbers.
If I were you, I would take a ride in an FC turbo.
You feel if keeping it non-turbo is worth the effort.
In the long run, the turbo would be cheaper hp / $.



Do you have a Turbo II transmission?
Else, you can't use a Turbo II clutch on your non-tubo.


Yes, basically.
The Miata trans just gives you a different gear set.
There is basically no advantage in strength - I haven't seen any documentation that claimed this.
If you want strength, moving up to a Turbo II trans is pretty straight-forward.
You only have to worry about this if you're starting to push over 200hp at the wheels.


-Ted