so my car doesnt wanna idle right, its sits at about 300 and bounces to 700 a couple of time then dies, ive checked timing, vacuum leaks, tps adjustment, base idle screw on the intake and it just doesnt wanna idle i have to cause a vacuum leak to get it to idle at 700 but then it still doesnt like to run right does any body have any ideas any one ever have the same prob. its a S4 na

 

How is your afm?

 

well sir I don't know what to say, but I do have the same problem as you.
maybe.
my afm isn't working so thats basically why mine won't run, check your electrical :\
that's all I can say.

 

if you rev it past 3k rpm and it runs better its deffinatly your afm

 

i just replaced the afm, i couldnt get the car to start for the longest time check every thing, had power going to where it needs to be, some one said i should test the afm so i unpluged it and it wanted to fire, so then i got a afm, and it runs now could the afm just be a bad one

 

wait did you get a new afm or what? im confused

 

yes i got a used one from a fellow member should i try and get some maf cleaner and use that or will it damage it

 

chech your wiring and make sure it is getting a good connection, and check for a short between the wire connector and your ecu
and you could check your error codes but its harder for an na. http://rx7city.com/ecucodes.htm
its about half way down for fc's

 

im confused were is the check engine light on my car ha ha such a stupid question but ive looked every where and i cant find the single green wire by the left strut bar by the leading coils i found a green connector with two wire but not one wire

 

No, not for series four cars like yours is (check engine light that is). There is a method using two LED lights bought from radio shack for ?? three bucks.

On a series four car there is a two wire, green connector near the left strut tower. You jumper the two sockets with a piece of wire, then observe the two LED lights you install in the six socket, green check connector close to where you found the two socket, green connector. The URL below explains all.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

 

The engine drops to 300rpm and then the BAC tries to maintain a 750rpm speed by going to a higher duty cycle. That explains the run up from 300 to ??? approx 700 rpm you mentioned.
Then after doing this a couple of times your engine dies. Fully expected thing for it to do.

The main problem is your base idle is set toooo looooooowwwwwww. Although the BAC tries to maintain a 750rpm idle, it can't be expected to do the whole work load. That is why the BASE idle needs to be set closer to 750rpm or as close as you can get it.

The BASE idle is done more or less according to the FSM. You first fully heat the engine up. Then while idling, jumoer that green two socket check connector. THAT act puts the BAC in a FIXED duty cycle, so that when you make adjustments to the air screw and or the variable resistor, the BAC won't FIGHT what your doing.

Once you get the BASE idle up as close to 700-750rpm as you can, you pull the jumper out of the INITIAL SET COUPLER and then the engine will most probably chugg up and down three or four times before settleing on an approx 750rpm idle.

It helps just a bit before setting the idle, to have the TPS outputting a correct voltage. You'd backprove the green/red wire on the TPS connector and turn the TPS screw til the meter reads approx 1vdc. Engine idling and hot when doing so.

 

thanks for the help guys i will try all this as soon as possible and get back to you

 

one thing i just rembered is that when i hold the gas down just a little bit while sitting at a light or something, it bounces from 1300 to 1500 until i let the gas off so im gonna check timing base idle and tps once again and go from there

 

i would check tps first

 

i have 20 times ha ha i will check it drive it check it drive it and its still the same

 

Did you go through the steps which Hailers suggested? 1.)Did adjusting the variable resistor have any affect? 2.)The same goes for the idle adjust screw on top of the throttle body (dynamic chamber). 3.) did you "fully" warm up the car properly before attempting to make any necessary adjustments?4.) Have you ruled out any air leaks? 5.) What voltage reading does the TPS read?