my ebrake started getting weaker after 100 or so drift events. Took it apart, the pads were really worn down.
I changed the rear brake pads to brand new ones , tightened my ebrake handle screw and still feels weak. Its not even locking the rear wheels the weird thing is right after I installed the new pads the ebrake handle felt really hard and tight and nice, I could leave the ebrake up like 2 inches and could tighten my driveshaft or wheels without any of the drivetrain spinning, I thought for sure my ebrake was restored but, after driving up and down my street to test the ebrake, it became soft and doesnt even lock the rear end...

what should I do?? if I bleed my brakes will that help or is hydrolics have nothing to do with the handbrake.. I need my ebrake for drifting on certain turns...

is my ebrake cable stretched? my rotors are drilled slotted and still look okay..
is there anyway to get the rear end to lock better?

 

i would check each section of cable and make sure its still intact. the cable CAN stretch but its really not all that common. when in doubt, replace each section of the ebrake cable. this is your 7 telling you that it doesnt like to be drifted, lol.

 

double post. if you need the oem part numbers for the cables let me know. if not, black dragon is a decent place to aquire new cables

 

the cable is above ur driveshaft right? maybe you hit off one of the link sides or something when you swapped subframes

 

That cable is such a huge pain in the *** to get to. I bought all new cables like a year ago and still haven't fixed it .

 

dolla billz

http://www.cncbrakes.com/hsb.asp?grp...402&subseries=

 

Rebuild the rear calipers?

 

you need to give your new brake pads time to break in, just like any other surface that sees a lot of wear.

other than that, you can adjust the hand brake by taking off the rear calipers and turning the actual piston itself. this will cause the handbrake to start sooner/later.

 

i do remember turning the pistons in because the new pads were hard to fit on. maybe this caused it to become weaker, il try turning the piston out a bit and double checking all the cables...

 

the parking brake is only adjusted by turning the adjuster under the parking brake cover. threading the caliper piston out will only cause the caliper to no longer fit over the pads due to the expanded piston. if the pads are new, they do not need to seat into the rotor for parking brake adjustment.

 

Maybe you just need to adjust the operating lever(aka: turn the nut that sits within the spring on the rear brake caliper). The info on how to check if its good is on p-49 in the brake section.