2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

does anyone have any help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-31-04, 06:09 PM
  #1  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
phreestyleking's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Exclamation does anyone have any help

for the last 5-6 days i have tried to fix my 86 and to no use it starts and runs but only on one rotor the front i have taken off my intake manifold and swaped injecors cleaned everything out new plugs, coils spark
if u can help please do. ihave done comp test 3 pulses and 95 psi why woulnt my rear rotor run?
Old 07-31-04, 07:04 PM
  #2  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
 
DerangedHermit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Knoxville, TN 37916
Posts: 2,040
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 2 Posts
Compression test on both rotors?
Old 07-31-04, 09:52 PM
  #3  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
phreestyleking's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yes both rotors measured a 95, i took out both fuel rails & cleaned them swaped injectors.
Old 07-31-04, 10:27 PM
  #4  
we...yota...

 
Rattaan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: home
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Are you sure it isn't running on the rear rotor? A friend of mine always says you need three things for the engine to run: air/fuel mixture, compression, and timed spark. It sounds like you have compression for sure. Are you certain that fuel is entering the rear housing? Maybe the injector isn't getting a signal? Are you getting a spark at the correct time? The timing is at least very close to right on? Other than that, I have no idea what would cause a problem unless the rear rotor is completely flooded?
Old 08-01-04, 12:20 AM
  #5  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (8)
 
RotaryResurrection's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Posts: 11,576
Received 25 Likes on 18 Posts
That is very correct, you need 3 basic elements, compression, fuel, and spark...all at the right time.

I know you said you did a compression check, and we'll take your word for that. I;ve heard of people taking out the T plug on the front rotor and checking there, replacing it and taking out the L plug on the front still, testing it, and calling it a good motor. So long as you checked one plughole per rotor (front, then back) then we'll assume you're okay.

Next off, start with a fresh set of plugs. Stockers can foul and cause running problems while looking okay. At very least, clean yours off on a wire brush/bench grinder. Verify that all 4 spark, and that each of the 4 wires has good spark, too. To do this, lay each one by a ground with the wire on it, crank the engine, watch for consistent blue/white spark. Be sure all 4 are clean, install them and be sure they're tight, and your plugwires are installed in the right positions...1 is front rotor, 2 is rear, the block holes are marked L and T, and the coils are marked l1, l2, t1, t2, so it is straightforward, just pay attention.

FInally, check your fuel delivery. First, to be sure it isn't flooded, inject some ATF or motor oil into both lower plugholes. IF that doesnt help, then you might wanna pull your intake back off, and your lower fuel rail. Leave the injectors plugged in to the wiring harness, and leave them installed in the fuel rail, pull it back as a unit. Use some wire and tie the injectors securely to the rail so they will not pop out under pressure. It's a good idea to disable both of your coils by unplugging them, to prevent sparks and explosions. Have someone crank the car over for a second or 2, while you hold the fuel rail back so you can observe the injectors' output. You will want a few rags on hand, as well as a pan or cup under the injectors to catch the spray. The injectors should both spray quickly, alternating front to back, without dripping. There should be considerable force behind the fuel as it gets sprayed, adn the pattern should look like a conical V pattern. Sometimes you'll find that an engine running on one rotor is only getting fuel from one injector. The secondary (upper) injectors DO NOT FIRE at idle or startup, so leave them alone. They only work when driving, above 1/3throttle or above 4krpm. IF both your primaries are firing properly, you are getting proper fuel flow.

Usually, somewhere in this process you will have located the issue.
Old 08-01-04, 06:57 PM
  #6  
Full Member

 
Hollywood56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Miami
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Also make sure that the thermo sensor and plug is working.This will cause this problem also.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:34 PM.