That was his main reason. He didnt want to risk getting caught. He rather be safe, despite sitting on his *** and get paid.

 

Concord isn't that far away from me, I'd rather just drive somewhere that I can have access to a person familiar with 7's. How do I find out what type of smog my county is and therefor where else I can take it? If you are willing to test it I can hop in the car for a 90min drive instead of a 10hr drive to SoCal. Oh and how do I look up this guy's certification, can someone hotlink me to a website?

 

The other possibility is that there is a vacuume leak I am not seeing. I have considered just replacing all of the vaccume lines at once because I don't really want to look at every one individually. Could all of this idle issue be as simple as a vacuume leak? I can actually remove the vacuume lines off of the EGR while the motor is running (to where I KNOW theres a huge leak) and it doesn't care. When the guy forced the EGR to open and it is "supposed to make the car sound like it's about to stall) it will happily sit there idling at 1500RPM's.

The next thing for me to try is the throttle stop screw and the thermowax sensor.

 

Usually a vacuum leak will cause the idle to bounce up and down instead of just staying steady.

 

It surges on a cold start for about 5 minutes and after it's warm it stops and holds 1400-1500 steady.

 

1400rpm-1500rpm at normal warm idle, that is a bit high.

Things I suggest you checking: Thermo wax, BAC, and throttle stop screw.

 

Very true. I did neglect to mention basic and enhanced areas. I myself an advanced area tech.

As to your 35$ an hour shop...Damn I must be finding the wrong locations or something...

I can have a car in and out in less than 7 minutes...still cant get enough volume in to make any money.

 

ah, well, THAT settles it.
http://www2.dca.ca.gov/pls/wllpub/WL...&P_LTE_ID=1128

hes a basic area smog tech...........imho means he doesnt know ****.
you need to take your car to an enhanced area smog county, i would have done a simple ASM and had you out of there in 10 minutes.
anyways, what county do you live in? check with smogcheck.ca.gov and look around for your county. if you live up here, then most of the areas are enhanced area counties.

Lloyd
and i am also an advanced area tech. what a bitch to get that license, ****

 

1. the engine will not stumble upon activation of the egr valve. there is already a high percentage of exhaust gas that gets carried over each rotation due to things like not having exhaust valves, and the slower speeds of the rotors. the egr also has small passages, so at idle you're talking about going from 40% exhaust gas to like 40.1%.

2. you cannot put a 20b in legally as it was never certified in the USA, the BAR would look in their book, and it wont be there. although basically the 20b emissions system is the same as the 13b, and it would pass out the tailpipe

 

Sorry I haven't posted in a while, Xmas and all.

So here's what I did, I found that BAC/Thermowax solenoid that everyone was mentioning and saw that it wasn't working right (Never turning off high idle). Since I just want it smogged and legal I put a piece of wood in as a spacer to force the high idle to stop. I can't really get to it without taking my intake manifold off so this is a cheap temporary fix. It DID put the idle in the right range so I am going to pour some SeaFoam in the tank and take it to a different smog shop.

Also the feeling I'm getting is that I should dispute the charge on my credit card to get my money back and use this info to argue that Mr. Tard fucked up the test.

P.S. When they check for vacuume, do they just test the line coming off the EGR solenoid in the Rat's Nest, OR do they test the actual valve itself? I have vacuume from the solenoid when forcing it open, but I still haven't found the line to the actual valve.


What do you guys think? Thanks...

 

if you bypassed the thermowax, recheck the TPS, the thermowax pushes the throttle plates, so it will change.

2. they are supposed to put vacuum on the valve, and the valve is supposed to hold vacuum. on a piston car the idle might change, on the rx7 the idle will not change

 

In post #16 I show the solenoid for the EGR. In that picture I colored the line on the EGR solenoid that feeds vacuum to the solenoid. The OTHER line/nipple on the solenoid is the one that leads to the EGR valve itself.

So follow that line to the EGR valve itself which is bolted to the top of the intermediate housing.

One idea is to pull that line off the EGR solenoid and suck on that line to prove the EGR itself is not ruined and that it's diaphram is good. If you suck on that line and the line holds a vacuum, then the EGR itself is good. IF you suck on that line and it will not hold a vacumm, either the rubber line is cracked or the diaphram internal to the EGR valve is bad (unfixable ulesss the EGR valve itself is replaced ).

Or put another way....the nipple on the solenoid that goes/feeds vacuum to the EGR is the nipple that sticks straight UP on the plastic solenoid.

 

I'll take a look, from what I remember the line coming off the solenoid (straight up) connects to a metal rail that has like 3-4 channels in it and then vanished behind some hoses.

 

I checked online and I'm in a Basic Smog County (95945) so does that mean that I can go anywhere in Cali for smog? Is there any smog techs here North of let's say... Concord or Sacramento?