i know this is probably a repost and i did search. but what i want to know is what is your suspension setup and what other mods you have done to your fc for drifting.
thanks

 

surprised nobody freaked and said search!!!!!!



rear steer eliminator bushings, stiff as you can get in the rear for springs, and worn out rear tires with spare rims and go practice.

you will dent your car, know that going in.

 

thanks but what i meant to ask was what brands people are using and things like that. i am more interested in a list of other drifters mods.

 

Like what?&nbsp Suspension components are typical off-the-shelf stuff, so there's not real "drift only" parts you can buy...unless we're talking cheap rear tires.


-Ted

 

you could buy a drift driver, like dr ho

mike

 

I ain't paying for no HO.


-Ted

 

^ this guys pretty funny

 

, how about a new alex?

 

I hate to sound like the assh%le that I am , but if you don't know what set-up your car needs to drift well you shouldn't be drifting in a prepared car or wasting your time/money preparing a car when you could be practicing driving.

You must be right on top of vehicle dynamics to drift well. For now, just get the hardest, worst tires you can find and put them on your car so that the limit of adhesion is so low you have low speed drifts and you and others live through your learning process.

Professional drifters set their cars up as close to grip race cars as their skills allow since drift judges give points for speed of drift as well as the visual spectical.

But, for now- just get some 100,000 mile warranty limo tires and have at it on DESERTED roads- that helped me learn vehicle dynamics in my 1st car (not that I can even call myself a "drifter"...)

 

Well basically it all depends on how much $$$ you ahve
my car is basically a 87 n/a with intake, exhaust, and soon to have a nice set of Tokico illumina shocks with some RB springs . But rear toe's eliminator bushings are a must...

 

i know what it needed i was just trying to see what brands of parts people are using thats all nothing else. all of what you guys said i already read by searching.

 

this is the kind of response i am looking for

 

if you are hard up for JDM get some KG/MM's or some Tein springs. otherwise soem plain ole suspension techniques will be fine. anything but a progressive spring. you want a good linear spring.rogressives will work, linears will work better. after that get some good shocks. i prefer adjustables but fixed damper will work fine too. if you go adjustable go with some tokicos, but if you go fixed get something else, ive heard that tokico non-adjustable are kinda under dampened. throw some strut tower bars around,front and rear would be great. Cusco makes some nice ones. get an LSD and youll be set. stock will work if you can find one,but if you want a Kaaz or Cusco be prepared to spend major bank like 900 bucks or so. thats pretty much it as far as a basic suspension setup goes.

but ill be honest, if you are new to drifting leave your car stock until you learn to control the car well at low speeds first. its like Blue TII said, these supsension mods will raise the limits of the car, but if your limits as a driver arent equal to the car then you can and probably will hurt yourself or someone else. all driving is this way but in drifting its especialy ture....its 10% car and 90% driver. the thing that will improve your sliding the most is seat time. you gotta walk before you run, learn slow and then work yor way up man.

 

thanks

 

Jesus, is this what this forum has become?

 

Okay, here's my input...

You need the car's suspension STIFF - if you've seen the D1 Japan guys set-ups, their suspensions are pretty damn stiff.&nbsp This means most off-the-shelf aftermarket replacement springs are too soft.&nbsp Only coilover kits are able to run really high springs rates (over 300 lb-in) that'll keep the car stable.&nbsp This means going Ground Control or K2RD or equivalent.

Dampers need to be able to control these stiffer shocks, so you're limited to more expensive units - almost always adjustable types.&nbsp The KYB AGX, Tokico Illuminas can handle the stiffer springs when set at the higher adjustment settings.&nbsp The drift car I help tune runs Koni race shocks, and these can handle higher springs rates also.&nbsp Most of the non-adjustable dampers cannot handle damping the high springs rates.

Most of the (Japan) coilover kits are popular, but watch the spring rates - some are a little soft.&nbsp Tein, Cusco, JIC are some of the more popular brands.

Sway bars can be replaced with aftermarket units, as these are stiff enough.&nbsp Examples are Suspension Techniques, Racing Beat, Eibach.

Anything else to stiffen the chassis ill help you.&nbsp This includes strut tower bars and polyurethance bushings (Energy Suspension).&nbsp the stiffer car will help you "feel" the car reacting and allow your steering/brake inputs to affect the car quicker.

LSD - one of the most important things you can do with the car.&nbsp The stock clutch-type LSD is most likely shot, and the later viscous LSD doesn't react well.&nbsp LSD's are offered by KAAZ and Cusco, as FC Drifter has mentioned.

If you're running in colder climates, this might not be a problem for you, but in Hawaii we're running into cooling problems.&nbsp An upgrade radiator is recommended, as high, sustained engine RPM elevates water temps pretty quickly.

Tires are important.&nbsp You need the best tires you can buy for your fronts.&nbsp You can run crap tires in back.&nbsp We got a posse that actually goes around to service stations and tire shops looking in their dumpsters for discarded tires that they can use.&nbsp This keeps costs down for the rears.&nbsp Having light rims helps, as they react faster in transition.

It would be nice to have a roll bar/cage in the car, but most people are not this crazy.&nbsp This helps to stiffen the chassis, so that's always a good thing.

Brakes become important as you get better.&nbsp The better the brakes are, the quicker you're on and off the brake pedal.&nbsp We're able to roast a set of aftermarket (Axxis Metalmasters?) brake pads up front on out track.&nbsp You don't need a set of race pads, but a good upgrade set (Hawk HPS) should be adequate.&nbsp With that said, stainless steel brake lines will help with brake pedal feel.

Racing seat - straight out of Initial D - as you get good, a good racing seat and harness will keep you planted when hanging the turns.&nbsp People don't realize how much easier it is to drive the car when you're not sliding in your seat!

Aftermarket steering wheel - the ultimate would be a suede steering when with good gloves.&nbsp This will give you great grip on the steering and minimize slipping with your hands.

Power is always good - torque gets you in and out of trouble sometimes.&nbsp Try to get the most power out of your engine if possible.



-Ted

 

Uhh... last time i checked a lot of the pros, do things to there rides that normaly wouldn't happen to grip cars. Like squeezing on tires that are smaller than the rims. etc. They do practcaly the opposite of what is considerd "good" for grip. Camber angle, spring and shock hardness. etc. Most Pro cars are built to slide.

 

I don't know...

 

why did you ask this ... If you wanted to know brands?

Its easier to just ask what you really want to learn.

 

i thought suspension setup would have included brands. i dont know why i did not say that first but it is too late now. and if i could delete this thread i would since i did not get much help. but thanks to the people who did help.

 

Another good drift quote I heard
"drifting is to driving as dancing is to walking"

 

My experience its more skill based anyway. If you ever slide through Mid Mo give me a hollar, I can drift even my bucket of **** Explorer to some extent.

 

if you are new b and want to practice use stock
if you are really good then u'll be fine with stock

 

I guess I wasted enough of my time on this thread...


-Ted