2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Easiest Way To Remove Turbo

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 5, 2006 | 10:41 PM
  #1  
rx7legend's Avatar
Thread Starter
Fc3s 4 life
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Puerto Rico
Easiest Way To Remove Turbo

later today i need to take my turbo out so i can port my wastegate i just want to ask what is the easiest way to take the turbo out of the car. should i go under the car and take it out or can i do it without going under the car. sorry for the question but im a kid and im learning and if theres an easy way to take it out is better to know what it is than doing it the long way.

thanks
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 08:45 AM
  #2  
Aaron Cake's Avatar
Engine, Not Motor
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I edited your thread so it has a proper title. Things like "question" are useless and generally make your topic fall into the background.

As for the question, it kind of depends. Part of the job will be done underneath, but the actual turbo removal is usually done from the top. Of course you will need to alternate above and below the car to loosen the nuts that hold it in place.
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 01:09 PM
  #3  
Rx7Ridah's Avatar
Senior Member
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
From: Green Bay
i have found that you should start with the intake tubing and box (if the box is still in you car), then airpump and belt, next the coolant line at the lower radiator hose that is held by a clamp, the the high pressure oil feed (2 17mm wrenches the nut closest to the engine will back off) then the two (10mm) nuts on the side of the lower intake manifold that feed coolant and then the 2 (12mm) bolts that attach the turbo oil drain to the drain extension pipe located below the intake inlet of the turbo) then the 3 (17mm i believe) nuts that hold the downpipe to the turbo (these will probably be rusted and will need ample soak time with a rust penatrent like pb blaster). the downpipe nuts will need to be removed from the bottom (dont let the penatrent drip in your eyes!) and finally the 4 (14mm) nuts and washers that hold the turbo to the manifold, you will need an open end wrench to get the two closes to the firewall off and can use a regular wrench (1/2in drive with 6 point socket works best) to get the remaining 2 from the radiator side of the turbo. detach the twin scroll actuator and hose and lift the turbo up and towards the radiator. good luck and be patient with rusted bolts, you really really dont want to break them and have to replace the studs.
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 01:25 PM
  #4  
rx7legend's Avatar
Thread Starter
Fc3s 4 life
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Puerto Rico
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
I edited your thread so it has a proper title. Things like "question" are useless and generally make your topic fall into the background.

As for the question, it kind of depends. Part of the job will be done underneath, but the actual turbo removal is usually done from the top. Of course you will need to alternate above and below the car to loosen the nuts that hold it in place.
thanks man, also aaron when i finished porting the wastegate i need to tune my safcII. my question is, can i tune it with the stock 550cc injectors or do i have to go to 720's???? right now my mods are safcII, racing beat turbo back, walbro 255 fp and the ported wastegate when i finish it. im thinking about running 10-11 psi.

thanks
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 01:26 PM
  #5  
rx7legend's Avatar
Thread Starter
Fc3s 4 life
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Puerto Rico
Originally Posted by Rx7Ridah
i have found that you should start with the intake tubing and box (if the box is still in you car), then airpump and belt, next the coolant line at the lower radiator hose that is held by a clamp, the the high pressure oil feed (2 17mm wrenches the nut closest to the engine will back off) then the two (10mm) nuts on the side of the lower intake manifold that feed coolant and then the 2 (12mm) bolts that attach the turbo oil drain to the drain extension pipe located below the intake inlet of the turbo) then the 3 (17mm i believe) nuts that hold the downpipe to the turbo (these will probably be rusted and will need ample soak time with a rust penatrent like pb blaster). the downpipe nuts will need to be removed from the bottom (dont let the penatrent drip in your eyes!) and finally the 4 (14mm) nuts and washers that hold the turbo to the manifold, you will need an open end wrench to get the two closes to the firewall off and can use a regular wrench (1/2in drive with 6 point socket works best) to get the remaining 2 from the radiator side of the turbo. detach the twin scroll actuator and hose and lift the turbo up and towards the radiator. good luck and be patient with rusted bolts, you really really dont want to break them and have to replace the studs.
thanks bro, i apreciate your help
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 02:50 PM
  #6  
Aaron Cake's Avatar
Engine, Not Motor
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
You can tune it with the stock injectors. You only need to move to larger injectors if you need more fuel.
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 03:04 PM
  #7  
J-Rat's Avatar
Alcohol Fueled!
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,093
Likes: 2
From: Hood River oregon
there is a method of doing a turbo without jacking the car. How do i know? I have done it twice, thats how.
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 05:53 PM
  #8  
leftshoo's Avatar
ooh-rah!
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: Panama City, FL
I'm also going to need to pull my turbo to port the wastegate, and hopefully it should not be too much of a problem with this thread, Thanks for the info yall.

Originally Posted by J-Rat
there is a method of doing a turbo without jacking the car. How do i know? I have done it twice, thats how.

How would one go about doing that? Thanks in advance.

Brian
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 06:01 PM
  #9  
Carzy Driver's Avatar
Law Breaker
Tenured Member: 15 Years
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 0
From: S.F. Bay Area, California 510
I pull the motor so that I don't bust my knuckles too much
Reply
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #10  
J-Rat's Avatar
Alcohol Fueled!
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,093
Likes: 2
From: Hood River oregon
Originally Posted by leftshoo
How would one go about doing that? Thanks in advance.

Brian
Its not really hard if you have enough leverage to move the exhaust back far enough to clear the exhast studs. then you remove the water lines, and the oil lines. The bolts holding the turbo to the mani are all easily accessed from the top of the car. Then you just pull the turbo out!
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2006 | 11:20 AM
  #11  
leftshoo's Avatar
ooh-rah!
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: Panama City, FL
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Its not really hard if you have enough leverage to move the exhaust back far enough to clear the exhast studs. then you remove the water lines, and the oil lines. The bolts holding the turbo to the mani are all easily accessed from the top of the car. Then you just pull the turbo out!

Hmmm, might have to try that this weekend.

Thanks!!

Brian
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2006 | 04:25 PM
  #12  
Digi7ech's Avatar
I break Diff mounts
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,403
Likes: 4
From: Avondale, Arizona
I don't have ABS so that may change this a bit. Also have done it without a jack before

For me.

I remove the TID and AFM
I then unbolt the 3 exhaust bolts
Then I loosen the 4 exhaust manifold to turbo bolts.
I usually remove the 2 or 3 hard ones to get at and keep one on as a way to make sure the turbo doesn't shift.

Then I get some paper towels for the next step.
Get a bolt or something for the impending flow of coolant.

Undo the tubo oil feed line. Try to cap it with some paper towel.
Then wait a sec to make sure excess oil drains.
Then unbolt the drain line. Leave a towel under the turbo outlet.

I usually unhook the water pump to turbo coolant line first and try to quickly jam a bolt with some paper towel around it in to stop the leaking coolant. Both turbo and waterpump sides.

I then unbolt the turbo to LIM line and try to space the turbo out a bit to fit some more paper towels.
Now if you did it perfect the coolant feed line will be sealed so there won't be an inlet for air to go so the coolant will drip instead of POUR out.

Undo that last manifold bolt you had on there.

I use the turbo to lIM coolant line as a handle as I work the turbo forward towards where the AFM was.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM
Th0m4s
Build Threads
25
Feb 26, 2019 02:04 AM
Frisky Arab
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
13
Aug 18, 2015 05:30 PM
KAL797
Test Area 51
0
Aug 11, 2015 03:47 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:32 PM.