You better get a pretty bad-*** motor under the hood since the car looks that good. Are those 17" polished Cobra R rims?

 

Check out www.egrproducts.com

I got a Ford Contour alternator that is 120 Amps stock rewound, whatever they do , to 200 Amps.

I believe you need to have 2 of the same of the batteries, both near same dates of manufacturing.

Also get the 280 amp Continuous Duty Solenoid to charge both batteries properly.

I get no power dropping, or dimmage at any time. I'm also doing near 3000 watts RMS from my radio.

Good luck with what u do

LoS

 

If you're wanting to do a good sound system, then you need to upgrade your Alternator before you do dual batteries. In DB drags, and any major arena, you keep your car running when you get metered. Only thing a battery is good for is playing your system when you're car is off.

 

double post

 

I happened upon a 200amp SurePower isolator and recieved my second battery today. So I have an Optima Yellow Top and a Red Top now going in the car whenever the midwest blizzard decides to melt.

How well did that Contour alternator fit?

 

The Contour alternator fit like a champ. They supplied me with some thick and long heavy duty washers, but i had to add 2 skinny ones on the left side where it mounts on the motor. I couldn't use the right side bar, that black that is used to adjust the belt. Once You get the left side in, I had to make another right side bar for it to work. I had pics of it somewhere, and as soon as i find em, ill post them here.


LoS

PS I just woke up I prob not making any sense at all

 

Ooh, and is this the standard amperage for the contour? Cuz those were some small cars. How much did it cost? Or wait, didn't you say you had it rewound?

 

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I had to dig around on my old website to find a link, but here you go:

http://www.exit13b.com/exit13b.com/C...nder_boost.htm

That page is 3 years old now, but I took some closeups to help others who might want to try this. I just used two alternators -- the main system is exactly as stock, and the second alternator runs the rear battery and all the accessories. This is far superior to a hot wound alternator, which typically lasts one season or so (very frustrating after spending $800 on average for one!). Battery isolators have an average drop of 1.6 Volts or more (2 x Vpn -- the barrier voltage of two diodes back to back), and rigging switches and soleniods can be very messy, expensive, and a huge pain in the #)($. As alluded to earlier, a battery is nothing more than a resistive load to your alternator once the car is runnning -- so parallel is not the answer. Even two identical batteries of the same brand is not sufficient. You should purchase matched sets! Otherwise, the internal resistance of each battery may differ and cause drain between eachother. Anyways, enough on why most of the solutions suck... This setup uses another mazda alt in place of the air pump, and uses the RB dual alt pulley above to allow the second alt to pick up the belt safely without the water pump slipping. Cost? $50? Maybe less. It will take a few hours of your time to figure out how to shim things perfectly, but it is not very bad. You also need to wire up a switched ignition to the alt field terminal, and a sense wire from the battery (same function as the idiot light ignition feed to the stock alternator). I don't read this forum much lately, so PM me if you need me to jump back in an clear any of this up.

 

I was told the stock contour amp did 120 amps. IT was rewound to 200 amps. Having 2 stock alternators still won't do over 180 amps. I've had this alternator for about 8 months right now, and its working great still.