bingoboy

and this is why its not worth pulling your engine just to have it street ported. wait to street port your engine till you wanna rebuild it.

ronny76

Mazdaspeed7:
The MegaSquirt works very well.
I`m in the midle of setting it up for the dualtable code now,so I`m not sure how that will work out yet.
I have no regrets getting the MS,have been driving my car quite alot this summer with the MS,and it worked very well.

No,for the 6p engine:
You can get more than 20-25hp of a streetport job,as long the ex.sleeves are changed and the ex.port is ported.
With the propper exhaust system and intake,I think it should be possible to put out over 200hp.
Cheers
Ronny

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

To get back to the original question as to what the dream 6-port N/A would be lets throw out any comments relating to superchargers of any kind. No turbos either. In fact lets just rule out NOS as well since it is only good for a few seconds at a time. Here is what I would do.

'89-'91 n/a rotors: they are the lightest and have the highest compression ratio.

pre-'86 13B eccentric shaft. No bypass pellet or use the later e-shafts and use the pellet mod plug.

Lighten and balance the entire rotating assembly further.

Obviously ported 6 port front and rear housings. Do the streetport. Don't waste your time with a bridge on the 6 port engines. If you still want the actuation system to work then use Pineapple sleeves. If not then epoxy a radius into the runners to duplicate the effect when they are open. The sleeves themselves do take up some area and if you use epoxy and not the sleeves then you have more airflow area.

T-II intermediate housing. You can port these larger than the n/a intermediate housings. I've had both and can verify this.

Any rotor housings. Remove the factory sleeves and install some of my custom sleeves and then port them larger. No more turbulence=more power.

Custom made intake manifold. Custom upper only if retaining the sleeves, custom upper and lower if not.

Port the rotors! Do a search you'll find it.

Single throttle plate. There is less turbulence through one plate than there is through three.

Standalone ecu. Gotta program in all the variables.

Ram air box. Just design one that works.

Long primary exhaust with no cats and a straight through muffler. Make sure the header pipes don't turn for at least 3" out of the motor. Collect the 2 pipes at around 100 inches in length. Have the collector start at a 2 1/2" and taper to a 3" and out through the muffler.

Aluminum flywheel, carbon fiber driveshaft. The lighter the better.

4 Blaster coils and 3 MSD boxes (1 leading, 2 trailing).

200 rwhp has already been achieved w/o nos and still retaining the factory ecu/afm and vdi intake. This should work immensely better.

That's how I'd do it but I'm sure some others would do it different.

renns

Ronny76: Could you describe your MS configuration and settings in more detail? Specifically, is your setup running peak&hold injectors? If so, what are your PWM settings, and do you have the flyback mod performed on the board?

I got my '86 n/a running on MS last night, but I'm off a ways on the map yet. The nice thing is, I've wired MS through the inside of a spare ECU, so I can swap a stock ECU back into the harness and have the car running back on the stock system in about 30 seconds.

It's great to hear you are having good results with the MS. I plan to try the dual-table code soon as well. Need to recompile with appropriate map sensor first.