It doesnt want to turn on, please help
08-01-10, 11:37 AM
#26
Rotary
Thread Starter
Did you do this test on both the old and new coils? Also, are you certain that the Black/Yellow wire at the leading coil has battery voltage with/key to on?
The coil only needs three things to fire if the coil itself is in working order.
1. properly grounded
2. battery voltage on B/Y wire
3. G/Y goes from 0 to 5 volts when engine turns over.
The coil only needs three things to fire if the coil itself is in working order.
1. properly grounded
2. battery voltage on B/Y wire
3. G/Y goes from 0 to 5 volts when engine turns over.
Well im going to look at it again then to just be safe...
08-02-10, 09:19 AM
#27
Rotary
Thread Starter
Ok still nothing. I charged the battery all night just to be safe. I changed all the coils, changed all the fuses insided the car, relays fuses and still no spark.
idk what else to do....
idk what else to do....
08-02-10, 09:32 AM
#29
BDC Motorsports
Is the tachometer bouncing while cranking?
If you want to physically verify spark on the leading coil, yank one of the two plug boots off and crank for about 2 seconds. You should see the spark "bolt of lightning" arc across to the battery.
Secondly, even if the leading coil were loused up, it would still attempt to start on the trailings (assuming they work) albeit with some difficulty.
I don't think your problem is no spark per say; I think it's something else.
B
If you want to physically verify spark on the leading coil, yank one of the two plug boots off and crank for about 2 seconds. You should see the spark "bolt of lightning" arc across to the battery.
Secondly, even if the leading coil were loused up, it would still attempt to start on the trailings (assuming they work) albeit with some difficulty.
I don't think your problem is no spark per say; I think it's something else.
B
08-02-10, 09:50 AM
#30
Rotary
Thread Starter
And all the main fuses on te engine bay.
Is the tachometer bouncing while cranking?
If you want to physically verify spark on the leading coil, yank one of the two plug boots off and crank for about 2 seconds. You should see the spark "bolt of lightning" arc across to the battery.
Secondly, even if the leading coil were loused up, it would still attempt to start on the trailings (assuming they work) albeit with some difficulty.
I don't think your problem is no spark per say; I think it's something else.
B
If you want to physically verify spark on the leading coil, yank one of the two plug boots off and crank for about 2 seconds. You should see the spark "bolt of lightning" arc across to the battery.
Secondly, even if the leading coil were loused up, it would still attempt to start on the trailings (assuming they work) albeit with some difficulty.
I don't think your problem is no spark per say; I think it's something else.
B
Hey Bryan,
i was with emmanuel this weekend, trying to get it to run, He can actully vouch on all what we have done. We have checked to see if the coils were firing and after changing the Leading and Trailing coil there was no jump at all...
08-02-10, 10:46 AM
#31
1). ......
2). You might want to try to reground the coils, especially the leading coil, to the fender by removing the mounting bracket and sand the contact points between the bracket and fender to asure a proper ground is evident.
3). Also, check the B/W wire at any of the emission solenoids or sensors for battery voltage w/key to on.
4). Lastly, disconnect the plug to the AFM and try to start the car and verify if there is spark once again and then w/the plug to the AFM disconnected check for voltage w/key to "on" on the Brown/White wire of the Boost sensor w/its plug removed and it should read about 5 volts. Then plug the AFM back in and recheck the voltage once again on the Boost sensor Br/W wire and see if it stays the same or not. Got this idea from HAILERS. If there is a short within the AFM that could possibly interfere w/the coils from sparking.
5). If this achieves no positive results then disconnect the plug to the CAS and check the ohms between the upper right and lower right terminals of the CAS plug and then do the same thing for the upper left and lower left terminals and the readings should fall between 110- 210 ohms.
2). You might want to try to reground the coils, especially the leading coil, to the fender by removing the mounting bracket and sand the contact points between the bracket and fender to asure a proper ground is evident.
3). Also, check the B/W wire at any of the emission solenoids or sensors for battery voltage w/key to on.
4). Lastly, disconnect the plug to the AFM and try to start the car and verify if there is spark once again and then w/the plug to the AFM disconnected check for voltage w/key to "on" on the Brown/White wire of the Boost sensor w/its plug removed and it should read about 5 volts. Then plug the AFM back in and recheck the voltage once again on the Boost sensor Br/W wire and see if it stays the same or not. Got this idea from HAILERS. If there is a short within the AFM that could possibly interfere w/the coils from sparking.
