Doin it over, more Q's, BAC/FPR selenoid
03-10-05, 12:42 AM
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Doin it over, more Q's, BAC/FPR selenoid
Alright, I have bought all new bolts/nuts gaskets and a oil injector spider vac line set from mazda. This sunday Im putting it all back together to solve my vac leaks once and for all. Wish me luck.
-When torquing, how do I go about the criss cross pattern? Like a star shape pattern, like with wheel lugs?
-With the BAC, IM thinking of running coolant through it so that it can act like the thermowax on the throttle plates before I did the throttle body mod. Now becuase im not running coolant through it, the thermowax does not activate. I have sealed it shut by turning the allen screw so that its closed all the way now so that I don't have a vac leak. WIth the coolant running through it, it will heat up if I open it up more and close itself after a while, making your idle go down. I think this will work awesome for cold starts.
So, question is, how much do I open the valve for the thermowax to close it all the way?
Should I just play around with it and figure it out?
-I've been told not to use RTV at all. Im going to try that. But with the TB-Plenum gasket (plastic about 1cm thick.) does it seal well? I was thinking of using rtv on that, or should I just torque it to spec?
So what do you guys think, give me advice now, cause sunday is the day where I decide to completley junk this engine if this don't work. Throw me pointers!
-When torquing, how do I go about the criss cross pattern? Like a star shape pattern, like with wheel lugs?
-With the BAC, IM thinking of running coolant through it so that it can act like the thermowax on the throttle plates before I did the throttle body mod. Now becuase im not running coolant through it, the thermowax does not activate. I have sealed it shut by turning the allen screw so that its closed all the way now so that I don't have a vac leak. WIth the coolant running through it, it will heat up if I open it up more and close itself after a while, making your idle go down. I think this will work awesome for cold starts.
So, question is, how much do I open the valve for the thermowax to close it all the way?
Should I just play around with it and figure it out?
-I've been told not to use RTV at all. Im going to try that. But with the TB-Plenum gasket (plastic about 1cm thick.) does it seal well? I was thinking of using rtv on that, or should I just torque it to spec?
So what do you guys think, give me advice now, cause sunday is the day where I decide to completley junk this engine if this don't work. Throw me pointers!
03-10-05, 01:39 AM
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Oh yea, with the FPR selenoid, can I use any of the other selenoids on my rats nest, as long as its hooked up to the orange harness? That was my final question.
03-10-05, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
-I've been told not to use RTV at all.
Really? I don't even use gaskets anymore, only RTV and I never have any vac leaks, oh well heh.
I am a big silicone advocate because it has helped me a lot, so my advice is use a gasket AND silicone and use a bunch of silicone. Let it dry for 24 hrs before driving, torque everything in an outside/oustide moving inward pattern slightly more than the spec in the FSM (torque wrenches are inaccurate at slow settings usually), and make sure all vac lines are good and anything you've removed from the vac system you capped.
Other than that, I don't really have any advice.
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