Oooh, can I post for him?

"I can't believe you idiots think slotted rotors make your car stop better. Spend the money and get the $8000 platinum plated brake kit from Brembo, if you can't afford it, you shouldn't be driving a 20 year old car. I don't know why I waste my time on you insufferable little peons."

 

I wouldn't trust those rotors to actually be from Brembo, and I certainly wouldn't trust that Brembo drilled them. Ebay is filled with companies selling knockoff parts for a fraction of the cost of the real, thing, because they've really cheaply made, and it shows.

 

IIRC: Brembo doesn't drill or slot their ****.

 

You guys aren't going to be any fun if you don't even read the whole message.

 

I dunno, I think it looks better.

 

I have personal testimony on my rotors and I love them. I have brembo fronts with bradi rears with the hawk pads and I feel the diffrence. Yes at first I wanted them for asthetics and all, but one day this trailer blew his tire in front of me at around 85mph and when I slammed on my breaks, these bad boys made my car stop really fast. I also use DOT4 brake fluid if that helps a bit. Ohhh these rotors are from ebay and I was skeptical b/c they were really cheap, like I said, I wanted them for asthetics, but ****, they stop and look gooddddddddd

 

Nyc_scorpio: How long ago did you get them, and which shop, if you remember?

 

Ive had them for about 3 years now, got them from irotors. they are a company based in california, when i spoke to the sales rep. he told me that they buy bulk rotors and cut/drill them themselves. total cost as i recall was around 160.00 shipped to NYC if i find the invoice, i will hit you up with there phone and addy, since it seems that they no longer sell their rotors on ebay or they changed their account name.

found their website..... www.irotors.com

 

Once again, stock brakes work perfectly well in normal driving circumstances. Mine lock up my tires as quick as any car I've been in. The only problem is that they're 20 years old (in my case). Things NEED replacing. Once you've got them back to stock/near-stock conditions, they work FINE.

If you have a track car, I can see wanting better rotors for heating reasons. Well, I guess at least. I have no knowledge/experience of track needs/conditions.

 

They'd only be effective in long track situations, I'd think. Short track like SoloII Autocross where you're on course for less than 2 minutes at a time, I doubt they'd help at all.

Performance considerations aside, if you're NOT hard driving and you like the look of them, $10 over the cost of stock rotors may be worth it to you.

 

Looks are one thing, people talking about "performance gains" in reference to stopping distance is another.

If someone can show me proof that your new rotors are superior as far as stopping distance than the stock ones, then I'm all for it.

 

hard driving = increased rotor temperature.
slotted and cross drilled cool quicker.
cool brakes under a hard stopping condition will slow or lock tires up.
tires - sticky can be good or bad depends on road condition, driver habits, cost, ect.


all these are facts period slotted and cross drilled when used with appropriate pads, lines, calibers, tires, fluid, master cylinder, weight reduction, and brake booster. will in fact stop the car quicker period bottom line. unless you have heavy driving habits (insane for the street) your stock will work fine then it is a matter of looks. but factor in that the rotors weight in at little less you are also doing slight wieght reduction within the drivetrain for better acceleration. funny theory, but if you despute this then oh well its a known fact you reduce weight in your drive train and you can get more acceleration (lightweight flywheels, aluminum/cf driveshafts/halfshafts, light weight rims.) . PERIOD END OF STORY.

 

Ok, could you make that a LITTLE more intelligible?

I'm going to ATTEMPT to respond to this, although the punctuation makes it hard to understand.

How can sticky tires be bad? Please explain that. This is assuming the driver understands how to brake properly.

How will slotted and cross drilled rotors stop the car quicker (disregarding the weight issue)? You say they reduce heat, which is a good thing. However, in normal driving, once again, how will they stop the car quicker?

If you reduce weight period you get better acceleration.

 

Drilled rotors won't really cool much fater than normal rotors, true there is an increase in surface area, but the airflow through the holes will be minimal compared to that across the outer and inner surfaces of the rotors. They'll heat up faster though due to the reduced heat capacity from the removal of the material. In the end you'll end up with higher rotor temps.

Lighter rotors will have a negligable effect on braking, because the amount of energy to be disipated from the rotating wheels is small compared to the energy in the chassis. Drilled rotors will reduce the rotational inertia only slightly, and if you can lock the tires already then there won't be any more effect than from the few grams of weight saved, and the run to run variuances will more than mask any difference, so there'll be no advantage.

In some cases there'll be an increase in stopping distances due to the reduction in surface area associated with the drilling.

