Ok, so my car has been down for 2 weeks because the clutch slave cylinder died and
Shucks took FOREVER getting me a new one. So a few days ago, I installed the new
slave cylinder and SS clutch line from Corksport and bleeded the system. And of course
because it sat for so long, it flooded and won't start.

I pulled the spark plugs, burnt off any extra fluids on the probes, and cranked the
engine over to expel any extra fuel. I put everything back together and tried several
times to get it started. It revved up a few times but died down immediately.

I pulled the EGI Comp. fuse and it cranks waaaaay better. I figured I could burn extra
fluids in the housings. So later I popped the fuse back in and attempted to start my
stranded baby. Of course it still will not start.

Then the strangest thing happened. I pulled the EGI Comp. fuse out once again and
tried to burn extra fluids. In the process it started right up! I kept it revved up to about
1.5k RPM because I was afraid it will die down again. It stayed up there and even
idled better than before the clutch died!!

Now I'm wondering, since the car runs without the EGI Comp. fuse in, am I just using my coolant/oil for fuel??? I checked the radiator and it seemed that it lost
just a TAD of coolant/water mixture.

Note: when it started to run again, the exhause had MASSES of white smoke (couldn't
see if it's blue or white because it's cloudy and raining here).

PLEASE HELP ME QUICK!!!

 

I don't believe your car started without your computer fuse. Your coils and fuel injectors need that computer. 88s are slightly different from the 90Rx7 but not much at all.

I can tell you this. After you clear the engine of being flooded, pulling spark plugs and fuse, and you put it back together, on my car you can hold the gas pedal to full throttle to shut off the injectors while you crank the motor. This might help so you don't flood it again.

 

Oh yeah, check compression, and do a pressure test on your coolant system. Hope I helped.

 

taking that fuse out certainly stops the injectors from working but i don't know about the ignition. i don't have an answer for why your car runs with that removed. I also have an 88 TII.

 

I couldn't believe it either. I drove it around all day without the EGI Comp. fuse in. It's sitting
in my center console.

There's something else that's weird with that fuse. Right after my clutch blew, the ignition switch
began to act up. If I turn the key to ACC or OFF position from the ON position, it
still acts like it's on the ON position. It wasn't the first time it's happened on my car
but I have fixed it before by tweaking the position of the ignition switch itself.

The weird part is that when I removed and replaced that fuse several times trying to get my
car to start, the ignition switch wouldn't act up like that when the fuse is out. But once I put
the fuse back in, the switch refuses to to turn to ACC or OFF.

Does that make sense?

 

Go to your car and look at the 30 amp EGI COMP fuse. Now look under the fuse box and determine the color of the wire that is feeding it. An example would be WL or WR as in white/blue and white/red respectively. Post your answer,

Aw, lets get it over with. The most inboard fuse should be fed by a Black/Green wire and the next fuse should be fed by a White/Blue wire. That's for a series four.

I suspect your engine fuse box is installed 180 out. See the series five fsm for series five wiring.

 

UPDATE: So I've been running my car without the EGI Comp. Fuse for about a month and a half.
I've been having starting problems lately but a new fully charged battery solved that problem.

Another thing is I haven't been using my 5th gear because it blows my METER fuse and most of
my interior electronics goes out. I suspect it's the 5th/reverse switch and I'm currently looking
to replace it.

So today on my way home, since I was almost there, I decided to try out my 5th
gear to see what would happen (if my gauges/logicon/idiot lights stop working).
Instead, the car died as I was rolling and the METER fuse was still intact. I couldn't
start it back up so I thought I'd try the EGI Comp. fuse again, and TADA! It starts
up and runs just fine. Weird?

How is my 5th gear related with the EGI Comp. fuse? And how my 5th gear related with my
METER fuse?

Sorry for the long story and thanks in advance to anybody that can answer my questions.

 

EGI COMP feeds all the solenoids on the engine. Look and you'll see of the two wires going to each, one is Black/White. That comes from the EGI COMP fuse thru the Main Relay.

Each time you go to fifth gear (over the top switch) you put a ground on the Split Air Solenoid from the over the top switch. Frankly I don't see how that should blow the EGI COMP unless the wiring AT the Split Air Solenoids two wires are touching when you go to fifth gear.

 

No, actually it blows the METER fuse, not the EGI COMP fuse. I had my EGI COMP fuse out simply
because it ran without it. But it seemed like when I used the 5th gear, it needed the EGI COMP
fuse then. Kinda weird.

Thanks, by the way.

 

Let's talk about the fuse box in the engine bay. That fuse box can be removed and reinstalled *** backwards. In other words the EGI fuses will/can be on the outside of the box instead of inboard on the box is the box is installed backwards. I gave you the color of the wire that feeds the EGI COMP but you didn't check it out and or made no reply one way or the other.

Your car has the symptoms/characteristics of a non turbo car that someone put a turbo emissions harness in.

My reply was to this sentence: **How is my 5th gear related with the EGI Comp. fuse? And how my 5th gear related with my
METER fuse?****

I'll look some more to see why a METER fuse would blow in fifth gear. Makes no sense though.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/attach...&postid=190649

 

UPDATE: Well I've gotten so used to driving around without my 5th gear, but I just got
a job up in Vancouver so I gotta commute using the freeways. My engine seems to burn
a lot of oil at 3.5K RPM and up. I keep the revs down and everyone passes me. No big
deal but it's a bit annoying.

So can anyone tell me if it's my 5th/reverse switch on my tranny that blows up my meter
fuse? I'm thinking about ordering a new one but if it isn't that, then I don't wanna waste
money on a part I don't need. Thanks in advance.

 

I'm having this same problem.

 

Seeing as how the over the top switch just puts a ground on the computer and the Split Air solenoid..............I'd vote for the backup switch/wires.

Then again, fifth and reverse are in the same switch.

 

its not the switch on the trany since it is just a grounding switch, you have a wire that crossed somewhere( maybe melted into another wire? or wut not)

about your car running with out that fuse in eaithe means , someone rewired the ecu power, and or some wires have melted together!!

 

Not really. The over the top or fifth gear switch just puts a ground on the ECU and the Split air solenoid, BUT the reverse part of the switch carrys 12v from the Meter fuse to the reversse lights. So if it shorts, it blows a fuse, the meter fuse that is.

 

just unplug the wires coming from the fifth/reverse switch on the tranny. You'll have no reverse lights but atleast you'll have fifth gear.

 

Alright, I'll check for melted wires first before I buy anything. I haven't seen any noticeable
ones yet so I think I'll have to dig deeper. Thanks for the help everyone.

Also, I'd like to keep my reverse lights working. Right now I don't have them and I'm a bit
paranoid when it comes to backing up in a busy parking lot.