Simply:

1) can driving a turbo fc without any exhaust a short distance out of pure necessity cause any ill effects?


2) can switching a motor the has been long using castrol to mobile1 or redline cause any damage. i know its a no-no for pistons but what about rotaries?

 

what do u mean by no exhaust ?? if you mean NOTHING AT ALL coming off the turbo, id say you run the risk of the ehxaust melting something probably, as it will be shooting straight at the fire wall....... how far of a distance?? if its like move the car 50 ft it might be ok if theres nothing near where the ehxaust is going to shoot

if theres not even a turbo on there( no manifold at all...) then ehxuast will shoot right at the side of the car! and prolly melt the wiring above it....

if you at least have a down pipe or the first precat you could drive it all day with out problems.

 

At the very least your ears will hate you.

 

I don't think you should even start it if its just a turbo with nothing coming off. The exhuast temps are pretty crazy coming straight off the turbo.

 

I bought it out of state and it will have to be driven onto a truck to ship it to me, or they will charge a huge "inoperational vehicle fee" or something of the sort.

 

you didnt answer what it has? does it have any ehxaust at all??, does it even have a turbo bolted on??

 

maybe not from the turbo but with a open d/p it will be loud as ****...it will shake everything in the car and everything around you....the best feeling is when your under a tunnel at 6500 omg your body is just vibrating and your head feels like its gonna explode and everyone around you cant hear anything but your LOUD *** ROTARY

 

drive it on the ramp...youll be fine.

 

Yeah, driving on the ramp should be ok. I guess it wont have time to heat up too much. That or go to a junk yard and get the first section of exhaust.

 

yeah in my honest opinion if i had to do this, id risk it..... haha

 

yea your cool drive it that far as far as oil you can switch to red line you just cant switch from synthetic to conventional

 

Switching oil is no biggie.
Maybe do two changes close together, to purge the mixture that is caused by the residual oil in the oil cooler.

If you still have a functioning MOP, you should use an oil that has a low ash content & burns clean.

 

It has a turbo installed but no downpipe ect.

Ill just tell them to drive it up and shut it off asap, if i were near it i would just put on a dp(or drive it home) but im not.


As for the oil anyone else?

 

i fired my 6port turbo wiht no exhaust and it ran for 20 minutes or so with no melting or such.. i even drove to my friends house like this.. less than a mile though.. i just took it easy.

 

I know Icemark posted a list of the characteristics (including ash content) of all major oils. Castrol GTX was the cleanest burning dino juice, while the only synths as good or better were AMSoil and Royal Purple. There were some that were close and could be used but I forgot which they were and lost the link. I've heard that Mobile1 is ok for rotaries, though, and not as insanely priced as AMSoil. I'll try to find that link to make sure.

 

If it's just driving it onto a truck, you should be fine. Keep it out of boost, but if it's just a minute or so, at idle/low RPM, it shouldn't damage anything.

-=Russ=-

 

Anyone with more info on this? id really like to know.

 

meh, I ran my N/A with no manifold at all for a short time. other than fire shooting out the side of the block and i thought my head was going to explode, nothing bad happened.

 

well i ran my car (87 TII) with no exhaust. i disconnected it from the cat and it ran fine..i got more boost, it sounded like a lawnmower in boost, and got pulled over but it was fine.
the link you are talking about is a sticky. but the only synthetics you should use are royal purple, amsoil, mobil 1, and idemitsu rotary engine oil. i have a friend in japan that uses only idemitsu and he sends me some so that i can use it..it works so good.