Sweet. IT always pays to be safe. We try to find pretty desolate, large trucking yards that seem to be empty at nite. There are quite a few but they are about a 25-30 min drive. Well worth it as we do not put anyone else in danger and have plenty of room if we botch up.

I cant wait to get this car put back together. Ugggg, I got it in pieces. Like no harness' or anything installed. Its all there, but in hundreds of pieces.

ok back to the OP's topic lol.

 

any drifters wanna meet in va, i know alot of places to go

 

****, when the weather breaks, Im down for a drive. I love travelin to meets and such. Im sure I can get some 240 guys (1 with a RHD) to come too. Dunno anyone else with a 7 around me lol.

 

yeah but dont forget its always better then have a bit more money JUST IN CASE !!
but thats the problem, most ppl think that this is a 10k swap for a 400rwhp daily driver. but its not.
good luck in your project , but priorities first... the house & the rx7 loving wife !!!

 

i think tha ti am the only one in my area with a fc

 

I live over here in Richmond, VA and slide often with all my buddies. I'm the only FC drifter here that I know of. Everyone else goes to the autox. All my buddies I slide with have 240s with either KA or SR powa, and they just don't understand the ROTARY POWA!
Nearly every week or two we try to go scouting for vacant lots, but not too often are we very successful.

Wanna be dk, PM me if you ever decide to come down to RVA sometime... it would be nice to drift with another fc

 

Yea thats why taking me so long and now it may take longer i just found out that my t2 is not right, i dont think its blown but it seems like one of the rotor bearings is off or worn and its making a funny noise im thinking of selling it for about $1700 but i dont know i may just keep it and rebuild it myself but i want to drift my fc so bad my buddy started doing it already so i really want to do it

 

well you can use the shift lock method, i find it works really good. basically aproach the corner at a reasonable speed in one gear higher than you normally drift that corner with. as you apoarch the corner , toss it and without doing a heel toe, push the clutch in and down shift to say 2nd gear if you were coming from 3rd. this will throw you sideways no problem. or you can always clutch kick but its not as fun

 

if you take off the plastic ebrake cover, there is a long black hex nut with a slot in it, turn this clockwise to tighten the ebrake to your liking.

 

If you adjust it too tight it'll make the brakes drag.

Some good pads will help with ebrake drifting though.

You may also need to replace the cables if they're old and stretch too much.

 

some good clutch kicks with an NA are ok.. There was a guy driftinf an NA no issues and was having a eaiser time getting around the track then I was. Although I was able to carry through the longer corners with my t2. Basically you need to try different methods till you find something that works for you and your setup. My first time out i was using agressive faint drift in my fc with a little power over. I changed my setup and my second time out I used power over with some ebrake. I was also getting into the downshift/clutch lock drift. I like this better with a welded diff. My fave is light faint with some power over. seems for me to be the easiest.

Mark

 

you should have teh e-brake adjusted so you can leave the handle up but the brakes are not engaged, it is alot easyer and quicker if you do that

 

There are these hills here in Portland, Oregon, me w/ 87 TII, my friend who has a fully built and tuned MR2 and a semi modded 86 300ZX were lovin' the drift..... Note first time drifting in the FC, I had a ******' blast but my clutch is hurting so bad! but I think it was well worth it though....

 

that sounds fun, i bet it was frickn' hard driftin' that mr2, the engine swings that around sooo much easyer, you have to counter streer as soon as you feel the slide

 

if any body wants to chit chat about driftn' hit me up on aim, i am really bored

driftking915

 

Yeah he wasn't doing to much of the drifting, he did a couple of corners but he was grippin' most the time, me on the other end ******' swingin' like crazy....... I have yet to learn how to use compression to get the car sideways, I'm going to wait until I can get an open area to try it in..... Not really many places here for all that...

 

still wrong, 20BTT FTW, YEAH!

 

kid, get to know your **** first, withought part numbers, yes, you wont find **** on replacements, WITH part #'s, you can order a whole new FC chassis non assembled if you so desire.

 

No, you USED to be able to buy "bodies in white" (basically just for racing), but they stopped selling those several years ago.

(IIRC they cost something like eight grand)

 

Not realy.

newb + SW20 going sideways = suicide...

At least, that's what a lot of sw20 owners say, haha.

 

keep it on the track boys....

just spend the $$. it's safer for everyone...

 

wasnt talking about "bodies in white, i was talinkg about SEPARATE sections of the unibody that are available for purchase if you know what to do.

This was also metioned in another thread but im too lazy to look it up right now.

 

Ah...well, I imagine they're not cheap. And probably easy to damage in the mail...

 

Be careful on the shift lock, it can cause damage to your driveline in a much harsher way than any other technique. AHH i want a welded diff! how do you like it? I love my clutch type, but I have a feeling it will be wearing out after a while. LSD suggestions?

I'm in the process of building my car for sliding now. The 'ALL POWER' idea was my first plan, but I've now decided nearly all the heavy dough will be put into the suspension.
http://www.Carster.com/skizzayfc3s

 

Care to divulge what said parts cost from Mazda vs. the Nissan parts in question?

How about over $1800 for 1 quarter panel......

Not exactly "affordable" considering you can buy an entire high mileage N/A car for less....


Get to know the person before throwing out demeaning insults like that....you're new here, Ill cut you some slack.

How does having parts numbers make dis-continued parts magically appear? Mazda doesn't manufacture blank uni-body chassis' anymore. Even if you have a part number for it, it doesn't exist in their inventory.

Not to mention that the piece you're talking about is nearly $10,000....maybe you should get to know your **** first....

So tell me "all knowing" sir, how does a person aquire a brand new, blank OEM chassis that is no longer produced?