ECU Fried! Pics!.. anybody have one to sell??
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
ECU Fried! Pics!.. anybody have one to sell??
Well, my problem was a bad ECU.. weird.
A little bit of water got into the intake (filling up the rad with water) and the engine sputtered then died.
Blew the 100amp main fuse! And no spark or fuel after.
Anyways, my ecu blew somehow- these 3 blue resistors in the pic...
I wonder if I can just get the resistors? There are no color codes on them though. Plus, I'm assuming something else had to have gone too- like a chip or something.. lots of current was going through- it drained my battery after being on for 10 min!
Anyways- I'm assuming only an S5 ECU will work.. since they doubled computer speed in 89...
If anyone has one, I need one ASAP.. help a member out!! Thanks guys...
email me at bambam_x@hotmail.com
A little bit of water got into the intake (filling up the rad with water) and the engine sputtered then died.
Blew the 100amp main fuse! And no spark or fuel after.
Anyways, my ecu blew somehow- these 3 blue resistors in the pic...
I wonder if I can just get the resistors? There are no color codes on them though. Plus, I'm assuming something else had to have gone too- like a chip or something.. lots of current was going through- it drained my battery after being on for 10 min!
Anyways- I'm assuming only an S5 ECU will work.. since they doubled computer speed in 89...
If anyone has one, I need one ASAP.. help a member out!! Thanks guys...
email me at bambam_x@hotmail.com
Last edited by Bambam7; Jun 9, 2003 at 02:22 PM.
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Those are output buffer resistors, although they don't look the least bit blown (usually when they are blown they turn way black in the middle). They are to protect the transistors.
It looks more like the trace burnt on the board.
Anyway, good luck finding them. I usually have to go to a electronics liquidator and find them as they are 1 watt resistors. It looks like they are the 4.3 or the 4.6 ohm resistors, (3R9J right?), but meter one and see for sure.
It looks more like the trace burnt on the board.
Anyway, good luck finding them. I usually have to go to a electronics liquidator and find them as they are 1 watt resistors. It looks like they are the 4.3 or the 4.6 ohm resistors, (3R9J right?), but meter one and see for sure.
Last edited by Icemark; Jun 9, 2003 at 04:55 PM.
Thread Starter
I came, I saw, I boosted.
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
The resistors test out OK! There is continutuity from the ECU pin through the resistors....4.5 ohms or so.. There are no burnt traces on the board either.... You can't really see in the pic, but the resistors are definately brown/burnt in the middle- but not black.
There is ONE other spot that's scorched on the board- its the middle pin on one of these transistors.... hard to tell in the pic, but it's burnt. (noticable on back of board too)
I don't know if it's replacable or what, or if anything else would have burnt.
Is there any way to check that???
So the resistors that are burnt from a heavy current go to pins 2N 20, 2P. They are all outputs to the solenoid valve system...
However- I get 12v from the black /white wire at the solenoids... so whatever shorted there seems now to be OK?? If there is ALREADY 12V going through that circuit- what could have burnt it by putting more though it??
I DON'T get the 5 volt referance signal out to the sensors though (pressure sensor, TPS, etc) so whatever handles that is screwed.
Any ideas? I'm getting another compter for 50 bucks... and I dont want to put it in and have it fry.
It blew the 100 amp main fuse when it went, but with the fuse replaced, it's not blowing again, and I'm getting 12v to the solenoids.. so it seems OK?? ANy idea as to why this would have happened?
There is ONE other spot that's scorched on the board- its the middle pin on one of these transistors.... hard to tell in the pic, but it's burnt. (noticable on back of board too)
I don't know if it's replacable or what, or if anything else would have burnt.
Is there any way to check that???
So the resistors that are burnt from a heavy current go to pins 2N 20, 2P. They are all outputs to the solenoid valve system...
However- I get 12v from the black /white wire at the solenoids... so whatever shorted there seems now to be OK?? If there is ALREADY 12V going through that circuit- what could have burnt it by putting more though it??
I DON'T get the 5 volt referance signal out to the sensors though (pressure sensor, TPS, etc) so whatever handles that is screwed.
Any ideas? I'm getting another compter for 50 bucks... and I dont want to put it in and have it fry.
It blew the 100 amp main fuse when it went, but with the fuse replaced, it's not blowing again, and I'm getting 12v to the solenoids.. so it seems OK?? ANy idea as to why this would have happened?
Last edited by Bambam7; Jun 9, 2003 at 08:35 PM.
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Ok, an update about this... talking with a mechanic...
Apparently- the OMP can blow the ECU.
If you have a car that keep showing a code 27, you need to replace the OMP AND the ECU at the same time.. it's like there are two models, one combination of which causes some kind of problem..
Anyways... it may have had nothing to do with water getting into the ENGINE, but when the water sprayed the turbo intake, it also hit the OMP, shorted it something, and fried the ECU- apparently that circuit isn't protected very well.
I have to check the OMP just to make sure it isn't foobar as well.
I've got a new computer coming, but I'd like to be able to fix this one and sell it..... any idea what would have blown?
Apparently- the OMP can blow the ECU.
If you have a car that keep showing a code 27, you need to replace the OMP AND the ECU at the same time.. it's like there are two models, one combination of which causes some kind of problem..
Anyways... it may have had nothing to do with water getting into the ENGINE, but when the water sprayed the turbo intake, it also hit the OMP, shorted it something, and fried the ECU- apparently that circuit isn't protected very well.
I have to check the OMP just to make sure it isn't foobar as well.
I've got a new computer coming, but I'd like to be able to fix this one and sell it..... any idea what would have blown?
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Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Go ahead and replace the transistor it appears to be a TIP122 which is a Complentary Darlington Power Transistor with an Internal Zener Diode from Collector to Base.
If you can't find that then use a TIP120 (Radio shack normally has that one) but the power handling is not normally as great.
It sounds like maybe when you were washing (or what ever) you just got some water into a solenoid that is getting old and is not as insulated as before or the water got into the valve and it was not able to compress and blew out the valve (taking the ECU with it).
The BAC is normally controlled by the T801 on the S4 ECUs it soetimes also gets smoked by people adjusting it wrong.
If you can't find that then use a TIP120 (Radio shack normally has that one) but the power handling is not normally as great.
It sounds like maybe when you were washing (or what ever) you just got some water into a solenoid that is getting old and is not as insulated as before or the water got into the valve and it was not able to compress and blew out the valve (taking the ECU with it).
The BAC is normally controlled by the T801 on the S4 ECUs it soetimes also gets smoked by people adjusting it wrong.
I have an extra S5 ECU I was about to put on Ebay. It came out of an 91 vert, but I'll be willing to cut you a deal. As far as the OMP frying the ECU, I am not sure. I bought a 91 coupe 3 months ago showing code 27, and I only replaced the OMP, and I have put 3000 miles on it since. I didn't need to replace the ECU also.
