Easiest Way To Remove Turbo
Easiest Way To Remove Turbo
later today i need to take my turbo out so i can port my wastegate i just want to ask what is the easiest way to take the turbo out of the car. should i go under the car and take it out or can i do it without going under the car. sorry for the question but im a kid and im learning and if theres an easy way to take it out is better to know what it is than doing it the long way.
thanks
thanks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I edited your thread so it has a proper title. Things like "question" are useless and generally make your topic fall into the background.
As for the question, it kind of depends. Part of the job will be done underneath, but the actual turbo removal is usually done from the top. Of course you will need to alternate above and below the car to loosen the nuts that hold it in place.
As for the question, it kind of depends. Part of the job will be done underneath, but the actual turbo removal is usually done from the top. Of course you will need to alternate above and below the car to loosen the nuts that hold it in place.
i have found that you should start with the intake tubing and box (if the box is still in you car), then airpump and belt, next the coolant line at the lower radiator hose that is held by a clamp, the the high pressure oil feed (2 17mm wrenches the nut closest to the engine will back off) then the two (10mm) nuts on the side of the lower intake manifold that feed coolant and then the 2 (12mm) bolts that attach the turbo oil drain to the drain extension pipe located below the intake inlet of the turbo) then the 3 (17mm i believe) nuts that hold the downpipe to the turbo (these will probably be rusted and will need ample soak time with a rust penatrent like pb blaster). the downpipe nuts will need to be removed from the bottom (dont let the penatrent drip in your eyes!) and finally the 4 (14mm) nuts and washers that hold the turbo to the manifold, you will need an open end wrench to get the two closes to the firewall off and can use a regular wrench (1/2in drive with 6 point socket works best) to get the remaining 2 from the radiator side of the turbo. detach the twin scroll actuator and hose and lift the turbo up and towards the radiator. good luck and be patient with rusted bolts, you really really dont want to break them and have to replace the studs.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
I edited your thread so it has a proper title. Things like "question" are useless and generally make your topic fall into the background.
As for the question, it kind of depends. Part of the job will be done underneath, but the actual turbo removal is usually done from the top. Of course you will need to alternate above and below the car to loosen the nuts that hold it in place.
As for the question, it kind of depends. Part of the job will be done underneath, but the actual turbo removal is usually done from the top. Of course you will need to alternate above and below the car to loosen the nuts that hold it in place.
thanks
Originally Posted by Rx7Ridah
i have found that you should start with the intake tubing and box (if the box is still in you car), then airpump and belt, next the coolant line at the lower radiator hose that is held by a clamp, the the high pressure oil feed (2 17mm wrenches the nut closest to the engine will back off) then the two (10mm) nuts on the side of the lower intake manifold that feed coolant and then the 2 (12mm) bolts that attach the turbo oil drain to the drain extension pipe located below the intake inlet of the turbo) then the 3 (17mm i believe) nuts that hold the downpipe to the turbo (these will probably be rusted and will need ample soak time with a rust penatrent like pb blaster). the downpipe nuts will need to be removed from the bottom (dont let the penatrent drip in your eyes!) and finally the 4 (14mm) nuts and washers that hold the turbo to the manifold, you will need an open end wrench to get the two closes to the firewall off and can use a regular wrench (1/2in drive with 6 point socket works best) to get the remaining 2 from the radiator side of the turbo. detach the twin scroll actuator and hose and lift the turbo up and towards the radiator. good luck and be patient with rusted bolts, you really really dont want to break them and have to replace the studs.
Trending Topics
I'm also going to need to pull my turbo to port the wastegate, and hopefully it should not be too much of a problem with this thread, Thanks for the info yall.
How would one go about doing that? Thanks in advance.
Brian
Originally Posted by J-Rat
there is a method of doing a turbo without jacking the car. How do i know? I have done it twice, thats how.
How would one go about doing that? Thanks in advance.
Brian
Originally Posted by leftshoo
How would one go about doing that? Thanks in advance.
Brian
Brian
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Its not really hard if you have enough leverage to move the exhaust back far enough to clear the exhast studs. then you remove the water lines, and the oil lines. The bolts holding the turbo to the mani are all easily accessed from the top of the car. Then you just pull the turbo out!
Hmmm, might have to try that this weekend.
Thanks!!
Brian
I don't have ABS so that may change this a bit. Also have done it without a jack before 
For me.
I remove the TID and AFM
I then unbolt the 3 exhaust bolts
Then I loosen the 4 exhaust manifold to turbo bolts.
I usually remove the 2 or 3 hard ones to get at and keep one on as a way to make sure the turbo doesn't shift.
Then I get some paper towels for the next step.
Get a bolt or something for the impending flow of coolant.
Undo the tubo oil feed line. Try to cap it with some paper towel.
Then wait a sec to make sure excess oil drains.
Then unbolt the drain line. Leave a towel under the turbo outlet.
I usually unhook the water pump to turbo coolant line first and try to quickly jam a bolt with some paper towel around it in to stop the leaking coolant. Both turbo and waterpump sides.
I then unbolt the turbo to LIM line and try to space the turbo out a bit to fit some more paper towels.
Now if you did it perfect the coolant feed line will be sealed so there won't be an inlet for air to go so the coolant will drip instead of POUR out.
Undo that last manifold bolt you had on there.
I use the turbo to lIM coolant line as a handle as I work the turbo forward towards where the AFM was.

For me.
I remove the TID and AFM
I then unbolt the 3 exhaust bolts
Then I loosen the 4 exhaust manifold to turbo bolts.
I usually remove the 2 or 3 hard ones to get at and keep one on as a way to make sure the turbo doesn't shift.
Then I get some paper towels for the next step.
Get a bolt or something for the impending flow of coolant.
Undo the tubo oil feed line. Try to cap it with some paper towel.
Then wait a sec to make sure excess oil drains.
Then unbolt the drain line. Leave a towel under the turbo outlet.
I usually unhook the water pump to turbo coolant line first and try to quickly jam a bolt with some paper towel around it in to stop the leaking coolant. Both turbo and waterpump sides.
I then unbolt the turbo to LIM line and try to space the turbo out a bit to fit some more paper towels.
Now if you did it perfect the coolant feed line will be sealed so there won't be an inlet for air to go so the coolant will drip instead of POUR out.
Undo that last manifold bolt you had on there.
I use the turbo to lIM coolant line as a handle as I work the turbo forward towards where the AFM was.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM
Frisky Arab
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
13
Aug 18, 2015 05:30 PM
KAL797
Test Area 51
0
Aug 11, 2015 03:47 PM



