does anyone know where I can get an elec waterpump for my 90 T II .

Has anyone got one now and give me the pro's and con's against it ?/

Thanks in advance

 

Only good it is for is in drag racing, not a very functional item for the street. rx7doctor

 

Why would you even want one?
Don't even think about saying 'saves hp'.

I think the only reason one would want this is for a consistant flow of coolant, so if your car is redlining at like 10k rpm, you don't want water cavitation or any **** right?

 

Summit racing has a Mezier Electric water pump and an adapter for the mazda rotary... Says it'll work for the street... Dunno... How bout you try it and tell me if it works

 

are any of these pumps good for street use, like long usage and such

 

I would not use one of these on a street car.
Namely, the second gen altenators tend to struggle with a few aftermarket electronic components, using an electric water pump is just going to make things worse.

 

how about on a fd alternator then?

 

Why do you want an electric water pump? The stock one works just fine.

Yes an FD alternator would help, but it still depends on your voltage. If you're going to use an electric water pump please realize you're doing so against the advise of this forum.

If it does work out, please come back and tell us what you think!

 

Electric pumps are nowhere neer as reliable as belt-driven.

I chalk them up to race use only. When they fail, they just up and stop turning.

Also you are _MOST LIKELY_ loosing effiency in the long run, because you are converting mechanical energy to electric and then back to mechanical with all lossess inbetween.

 

Wow..

Talk about crapping all over a thread.

The Meziere unit is quite streetable. And in case you all didnt know, thats a great modification for people that spend inordinate amounts of time hanging on the redline (as in me!). The pump runs typically at a standard GPH, and this avoids high rev cavitation.

Think about it kiddies, the efficience of your pump is rev dependent. It would probably wind up being a gas saver even though it would add some load to the alternator.

And before one of you dummies says "get underdrive pullies", you can ****-can that idea right now.

 

We had already mentioned that this is needed mostly for high RPM runs. Most people running street are not going to be doing high RPM all the time.

For street use there is nothing wrong with the stock water pump, as is said over and over in this thread. The kid posting won't mention what he's planning on doing with his car, just wanting to know if it's streetable. Since that's all he's asking I'd say it's fair to assume that's just going to be driving his car like any normal person and on a few occasions redline it. If this is the case, he might as well save the money and keep the stock pump.

If he's trying to do something else that would require an electric pump then he should speak up to keep from being crapped on like everyone tends to do on this forum.


Now that we've gotten that out of the way. What is your experience with the electric pump? Is it worth the extra cash?

 

My experience is mainly based in the V8 world, and the pump is really an item you would install if you are trying to extract every ounce of HP out of your motor. It has been Dyno proven to free up some horsepower. I think that if you installed it on the rotary, it would be more for "bling factor" or just to clean up the engine bay a little (as in shorter belts?). And maybe for those of us that race and need a more reliable pumping system. Our pumps ARE quite suceptible to cavitation (as I am sure you are well aware).

But having said that, I still havent installed one on my car.. Maybe I like the security of the mechanical system?..

 

LoL
I know they do well in V8s. Before i got my FC i was looking at getting a Fiero and putting a V8 in it. All the sites i saw said to use an electric water pump for clearance issues.

I know that our water pumps (like all water pumps) are suceptible to cavitation, but for this to be a real problem you'd need to be at high RPMs for quite awile (probably between 20-30 seconds at 8K or more for heat to begin to rise, but it would rise faster soon after this). How often do you stay at this RPM range on the street?

 

Now, I am going to disagree here just slightly. During drifting runs, my car heats up REAL quick, and I do modulate the pedal so I am in the 7k range. This is with a K2RD radiator and a Black magic fan. So I would guess cavitation starts around 7k or maybe even lower.

Now, I know where you are going with this. Is this a mod you need for the STREET.. My answer? No, probably not, unless you got money and are going for the whole bling thing... But its not a BAD mod..

 

I´m going to run my car this spring with a Davies Craig EWP, and drive both street and strip with the car! The main reason I changed to an electric waterpump is the possibility to cool the car after the engine is turned off, or in very slow traffic and in the line up....

 

Do you have a pic of the install?

 

Apparently this is one of the better electric water pumps. It's still rather new to the US, but so far I know of one road race guru who thinks it is good.
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=8

 

hahhha, that was awesome.

 

I´m waiting for the connection flange to attach the pipes to
the engine. I hope it´ll be done soon, then I´ll post some pics!

- Oscar

 

thats quaility

 

Make sure you document it, well. Although I can't see it being useful to me right now, more info is always appreciated.

That said: Can you run an LED into the cockpit with a relay so it will light up if the pump fails to get power? It seems to me this would be a pretty good idea if you're running electric pump, to alert you to failure as early as possible. LED lights up, you shut car down NOW!

 

I also like the idea of this cooling the car down after you shut it off. That would save coolant seals in my opinion. I hate shutting the car off and then when I turn it back on its 220 and one minute after its back to 185. I am not a fan of that.

 

I will document it very carefully! And I will place a LED in the cockpit, connected to my watertemp gauge so if the temp climbes, I will notice it and shut the motor off!

 

The pump having power is not the issue. The real issue is that "automotive grade" electric motors are absolute crap. No matter where you get them from, they seem to be very poorly made. So in effect, you are taking a reliable mechanical pump and replacing it with an unreliable electric pump. If better motors were used by the manufacturers, then this would not be an issue. So you can easily still have power to the pump, but the motor won't be spinning. The only indication would be rapidly climbing temperature (which can often not even show up on the stock S5 gauge until it's too late).

If you really want to make an electric water pump, I would suggest getting a HIGH QUALITY sealed 12V motor (think military surplus) and simply belting it to your existing water pump.

This is also, by the way, the same problem with aftermarket (and even factory) e-fans. The motors are crap (compared to properly built electric motors).

 

I´m aware of the problems caused by changing to an electric pump!
But in my case it dosen´t matter very much since I only drive my car
about 1500 miles each year, and I´m prepered to replace the pump often, if it´s
necessary. I´ll be using a Greddy 60mm electric watertemp gauge connected to a warning light (and maybe a warning buzzer) that comes on at whatever temp I set it on.
The reason that I replaced it is not increased cooling capacity, if that was the reason then I would be way out there! The main reason for me is the possibility to run the pump independent of engine speed, and to be able to run it with the engine turned of...

- Oscar