It could run, but not very well after a while. Have you addressed the Black wire issue to the battery side of the Engine fuse box yet?

 

Haven't been able to get over to the car today. The afm question was from the other day, forgot to ask.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to skip out on work for a few.

 

Didn't get over today but have to go tomorrow for diff reasons.

Grounding aside, should I just do a 5 speed swap?
Got a local guy who is selling this for $180.00:

The parts included are:
Transmission
Clutch Disc/Pressure Plate/Flywheel (clutch disc has about 15,000 miles on it)
Transmission mount for auto and for manual trans
Pedal Cluster with clutch pedal
Clutch Master cylinder with hardline/ and clutch slave cylinder
Driveshaft (u-joints are good)
Custom transmission mounting bracket (needs a couple holes drilled and its ready to install)

Parts needed for completing the swap:
Rubber clutch line that connects the hardline from the clutch master to the clutch slave (costs about $30)

Is this missing something? Decent price?
Has 130k on it. Said everything is S4 except tranny is S5.

 

Not to get to off topic but having the height adjustment seats and tilt steering would be very fun with the 5 speed

 

Chances are your problem is a simple fix as a wire is likely loose and the location is narrowed down to a very, very,very,very,very few possibilities. What you do w/your money is your decision.

 

I appreciate that.

 

The black wire is solid, no problems with that anymore. Don't see any pins labeled 1 anything - just A to X and 2's and 3's.

 

What do you mean by anymore? You should not have any problem w/the voltage feeding the Main Relay or coming out of it w/key to on so no 12 volts on the W/L wire at one instance and then 2 volts at other times, as I believe you said has happened recently.

 

It was a little loose, tightened it up and it is working as it should.

 

Also, someone had unplugged the grounds that clip to the driver shock tower...which pins are the 1's ? Don't see any in the FSM.

 

So the car is still driving poorly? And the ECU has three plugs so there's a 3A a 2A and a 1A. If a variable such as X is used by itself in a mathematical equation then how many X's are there? The answer is one, thus the coefficient is understood as one!

 

: )

 

Both pins read 13.4 volts, 1i stays at the same voltage with OD button on and off.

 

OK - It is runnning, kinda. If I keep the throttle light on acceleration it will keep going but if i let off or open it up it starts sputtering and wants to die. Out of tune?

 

That or perhaps it's starving for fuel or the injectors are clogged and so on.

 

Checked the BAC, ohms are over spec @ 13.5 and ECU pin for BAC is reading 12 volts. Should be apporx 5 volts right.

 

Ooops, read that wrong, should be 8-12 volts @ ecu

 

If the car is just running and all the accesories are off then the car should be able to idle on its own w/o the need of the BAC. All it does it help the car keep idle when the AC is on for example.

 

Here is a fun one - the loss of current from battery voltage to 2 volts...it is caused by having a speaker wired up. Hooked it up today, dead. Unhooked it, disconnected battery for a minute or so...started right up.

Replicated the same scenario a few times with the same result.

Also, N switch at ECU gives no reading.

 

Would injecting ATF or oil into the rotor housing via the spark plug hole, like a de-flooding procedure, give the engine a higher compression for a 'short' period of time?

 

Most would tell you that ATF will damage the Apex seals. And if you really wanted to spend some quality time on your car you would redo its grounds but that's your call. And the reading at the ECU for the Neutral switch is always below 1.5 volts.

 

Is it possible that a speaker could create enough of a magnetic field to energize the starter cut relay under the dash? Or. more likely, some d-bag hacked up the wiring...:0

 

Working on the grounds, and wouldn't use ATF in the engine.

Reason I was asking was IF it could boost compression. Ran a comp test when I bought it and it was 90x3 front and back...now front is 90x3 and back is 90 - 90 - 65.

Bad side seal from what I've read

 

You don't have the Starter Cut Relay do you? It would look like the Main Relay and is located right next to it, and it has 4 wires to it. Research what a ground is and redo them, especially those related to the battery.

 

I'm getting 0v reading at N switch no matter what - what is the culprit there? I try finding it in FSM and Haynes but nothing.