I just got back from a track day and my plain, $25 rotors did just fine, no fade, with plenty of braking force available.

 

Unless someone truly tests with new Rotors of each kind, i think its pointless to say anything else.

You can take a worn out and used xdrill/slotted system and put in stock rotors in and it'll feel far superior than the previous... in most our cases however the opposite is true, so we're led to believe that xdrill/slotted rotors are better...

Someone here said that all they did was change the rotors and they felt an immediate difference without changing pads or bleeding... the difference is the new rotor is now thicker than the old one, so when you press down on the brake, the piston doesnt have to push the pad so far to have contact with the new rotor... hence resulting in a higher brake feel in the pedal and faster response.

 

ok i mean under normal conditions there is no positive or negative effect of slotted and cross drilled rotors. but then under heavy driving conditions where extreme braking for extended periods of time with a small lapse in between brake and throttle. you will have a lower temperature as a result of air being able to flow through the slots and holes. that along with the fact of when using an older pad the only purpose of a slotted and drilled rotor was to reduce gassing. i hear debates that new pads dont gas. but in reality a new pad will if the area designed to allow gassing to excape gets clogged with brake dust.

 

cross drilling = pointless on modern ventilated discs, they are made like little centrifugal pumps pumping air through the insides of the rotrs to cool them.

Slots may be benificial, I base this only on the fact that nascar and WRC cars both employ them. I think it may have something to do with clearing the rotor surface of water/ debris more quickly when the brakes are initially applied.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/D2-Racing-8-Pot-...QQcmdZViewItem

check out these bad boys!

 

The calipers themselves are pretty, maybe it's a bad picture, but it looks like someone who didn't know what they were doing spraypainted the rotor hub in one big heavy coat. :P Also, for $2000 USD, I'd expect Brembo's or Baer's. Why go offbrand if it's just as expensive as the tried and true ones?

 

technically speaking...since slotted and crossdrilled rotors have less mass....doesn't that mean that it will NOT be able to convert speed into heat as quickly?

 

It just means they heat up faster, leading to increased chances of fade.

 

That's true, but they also cool off faster due to more surface area meaning less brake fade. Which leads us back where we were pages ago - Slotted and Cross-drilled rotors don't help you stop faster, they help you stop more consistently.

So they would be beneficial in an actual racing environment, but not so much in a street-driven environment (where you're not braking at 80-100%) or an solo/solo II type autocross environment (where you're not braking hard for longer than a couple minutes at a time).

They're cool, they're shiny, they're impressive to look at, noone's saying don't get them. Just don't kid yourself into thinking that you're going to unleash stopping powers never before seen by human eyes by buying a pair of $40 e-bay cross-drilled rotors. Brembo and Baer systems stop better because the rotors are gi-normous, and the calipers have 4-8 specially size-calibrated and matched pistons per caliper.

Wanna stop faster? Put more pad on the rotor, and more rotor on the pad.
Wanna look good once you do stop? Buy slotted/cross-drilled manganese-coated hub candy.

It's like the spoiler on the back of my Neon. It looks good, but it's not functional. :P

 

well, someone mentioned wrc, and thats my cup of tea.
ive been a 7 owner for a little over a year, but a rally driver for over 4 years.
anyway, i use slotted cryo rotors on my rallycar because the slotts dissipate water that gets trapped under the pad (when we do water crossings and all)
as for my 7, i put a set of stock rotors on and felt a world of difference. i use some blue pads (cant remember the name, but they are(or were) on sale at tire rack) new calipers, and dot 4 fluid.

 

Better tires and getting some good pair of racing pads is the first upgrade I always do when I want to stop faster.

What most of you guys forget about companies such as Mercedes, Lotus, and Porsche is that on their cars they use oversized rotors. They have to drill them to lose weight. Larger rotor with a lot of weight is not the idea of braking faster.
If you look at F1 racing brake technology, they use black rotors, not slotted rotors or drilled rotors, why, because their brakes are under tremendous stress, if they did use drilled or slotted rotors it will crack by the middle of the race.

Very True

 

You cant really use F1 cars for examples in tehse types of discussions, because their rules are very strict in what they can and can't use.

A good example would be that I have heard it said that "F1 cars use fairly small wheels with large sidewalls because that is the best combination for performance....the designers would NEVER have picked such a wheel/tire size combination if it would reduce performance. Therefore, using putting larger wheels and lower profile tires on your car reduces performance." But the fact of the matter is, the designers are limited in what wheel sizes they are allowed to use, so that argument isn't very good.

--Alex