ebay manual boost controller
ebay manual boost controller
When I bought the car it had one of these installed. After I did the rebuild I removed it, but now I would really like to up the boost just a tad. Does anyone have any experience with these?
its not tho.. it rightly=less boost. I was doing some research and the ball and spring is actually in the T. Does that seem correct?
I have installed manual boost controllers before just not this one, its just odd to me. Here is a writeup i saw on it
HERE
I have installed manual boost controllers before just not this one, its just odd to me. Here is a writeup i saw on it
HERE
After reading the writeup that explains they way these are supposed to work, I have to say it's a so-so design. The problem I see is that the spring in the "tee section" will always compress at the same pressure, which is who knows what. It's bound to be something low, but that still means after that pressure threshold, the controller acts like a bleed-type. So you'll still end up with the wastegate cracking open prior to your peak boost setting (unless you set it to the controller's spring pressure). It's basically a hybrid design that's part ball-and-spring type and part bleed-type.
I use an MBC that I made using a simple relief valve (w/ ball and spring) that can be adjusted to increase/decrease spring tension. In this way, the ball bearing never moves out of the way until my boost setting is reached. The design is simple and is often called a "grainger valve": http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm. The only difference between this setup and mine is that I have a check valve to relieve post-boost pressure, while they drill a small hole in the body of the relief valve.
I use an MBC that I made using a simple relief valve (w/ ball and spring) that can be adjusted to increase/decrease spring tension. In this way, the ball bearing never moves out of the way until my boost setting is reached. The design is simple and is often called a "grainger valve": http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm. The only difference between this setup and mine is that I have a check valve to relieve post-boost pressure, while they drill a small hole in the body of the relief valve.
It's so simple I doubt it would fall apart on you, but there are definitely better name-brand controllers available. They'll just cost you more. Or you can make one yourself for around $30 w/ parts from McMasterCarr.
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well I will try it out and see what she does. Thank you!
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Do you think it will be reliable?

