E-fan loading the engine.....
#1
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E-fan loading the engine.....
Alright.
Quick question for guys with e-fans.
Does your rpm at idle drop by any noticable amount when the e-fan kicks on?
Isn't the BAC supposed to compensate for this or is it too much for it to handle? I thought the BAC compensated for added draw on the engine, such as AC.
Is there something I forgot to do when I installed my e-fan in order to get the engine to compensate from the extra electical draw?
Basically, my car will idle at 900-1000 rpm when the fan is off and then drop down to 700-750 rpm when the fan is on.
I tried adjusting the idle while the fan was off and got it set at 750, but when the fan kicks on, the idle drops to like 500-550 rpm and sometimes stalls.
Quick question for guys with e-fans.
Does your rpm at idle drop by any noticable amount when the e-fan kicks on?
Isn't the BAC supposed to compensate for this or is it too much for it to handle? I thought the BAC compensated for added draw on the engine, such as AC.
Is there something I forgot to do when I installed my e-fan in order to get the engine to compensate from the extra electical draw?
Basically, my car will idle at 900-1000 rpm when the fan is off and then drop down to 700-750 rpm when the fan is on.
I tried adjusting the idle while the fan was off and got it set at 750, but when the fan kicks on, the idle drops to like 500-550 rpm and sometimes stalls.
#5
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Well. Here's the deal, I think my ECU needs resoldering....I have done everything I can to figure out why my car is flooding. I have serviced the injectors, new plugs and 8mm wires. Adjusted the TPS and idle screw. I have also replaced 99% of the vacuum lines.
I unhooked the BAC while it was running and the engine rpm lowered by about 100 rpm. With the car off, hooking two jumper wires up, I was able to get it to click.
I have a spare BAC (also testing good) laying around from my parts car. I will give a good cleaning and swap them next Tuesday (part is at my dad's shop, gotta go home to get it).
I was just wondering whether the ECU or BAC would know when the e-fan kicks on. I guess I was right, now to figure out why it isn't compensating enough.
I am not looking for a perfect, always at 750 idle here. I don't mind if the idle drops 50-100 rpm, that is acceptable. But 250 rpm seems too much of a window....
I unhooked the BAC while it was running and the engine rpm lowered by about 100 rpm. With the car off, hooking two jumper wires up, I was able to get it to click.
I have a spare BAC (also testing good) laying around from my parts car. I will give a good cleaning and swap them next Tuesday (part is at my dad's shop, gotta go home to get it).
I was just wondering whether the ECU or BAC would know when the e-fan kicks on. I guess I was right, now to figure out why it isn't compensating enough.
I am not looking for a perfect, always at 750 idle here. I don't mind if the idle drops 50-100 rpm, that is acceptable. But 250 rpm seems too much of a window....
#6
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Well, I have to ask what the concern is? Think about it--the idle is SUPPOSED to be around 800 and yours is at 750 under load...no problem there. And being around 900-1000 without the load is not bad either. I have heard all kinds of horror stories about very high or very low idles and yours seems to be right in a good spot.
Aside from that, I might say to go for the FD alternator that Silverrotor sells. It can handle more of a load than the stock one that you have and you just might see better results with it. Besides, it is a good upgrade all around. I am going to drop one in mine pretty soon too.
Aside from that, I might say to go for the FD alternator that Silverrotor sells. It can handle more of a load than the stock one that you have and you just might see better results with it. Besides, it is a good upgrade all around. I am going to drop one in mine pretty soon too.
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Donald Hampton
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