All of a sudden my door open light on the dash stays on as does the key buzzer and interior light - both door switches are good and operating correctly. Does the wiring go to the CPU from the door switch?, or where? Bloody car has been going into menopause or something the last few weeks, as soon as I fix one thing, something else goes wrong. Parking brake cable went last week - no biggie, huh - try 2 hrs mechanic's time plus mine to get the old one out and replace - everything seized and damn near impossible to get at. Parking brake fixed and now big leak in p/s pressure line, rusted away near rad - not too bad - just cut out the bad part and put in a piece of high pressure hose and clamps, but more money - then went for e-test and failed as bad as you can - co% allowed .76 - reading 6.64% - back to the mechanic - new set of plugs check of all settings and timing retarded to O - re-test and passed at .73 - re-set timing and away we go! Which brings me back to my current problem - should I pull the CPU and do the re-solder thing, or does the wiring go somewhere else? I swear I will get my .45 and shoot the bitch if she pulls anything else on me in the next few weeks.
Ian
Oh yeah, it's a bone stock 87 n/a.

 

In short,yes.

 

The door triggers go to both the CPU and the lights directly.

Is this a GXL or T2??? First use the test below, and then if your having probles you should re-solder the CPU as the delay circuit sometimes has problems.

If it is a Base/SE/Sport, just unplug the CPU and see if you have the same problem. If you do have the domelights still on with the CPU unplugged, you have a pinched or shorted wire some place. Most likely spot is at the pinswitch itself or at the drivers kick panel.

If the problem goes away with the CPU unplugged, then yes re-solder or replace the CPU.