drilled rotors have a tendancy to crack. I've seen it happed on a few occasions.

 

EDIT: Nah, it's not worth it.

 

i like r1s product as well and i have no complaints at all

 

this is an old argument

cross drill = to allow for outgassing... modern pads no longer out gas.
slots = to clean the surface of the brake pads when they glaze... modern pads no longer glaze... especially on the street.

there are for aesthetics nowadays... the end. i'm not saying don't run them. go ahead. it's your car and your money. just know what you are paying for.

if you care about stopping fast, money will be better spent on rotor blanks, high heat racing pads and sticky tires.

 

this thread is so frustrating its not even funny....you guys can say they make no differnce and there not worth it but you wont say that after your going 130 down the highway and you have to brake hard an you lose your brakes cause of some beat *** stock rotors and pads.....if you have a fast car you need faster brakes........im sorry but you mean to tell me you guys dont drive your car fast enough on the street to get brake fade???i know i do and without a doubt those rotors helped my braking....and to say that they are just for looks is just so dumb its not even funny... go talk to some guys who have them and say that and they will just laugh at you!!!

 

ive said my piece, now im done w/ this thread...... and as for calling people names... all i said was if you think the only reason merc. put drill rotors on their cars was for eye pleasures, your a retard! i never specifically named anyone... but if you fall into that catagory, then sorry for you

 

back up a second 13bturbofc

0. what is the most basic brake upgrade? bigger brakes.
1. why do we get bigger brakes? more resistance to fade, more contact surface area, usually more clamping force in the new caliper.
2. how do bigger brakes resist fade? there is more mass in the larger rotor to absorb heat.
3. what happens when you drill a bunch of holes in your rotor? you have taken mass away from the rotor.
4. what happens when the rotor has less mass? there is less mass available to absorb heat.

don't trust me? how about stop tech?
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...lections.shtml

brake fade? bigger brakes and higher heat tolerance pads. xdrills are waste. imo, slots are questionable but i won't fault you for running them. the end.

 

Brake fade on the street is an indication of 1 of 2 things. 1 there's a problem, or 2 you're driving like an idiot and should be arrested. I drive pretty hard sometimes, and I've tracked my car several times and I've never had fade. That's with the stock rotors that came with the car when I bought it, so they're not a problem. Fade is from 2 things, the pads or the fluid overheating. Bigger rotors help by holding more heat before transferring it to the pads and fluid, and they'll cool better. Most FC's that are raced use stock sized brakes, but with better fluid and pads. I run 550 degree fluid, and stock pads, and it's not a problem on the street or at autocross. For the track I've used Hawk HP+'s in the past, and I've got some Porterfield R4's for September when I'll be at Pacific Raceways.

I bet if you get some decent pads and fluid your fade will go away.

It doesn't matter if an insult is targeted, you're still trying to use an insult to win an argument, which is a very juvenile thing to do. Seriously, grow up.

 

Just to throw this out there, but its very possible that the brakes might have given the image of shorter stopping distances? Not that I necessarily doubt you guys who claim x-drilled/slotted rotors stop faster than blanks, but some hard data would be nice to support your claims.

But hey, this isn't an arguement about x-drilled/slotted rotors against blanks. It seems most everyone is happy with the ebay rotors they've bought, however.

 

I actually feel sorry for you people who buy this crap and believe it(FS:magic beans pm me). Please show me your 60-0 stopping distances with your cross drilled rotors please. If you actually experience brake fade on the street you really need your license taken away. Not until my 3rd 20 minute session at buttonwillow did I ever experience fade on the stock brake system. Keep in mind this is with old pads, 20y/o rubber lines , and rotors about 1mm short of being out of spec as per the FSM. Cross drilled= waste of money better spent on trackday or autocross.

 

ok, lemme do this again.........

1. better pads and better brake fluid of coarse will help w/ brake fade.... i never said it wouldnt.... but at the time i bought the rotors, the only thing going bad on my braking system (to my knowledge) was the rotors.... they were starting to groove.... so at the time, i had extra cash, so i bought the x-drilled rotors (at this point they were for looks only) (i never bought them to help w/ anything)... but when i started running the same canyons i always ran, i noticed that i my brakes didnt get nearly as hot, or in some cases, not as hot as fast as they normally would.... so they proved themselves to me!

now maybe if i had put blanks on there, replaced my pads w/ performance pads, did a full brake system flush and put in race fluid, then im sure it would have performed the same way.....maybe better..... but, my fluid was fine, and i had plenty of meat left on my pads.... so if it isnt broke, dont fix it!(at least this was my philosophy 3 years ago) ...

like ive said before, ive read tons of articles on how inferior x-drills are to slots, and mine arent just x-drilled, they also have slots... so who knows, maybe the only thing helping me are the slots... ill never know, but i do know that they did help w/ brake fade... also, i wont claim these were miracle rotors, and i never get fade, and my stopping distances were dramatically reduced... all i said were they gave some extra distance before my brakes were toast! i dont stop any faster nor did i ever claim i did!

