dumping coolant in engine
#1
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dumping coolant in engine
Im dumping coolant in my engine and its flooding the car, im not burning coolant though unless i unflood it. What could be the problem?
#2
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well quit pouring it in your engine, dummy. just messing wit ya i dont quite understand what your trying to say here??are the coolant seals shot allowing coolant to seap into the combustion chamber and filling it up?
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im not sure what the problem is. I can drive it and its fine, i dont burn coolant or anything. but SOMETIMES when i stop/turn car off the car floods, and when it does taht i burn coolant off. After a while it will stop and it wont burn coolant anymore. It only floods sometimes.
If the seals are gone wouldnt i notice a loss in compression? Wouldnt i also have oil in my radiator and vis versa? Im hoping its not the seals. But i have no idea.
If the seals are gone wouldnt i notice a loss in compression? Wouldnt i also have oil in my radiator and vis versa? Im hoping its not the seals. But i have no idea.
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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It doesn't sound like you are burning coolant UNLESS you are actually watching the level go down.
Engines buring coolant will generally spew large clouds of sweet smelling smoke, overheat in short order and consume coolant. They may also push coolant out of the recovery bottle due to the pressure generated.
It sounds like you may just be experiencing the typical flooding, and mistaking the sometimes grey smoke generated for coolant smoke.
Check out this for info on overheating: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/cooling.htm
Engines buring coolant will generally spew large clouds of sweet smelling smoke, overheat in short order and consume coolant. They may also push coolant out of the recovery bottle due to the pressure generated.
It sounds like you may just be experiencing the typical flooding, and mistaking the sometimes grey smoke generated for coolant smoke.
Check out this for info on overheating: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/cooling.htm
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Its not over heating and it only smokes right after the unflooding, i let it idle for a few minutes and it clears up. Could it just be something simple as a bad injector?
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#11
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Originally Posted by TehMonkay
Maybe the tension bolts are loose and after the engine cools down and shrinks a little it lets a little bit of coolant past the seals?
Long shot.
Long shot.
#12
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hmm, ill see if i can tighten them up tommarow, i didnt know that was actully possiable for them to come loose like that.
Thank you everyone for the help.
Thank you everyone for the help.
#13
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I have never in my time on the forums or talking to people that describe the same problem as you, or ones that know far more than memention those bolts backing out. Now you say it only smokes when It starts up right. Or it has set for a while. Put pressure on the sytem and see if it drops and you are loosing coolant. Like you said you are losing small amounts of coolant. This leads me to believe a small crack has formed and it is barly seeping into your engine.
Once you put presure on the sytem with one of those testers you will know. Try it when its hot and when its not. Always do what is easiest before you go and drop a tranny struggle getting a flywheel off and then arnt able to get it back together.
Once you put presure on the sytem with one of those testers you will know. Try it when its hot and when its not. Always do what is easiest before you go and drop a tranny struggle getting a flywheel off and then arnt able to get it back together.
#14
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iron failures can cause intermittent issues like this depending on how far you drive and how long the car sits. when an iron fails it creates a one way check valve into the cooling system that doesn't always seal up the combustion chamber to the cooling system.
it's hard to describe without showing you a picture of a broken seal wall. your best bet is to do the bubble test when the engine is flooded to be sure it is a failed iron/seal.
why people keep calling them coolant seal failures is beyond me, i have never seen just a coolant seal fail...
it's hard to describe without showing you a picture of a broken seal wall. your best bet is to do the bubble test when the engine is flooded to be sure it is a failed iron/seal.
why people keep calling them coolant seal failures is beyond me, i have never seen just a coolant seal fail...
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im not loosing it until i unflood the car. (poping the egi injector fuse out and cranking it) Then Sometimes it will smoke for maybe 5min or so or sometimes it wont stop smoking until i shut the car off (which drains it ALOT like 1/2 the radiator). Which causes it to flood again. What is this bubble thing you mentioned? whats happeneing?
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I was telling someone about it and they said my seals are going. The car did sit for about 5 or 6 days due to me not having a radiator fan. So im thinking it may be that irons thing. What is required to fix that?
#21
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Take a look at this page:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/cooling.htm
Go down to the bottom of the page and read about the "bubble test".
Long story short: With the car cold, remove the rad cap and start the car. Look into the filler neck. Do you see a steady stream of bubbles that increases when you rev the car? That's a sure sign the o-rings are no longer sealing (bad seal, cracked iron, warped iron/housing, etc.) and that combustion gasses are being pushed into the cooling system.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/cooling.htm
Go down to the bottom of the page and read about the "bubble test".
Long story short: With the car cold, remove the rad cap and start the car. Look into the filler neck. Do you see a steady stream of bubbles that increases when you rev the car? That's a sure sign the o-rings are no longer sealing (bad seal, cracked iron, warped iron/housing, etc.) and that combustion gasses are being pushed into the cooling system.
#22
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ill try it tommarow, its to dark out now. Im taking it to a local rotary shop tuesday. Im thining of just doing a 13bt swap instead of a rebuild. I found a motor/tranny/wiring harness for about 900.
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