Well, i took my rex to an electrical specialist and after a 2 days of hair pulling, he said that the only thing that he thinks it can be is a fried ecu. Now should i buy anew one (anyone know where) or should i take it to the rx7 specialist?

 

How much did you pay? There is a good way to test to see if the ECU is fried.

http://home.rmci.net/panther/86_88ecu.htm

Your ECU should flash 2 lights when the key is turned to the "on" position. This indicates that the ECU is online.

rat

 

I remember wozoom's site. It's down now.

 

What makes you think the ECU is fried?

 

my lights doesn't turn on nor lights for the tps, and i have super richness , and crazy *** idles........
does it mean my **** is blown toooo?

-mike

 

If your ecu was dead the car shouldnt turn on at all....

 

The ECU could have suffered a minor component malfunction, which possibly could enable the car to run, although not well. Trust me, after 12 years in the electronics field, NOTHING shocks me anymore (no pun intended)..

Rat

 

I think I remember you having a emissions problem of some sort. If you don't see the lights for the tps test connector(green connector) working at all......then indeed PART of the ECU is KAPUT. What those two lights (talking the tps adjustment using the two led light method) represent is ......... a ground to either the relief or switching solenoid. They, the solenoids, control your emissions to a great extent.

What makes either of those tps lights work, is the ECU sending a ground to the relief or switching soleniods. If you look at a schematic, you'll see that is what two of the three green tps connector test wires go to. The third wire is a constant 12v all the time. You might want to see it that is there or not. Its the socket above the other two.

You didn't fry the ECU if you were using those 30ma leds. Someone or someone else did it in.

Get a used ECU.

 

yeah i had a leak or i thought, so i removed my all my vaccum lines, no more emmissions.. but still crazy idle and runs very rich (slowly accels until turbo kicks in) and alot of backfire when i go down a hill and leave it in gear..i'm thinking it's my TPS but i'm not sure i'm going to fully mess with my car tomarrow..

so if i take out my soleniods, i cannot read my green tps lights?

-mike

p.s. i do not see any lights when i connect my lights to the ecu (test to see ecu codes..)

 

600HP CLUB.....slow to accelerate, until you hit boost???? Might try disconnecting the vac line to the diaphram on your throttle body and see what happens. If there is a vacuum there all the time, then I THINK, the secondary two throttle plates will stay closed. Understand the vac line I talk about????

 

i have no secondary throttle plates, i've done a full TB mod. I run really rich though, i can smell it, i can hear it, and i can tell, it's rich......

-mike

 

I guess if it was something minor it would still work. I was more meaning totally fucked, 100% inoperable, garbage.

My switches look pretty neat. Got 1 more to put in yet (well, there is a space for it). Havent decided what to put there, if anything. Just gotta get my motor in and water injection setup.

 

Post some pics!

Rat

 

can a tampered afm be the cause of my problems? because it was tampered by a mechanic, that said "the reason u have cold start problem is because of the afm" then i found out it was weak battery........
but after he tampered with it the car ran normal

just recently all this **** happen.........


still thinking i need ecu though
-mike

 

a tampered AFM could cause you to run rich. Depending on what was tampered with.

Rat

 

sooo what should i do? with a tampered afm...is there anything i can do to tune it back?...

-mike

 

My suggestion would be to start swapping parts out, and see what makes a difference. Other then that, I dont know. I dont tamper with AFMs and its not recommended that you do tamper with it.

Rat

 

does all AFM from series 4 the same??

-mike

 

The TIIs and the N/As are different, thats about it.