2. now my driving habits are being put on the table...... i am a VERY safe and cautios driver.. the only time and place i push my car is on canyons and hills that ive driven for years, and there are no homes, businesses, people anywhere in sight,... these are isolated roads that many people go to drive their cars harder than normal, and not have to worry about other peoples safety.... and MANY people get brake fade on these canyons... and it has nothing to do w/ their driving.. these are just long runs w/ lots of twistys...it happens!



last.. i have x-drilled AND slotted rotors (pic of rotors below, dont mind the rust..my car hadnt been driven in a month or so).. so this debate between the 2 is kinda pointless in my case! i have both... so i cant argue either way.... something about my rotors helped... end of story

 

aahahhahaa.... 20 minutes!!!! try doing our canyon runs, which last over 2 HOURS! maybe even longer! (you push any brake system long enough, it will give) and you have to keep one thing in mind.... LOTS of down hill braking, which will cause fade on any car if pushed hard for extended periods of time! and nobody ever said they help our cars stop faster! just keep them cooler for a little longer!

 

I'm all for better brakes. Personally the largest difference I've noticed was from larger brakes & better calipers (larger/more pistons). I've had my old civic's AEM brakes glow enough to see em reflect off a rock wall on my old downhill course. Note that with the slotted rotors, I noticed that brake dust was quite abundant. I'd assume from the shaving effect.

Slotted rotors are my personal favorite, while I've heard many good things about the cross drilled rotors. I would advise the cross drilled rotors to be cryo treated to help longevity, as I've seen a few crack.

I'd assume that with both style brakes they'd definatly work and would change pedal feel when hard on the brakes. It all boils down to preferance, budget, and performance goals.

Not ever having drilled rotors, I cant say much about em, besides I'd definatly make sure they were quality components as I'm sure we'd all would.

Oh- lets keep it civil people!

 

I would say to use a good brand, such as Brembo if you are going to use drilled/slotted rotors. I had a pair of drilled/slotted rotors from Brembo (the same kind as below) and didnt have any issues with them while I lived in Jacksonville for over a year.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BREMB...QQcmdZViewItem

 

My stock brakes lock up my tires. You can only stop as fast as your tires allow.

 

you should stop listening to people who say these fancy shmancy rotors stop faster than blanks.

rotors don't touch the ground... at all. brakes don't stop the car. tires do.

can you lock your wheels under hard braking? if yes, your brakes are doing everything they can. going with bigger/fatter/meaner brakes will let you get to that locking limit with less pedal travel (more contact patch, more mu) and more consistently (less fade), but it certainly won't help stopping distance.

stopping distance is determined by other variables. if you want to stop shorter...

lighten the car
improve brake bias
upgrade tires (first and foremost)

 

Well, let's see if we can return to the heart of the question at the root of this topic. Performance concerns aside, has anyone had any problems with any of these rotors? Has anyone bought any of these rotors and been happy? At the end of it all, if you have them and you're happy and they don't destroy your car, then what's the harm?

Yeah, there are a lot of people that want their RX7's to be fast, there are a lot of people who just want to look good, and there are people who want both. Realistically, unless your RX7 is a race car only, you're not going to be driving at the limits all the time. While I may not have chosen your metallic green flame paint job, (for example ) I can admire that it's a quality job, and a sweet looking car. Likewise, I respect all the tube framed, roll-caged RX7s with plastic non-adjustable bucket to sit in, but I wouldn't go that extreme with mine either. Can't we all just get along, and stop casting dispersions on people's tastes?

 

taste is one thing. i don't care if people run these rotors for looks.

misinformation is another. being wrong and spreading wrong information is bad. it makes the community look bad and it confuses noobs.

 

I agree, and my comment wasn't directed at you specifically. But 3 pages later we have a debate on performance virtues of slotted and drilled rotors, which I'm sure has been covered before in 500 other topics ad nauseum. However, the original post didn't ask anything about improved performance, but about experiences and durability. In 3 pages I've seen two or three posts regarding generalizations about drilled rotor durability, which is at least somewhat helpful, but nothing regarding these particular rotors, I've seen a post or two from people who have these and liked them which definitely belongs here, and another 2 1/2 pages about performance, which wasn't an issue according to the original topic, right?

I'm interested in this also because I drive my Rx7 not so much, I dig the look of them, and watching my normal rotors get surface rust after a couple days of non-driving makes me nervous. Performance is a whole other debate, right?

 

sort of. if there's bad info though, imo someone should always step up and point it out.

surface rust on rotors is normal. its pretty much unavoidable. even if you get $$$ zinc coated rotors, the zinc coating on the contact surface gets scraped off first time you drive. so if you don't drive for a bit, it will rust on the circle where the pad meets the rotor. not a big deal though. the rust will get scraped off the first time you drive it again.

hope that answers your question.

 

Don't misunderstand me. I was merely expressing my own personal doubt about x-drilled/slotted rotors in a nicer fashion than most in this thread. I would have thought that my own reposting of information on rotors gathered from previous threads might have indicated that...

 

sorry if it came across that way.

i only wanted to address the issue you raised.

this question comes up alot so many of us who have answered it dozens of times before get a little twitchy whe it comes up again. its like a nervous tick! seriously though, its so hard to break through all the marketing hype b.s., especially with this subject.

 

yeah, I always understood that cross-drilled slotted rotors were pretty much for looks unless you're doing like 2 or 3 hours on a track at a time, and they didn't improve cold stopping power, but made braking more consistent over a wider temp range. And they're keen for car shows

 

honestly this thread is the first time ive ever heard of drilled or slotted rotors being for looks.....i dont think they look any better then blanks do you? and what idiot would sacrifice braking for good looks? i know i wouldnt....

 

We need Ted to post.