No, starter cut relay is disconnected and jumpered. But, the two wires (cant recall colors) under the dash are taped up. Wondering if speaker could create enough of a field to energize the under dash wires wires and cut all power.

 

Do you have the factory alarm?

 

No signs of it. 2nd horn is absent.

 

On side note, keeping it an auto. Not many 86 auto 2+2''s around.

 

First off, you don't have a Neutral swtch so that ECU pin is wired to a ground and a ground should have zero volts.. Secondly, if you have no alarm then how could you have the Starter Cut Relay? Are you telling me you have a relay which looks like the Main Relay and that they are situated right next to each other.

 

OK - FSM said N switch always below 1.5volts, thought that meant a reading - not a ground.

I have the 6 pin blue connector by the main relay that has a jumper which I thought was the starter cut relay bypass.

Obviously I need to spend a little more time with my 7 and get my s#!t squared with the haves and have not's.

 

A ground can have minimal voltage but yet still be a ground. The Blue connector itself is for cars w/o the Starter Cut Relay and it's jumpered because you don't have that particular relay.

 

The tranny is shifting fine, a little shift shock from P to R or D but nothing terrible.

Pulled the error codes from the ECU and it showed bad Water Thremo Sensor so replaced it. Starts right up but it is still sputtering in D / R.

Have a question, if an idle variable resistor is turned to R or L (off the car) should the ohm readings change from side to side or should they stay the same?

 

An error code for the Thermosensor could be the result of a poor connection to the sensor, and does not necessarily mean the sensor itself is bad. Did you check for codes after it was replaced. W/key to on the ECU pin at 2I, Green/White wire, would read 2 to 3 volts for a cold engine and .4 volts when fully warm. What does yours measure?

 

if the ONLY issue you are having with the car is power braking it then your likely culprit is the torque converter failing. next likely culprit is the AFM.

just do the 5 speed swap, the auto is a power hog.

 

The thermo sensor broke off as soon as i touched it. No error codes after replaced; engine is warm and .43 volts at 2I.

Do you know about the variable resisitor changing ohms as rotated or staying the same reading? It looks like a simple rheostat but looks can be decieving.

 

Not just power braking but driving as well. AFM is good, checked it out. Is it possible to test the torque converter w/o removing it?

 

All I know is that when tested it should fall within .5 to 4.5 ohms.

 

Thats cool

Was testing pin 1J for inital set switch @ ECU.
With key/ ON & START it gave 1.7 volts
With initial set switch jumpered and key/ ON & START gave a .25 volts

Seems pretty low w/o the jumper, says 4-7 volts, reads like a bad ground.
Checked ground by drivers shock tower, under coil where FSM says it grounds to, against battery and it read battery voltage.

 

i don't even test the AFMs anymore, i just swap and recheck them. many test peachy outside of the car but once plugged in, whole different ballpark of random symptoms.

only converter test is the stall test you already performed.

 

Think it is a diff problem - ECU has intitals set switch @ 1.7 volts w/o the jumper.

 

Green connector has 5.5 volts w/ key on though, ECU says 1.7...

 

I'm an IDIOT - was reading wrong pin...

 

Had the t1 and t2 wires mixed. Audio is here https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...6#post11127106 for future reference.

Thanks for all the help, sorry for not putting audio on this thread.

 

I have a SS clutch hose I'm about to put on mine, you can have the rubber one.

 

Sweet - I'll grab it next time I see ya'