drive slow rx7 reacts slow???
#1
87 Mazda Rx-7 Mods**91 JDM
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drive slow rx7 reacts slow???
Ok my car overheated and i have been driving it slow while before the boost starts to kick in so my question is i pushed it a little bit cuz still afraid of overheating again and it felt slow could the overheat drain it's power or just driving it like a grandmom made it slow?????? any help please??
#2
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Overheating will usually cause you to blow a water seal in the engine. Chaeck your coolant for oil or a gas smell. Also check your exhaust for a sweet smell, that would be coolant entering the combustion chamber and burning. If any of these are present, then it is time for a rebuild.
#5
RIP Icemark
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lol, rebuild, no one likes to hear it, but if you lost compression you need some new seals,and because you overheated it, i wouldnt be suprised if you warped one or both of the housings,
DONT EVER OVERHEAT A ROTARY
not trying to be a dick so dont think that, but now you know, as soon as that needle goes past halfway, pull the fu** over
but first, either do a compression test your self or have someone who knows what he/she is doing do it for you
DONT EVER OVERHEAT A ROTARY
not trying to be a dick so dont think that, but now you know, as soon as that needle goes past halfway, pull the fu** over
but first, either do a compression test your self or have someone who knows what he/she is doing do it for you
#6
87 Mazda Rx-7 Mods**91 JDM
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damn!!what do u mean by warped the housing?? and i saw this kit to do a compression test at advance is it hard to do it how does it work??
#7
Sleeper but still slow
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Originally Posted by Ravingecu21
if i lost compression how do i gain it back???
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#8
87 Mazda Rx-7 Mods**91 JDM
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yo I still refuse i need a rebuild until i see proof which i haven't yet! no white smoke or no coolant smell and i havent been lossing coolant latley
#9
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just pull one of the plugs on the first rotor crank it over
listen for 3 loud PSH PSH PSH, then to the rear rotor,
they should be fairly loud,
if one rotor is more quite than the other,
then you have a bad seal.
listen for 3 loud PSH PSH PSH, then to the rear rotor,
they should be fairly loud,
if one rotor is more quite than the other,
then you have a bad seal.
#11
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it all depends. on the shape your motor was in already.
I would check compres. if that turns out good then start at square 1
pull your thermostat.
flush your coolant ect. ect ect.
I would check compres. if that turns out good then start at square 1
pull your thermostat.
flush your coolant ect. ect ect.
#12
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well i dunno if this is what you mean, but i have a t2, and its about as fast as a geo metro until i get it above 3000 rpm (this is how i avoid speeding tickets)
if your compression is gone. . . you need a rebuild
if your compression is gone. . . you need a rebuild
#13
TANSTAFL
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Originally Posted by RE_GTUs
just pull one of the plugs on the first rotor crank it over
listen for 3 loud PSH PSH PSH, then to the rear rotor,
they should be fairly loud,
if one rotor is more quite than the other,
then you have a bad seal.
listen for 3 loud PSH PSH PSH, then to the rear rotor,
they should be fairly loud,
if one rotor is more quite than the other,
then you have a bad seal.
you do not compare the rear rotor with the front. first you take out a plug from a rotor. if the 3 wooshes are not even, then an apex seal is broken or missing.
better yet, get a piston engine compression tester and use that. there is a writeup on rotaryresurrection.com on how to do this.
as far as seeing proof... unless your apex seal finds it's way past the cats you won't see any proof until you pull the engine apart. by now you should have figured out that a blown coolant seal isn't the only reason for a rebuild.
Last edited by alexdimen; 06-10-06 at 09:33 PM.
#14
Sleeper but still slow
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Originally Posted by Ravingecu21
yo I still refuse i need a rebuild until i see proof which i haven't yet! no white smoke or no coolant smell and i havent been lossing coolant latley
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