5). If this achieves no positive results then disconnect the plug to the CAS and check the ohms between the upper right and lower right terminals of the CAS plug and then do the same thing for the upper left and lower left terminals and the readings should fall between 110- 210 ohms.
08-02-10, 11:08 AM
#32
Rotary
Thread Starter
1). ......
2). You might want to try to reground the coils, especially the leading coil, to the fender by removing the mounting bracket and sand the contact points between the bracket and fender to asure a proper ground is evident.
3). Also, check the b/w wire at any of the emission solenoids or sensors for battery voltage w/key to on.
4). Lastly, disconnect the plug to the afm and try to start the car and verify if there is spark once again and then w/the plug to the afm disconnected check for voltage w/key to "on" on the brown/white wire of the boost sensor w/its plug removed and it should read about 5 volts. Then plug the afm back in and recheck the voltage once again on the boost sensor br/w wire and see if it stays the same or not. Got this idea from hailers. If there is a short within the afm that could possibly interfere w/the coils from sparking.
5). If this achieves no positive results then disconnect the plug to the cas and check the ohms between the upper right and lower right terminals of the cas plug and then do the same thing for the upper left and lower left terminals and the readings should fall between 110- 210 ohms.
2). You might want to try to reground the coils, especially the leading coil, to the fender by removing the mounting bracket and sand the contact points between the bracket and fender to asure a proper ground is evident.
3). Also, check the b/w wire at any of the emission solenoids or sensors for battery voltage w/key to on.
4). Lastly, disconnect the plug to the afm and try to start the car and verify if there is spark once again and then w/the plug to the afm disconnected check for voltage w/key to "on" on the brown/white wire of the boost sensor w/its plug removed and it should read about 5 volts. Then plug the afm back in and recheck the voltage once again on the boost sensor br/w wire and see if it stays the same or not. Got this idea from hailers. If there is a short within the afm that could possibly interfere w/the coils from sparking.
5). If this achieves no positive results then disconnect the plug to the cas and check the ohms between the upper right and lower right terminals of the cas plug and then do the same thing for the upper left and lower left terminals and the readings should fall between 110- 210 ohms.
08-02-10, 02:58 PM
#34
Rotary
Thread Starter
08-02-10, 10:57 PM
#37
Rotary
Thread Starter
08-03-10, 11:28 AM
#39
If you went through each step and found "nothing" out of the norm then I would doublecheck the grounds. Just by chance is the battery holding a proper charge as in at least 12 volts for if it falls below a certain level then things associated w/the electrical system could become problematic. You also might want to check the pins of the ECU and compare them to spec found within the FSM.
08-03-10, 11:38 AM
#41
Have you checked the B/Y and G/Y wires related to the leading coil to see if they are performing as they should? Does the B/W wire that comes out of the Main relay and serves all the emission solenoids and various sensors have battery voltage w/key to on? Have you verified that the ECU is receiving voltage at pin 3I from the Main relay? Have you proved that the Engine fuse is good and the Main relay is in proper working order? Does the CAS ohm out properly?
08-03-10, 11:46 AM
#42
Rotary
Thread Starter
Have you checked the B/Y and G/Y wires related to the leading coil to see if they are performing as they should? Does the B/W wire that comes out of the Main relay and serves all the emission solenoids and various sensors have battery voltage w/key to on? Have you verified that the ECU is receiving voltage at pin 3I from the Main relay? Have you proved that the Engine fuse is good and the Main relay is in proper working order? Does the CAS ohm out properly?
I have changed computers just to be safe but nothing...
08-03-10, 11:52 AM
#43
EDIT: Another thing you could do is to do a continuity test on the G/Y wire. Also, as suggested by BDC did you try to start the car w/the leading coil disconnected and relying solely on the trailing coil?
08-04-10, 10:06 AM
#44
Rotary
Thread Starter
Actually, my last post was directed to another poster, but anyways there are three ground wires that are at the ECU and it would take no more than 30 minutes to reground them and if it didn't fix the stinking problem it is still good to have it done as a preventative measure.
EDIT: Another thing you could do is to do a continuity test on the G/Y wire. Also, as suggested by BDC did you try to start the car w/the leading coil disconnected and relying solely on the trailing coil?
EDIT: Another thing you could do is to do a continuity test on the G/Y wire. Also, as suggested by BDC did you try to start the car w/the leading coil disconnected and relying solely on the trailing coil?
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