i recently got a Throttle Position Adjuster Tool from mazdatrix and i have no idea how its supposed to work. It didn't come with any instructions or diagrams or anything, and the website says nothing.

heres what im talking about:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm

the connecter fits in the TPS socket (going to the car) but i dont see how its supposed to work if the TPS isn't even connected...

 

You do realize that just two light bulbs.. right? I made one for 3 bucks.

EDIT: I just realized I put up the wrong link. Check the FAQ for adjusting the TPS.

Check that link.

 

No. You leave the TPS plugs connected to the TPS.

You find the GREEN, three socket TPS check connector and then install the adjuster tool in that socket.

That GREEN check connector on a non turbo car is located b/t the AFM and the right strut tower. It's just *floating* in the harness and not tied down to anything.

After you do that, fully heat up the engine. That is a MUST DO.

Then you turn the engine OFF. Then turn the key to ON with the engine not runninig.

Now look at the LAMPS. IF both lamps light OR neither lamp lights, turn the TPS screw until only ONE lamp lights.

ABOUT the step directly above: if both lamps were lit, turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise til one lamp is lit. IF no lamps were lit, then turn the TPS screw clockwise til you have just one LAMP lit.

Your done now. You just have ONE lamp of the two in the device lit. Alls well.

Download the free online FSM and just the FUEL SECTION SECTION 4a. Page 4A-33 in most 88 manuals.

 

thankyou very much HAILERS.

 

Like I said... in the FAQ.

 

If you've removed the ACV and solenoid valves, this method is a watse of time and money (even $3). All you're doing it setting up when the split air and relief air solenoids activate. Using a DMM to measure the TPS's voltage or resistance is far more accurate and allows you to set it where driveability is best on your car.

 

I did that too, works great.

 

I know Ted has a write up for using a DMM to adjust the TPS in an S4 but what about an S5?

 

i have an S5. there's a diagram somewhere in the forum on where to install the probes of the DMM to measure the resistance. i set mine at exactly 1K since the book said for S5 it's between 0.8K - 1.2K (Haynes Manual)

Positive Probe -> Green wire with red stripe

Negative probe - > Black wire

at least, that's what i did and it didn't give me anymore problems... no more hesitations, no more smoke in the morning and oh yeah, better gas mileage

 

Wire colors should be the same.
You're just dealing with twice the number of wires.


-Ted

 

I was looking at the differences between S4's and S5's while using your guide. I can't really insert the leads on the back of the 6-pin S5 sensor. Additionally, I'm not quite sure where to insert each lead to measure resistance.

E C A
F D B

Those are the locations of the pins in the connector. The FSM says to check at A-B and E-D. I'm trying to amalgamate that information with the info you have on your site and the one that Johnr posted on his site but I end up getting confused. I do have a fair amount of questions though.

Is there anyway to insert the leads into the back of the 6-pin connector?
Am I supposed to touch my negative lead on the engine block?
Should I use the body to ground instead?
Or am I supposed to touch the negative lead onto the ground pins?
Is A the Narrow ground and E the Full ground?
Should I insert the negative lead into A (being ground) and positive lead into B (being data) to measure the resistance/voltage in the narrow range?
Should I insert the negative lead into E (being ground) and positive lead into D (being data) to measure the resistance/voltage in the full range?

Any responses would be greatly appreciated.

 

You pull the plug apart.

Put the meter on OHMS

Touch one lead to A and the other lead to B.

Read the meter.

You read the half of the plug that is a part of the TPS assy and do nothing with the other half of that plug.

To help,.........the pin A on the TPS half of the plug was mated with a green/red wire on the other half of the plug. That should help you maks sure your doing the right wires on the TPS half of the plug.

Engine should be HOT when you do this.

 

there's no difference whether I touch the positive lead or the negative lead to A? Or B?

 

Nah. I just stick whichever is closest at the time. This is assuming we're talking about Ohms.