Does the 86 have a limp mode?
#27
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Haven't been able to get over to the car today. The afm question was from the other day, forgot to ask.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to skip out on work for a few.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to skip out on work for a few.
#28
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Didn't get over today but have to go tomorrow for diff reasons.
Grounding aside, should I just do a 5 speed swap?
Got a local guy who is selling this for $180.00:
The parts included are:
Transmission
Clutch Disc/Pressure Plate/Flywheel (clutch disc has about 15,000 miles on it)
Transmission mount for auto and for manual trans
Pedal Cluster with clutch pedal
Clutch Master cylinder with hardline/ and clutch slave cylinder
Driveshaft (u-joints are good)
Custom transmission mounting bracket (needs a couple holes drilled and its ready to install)
Parts needed for completing the swap:
Rubber clutch line that connects the hardline from the clutch master to the clutch slave (costs about $30)
Is this missing something? Decent price?
Has 130k on it. Said everything is S4 except tranny is S5.
Grounding aside, should I just do a 5 speed swap?
Got a local guy who is selling this for $180.00:
The parts included are:
Transmission
Clutch Disc/Pressure Plate/Flywheel (clutch disc has about 15,000 miles on it)
Transmission mount for auto and for manual trans
Pedal Cluster with clutch pedal
Clutch Master cylinder with hardline/ and clutch slave cylinder
Driveshaft (u-joints are good)
Custom transmission mounting bracket (needs a couple holes drilled and its ready to install)
Parts needed for completing the swap:
Rubber clutch line that connects the hardline from the clutch master to the clutch slave (costs about $30)
Is this missing something? Decent price?
Has 130k on it. Said everything is S4 except tranny is S5.
#30
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Didn't get over today but have to go tomorrow for diff reasons.
Grounding aside, should I just do a 5 speed swap?
Got a local guy who is selling this for $180.00:
The parts included are:
Transmission
Clutch Disc/Pressure Plate/Flywheel (clutch disc has about 15,000 miles on it)
Transmission mount for auto and for manual trans
Pedal Cluster with clutch pedal
Clutch Master cylinder with hardline/ and clutch slave cylinder
Driveshaft (u-joints are good)
Custom transmission mounting bracket (needs a couple holes drilled and its ready to install)
Parts needed for completing the swap:
Rubber clutch line that connects the hardline from the clutch master to the clutch slave (costs about $30)
Is this missing something? Decent price?
Has 130k on it. Said everything is S4 except tranny is S5.
Grounding aside, should I just do a 5 speed swap?
Got a local guy who is selling this for $180.00:
The parts included are:
Transmission
Clutch Disc/Pressure Plate/Flywheel (clutch disc has about 15,000 miles on it)
Transmission mount for auto and for manual trans
Pedal Cluster with clutch pedal
Clutch Master cylinder with hardline/ and clutch slave cylinder
Driveshaft (u-joints are good)
Custom transmission mounting bracket (needs a couple holes drilled and its ready to install)
Parts needed for completing the swap:
Rubber clutch line that connects the hardline from the clutch master to the clutch slave (costs about $30)
Is this missing something? Decent price?
Has 130k on it. Said everything is S4 except tranny is S5.
#32
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You "might" have damaged the Lock Up Relay which relates to the Torque Converter. As I understand it, if it is damaged it would cause the engine to stall. So you need to check the items related to the auto transmission such as ECU pins 1I and 1L. Pin 1L should read 12 volts in any gear and pin 1I would read 12 volts in any gear when the overdrive button is not depressed.
#39
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OK - It is runnning, kinda. If I keep the throttle light on acceleration it will keep going but if i let off or open it up it starts sputtering and wants to die. Out of tune?
#44
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Here is a fun one - the loss of current from battery voltage to 2 volts...it is caused by having a speaker wired up. Hooked it up today, dead. Unhooked it, disconnected battery for a minute or so...started right up.
Replicated the same scenario a few times with the same result.
Also, N switch at ECU gives no reading.
Replicated the same scenario a few times with the same result.
Also, N switch at ECU gives no reading.
#45
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Would injecting ATF or oil into the rotor housing via the spark plug hole, like a de-flooding procedure, give the engine a higher compression for a 'short' period of time?
#46
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Here is a fun one - the loss of current from battery voltage to 2 volts...it is caused by having a speaker wired up. Hooked it up today, dead. Unhooked it, disconnected battery for a minute or so...started right up.
Replicated the same scenario a few times with the same result.
Also, N switch at ECU gives no reading.
Replicated the same scenario a few times with the same result.
Also, N switch at ECU gives no reading.
#47
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Here is a fun one - the loss of current from battery voltage to 2 volts...it is caused by having a speaker wired up. Hooked it up today, dead. Unhooked it, disconnected battery for a minute or so...started right up.
Replicated the same scenario a few times with the same result.
Also, N switch at ECU gives no reading.
Replicated the same scenario a few times with the same result.
Also, N switch at ECU gives no reading.
#48
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Reason I was asking was IF it could boost compression. Ran a comp test when I bought it and it was 90x3 front and back...now front is 90x3 and back is 90 - 90 - 65.
Bad side seal from what I've read