im talking about the strut tower bar

 

dunno... but it would be pretty damn sweet!!

 

ive seen something like it. its just... strut to strut-strut to firewall-strut to firewall.

 

mazdatrix makes a strut tower brace that ties to the firewall and has an engine torque brace on it. its like $350 though, but still very nice

http://mazdatrix.com/h7.htm

 

I personally cant wait to buy this



190.00 + shipping and with no joints it will be VERY stiff

 

cp racing used to make one like this

 

imo that one above is chimpsy looking and fraile

 

"Chimpsy" and "fraile"?
I can't tell if that means you like it or not....

 

I dontlike the one on the white turbo no. its looks easy to break. does not looks like it is supported very well..

Dave

 

wow i like the mazda trix one..but also like the racing beat a lot

 

where does the mazdatrix one mount to the engine? I cant really tell by those tiny pictures. Looks like the front alternator area?

 

Actually, the design is deceiving.
I think the GReddy design is the stiffest of all the front strut bars out there.
Remember, you're trying to reduce flex in the strut towers (bending inward mostly) to prevent unwanted camber changes at the wheels.


-Ted

 

im my opinion... too stiff of a strut tower can cause understeer.

 

i didnt see a strut tower bar for the fc at greddys website. is it not made anymore?

 

yes, that is your opinion... the facts and physics say other wise....

im no physisit but the more integrity you have in the suspension components I.E. strut towers, hinges, and ball joints the more consistant the contact patch will be with the road or racing surface. provided you have the correct setup, stiffer and stronger components will indeed improve handeling, not to mention durability and consistancy.

crap tires, crap shocks, crap springs, crap weather, crap surface. these are all things that can cause understeer.

the worst and lameist cause of understeer ...... A SHITTY DRIVER!!!

 

not to mention that most strut tower or any "lateral support bars" that people buy and slap on are incorrectly installed...most people do not even raise the car off of the ground before installation, thus not maximizing the effectiveness of the brace..

 

very good point!!

no intention of hijacking the thread, but what would be the ideal way to install sub frame connecters. cause im sure that if the lift were to tweak the chassis it would definitly cause some quirks in handeling...

 

hmm jack stands?

 

I can personally vouch for the CP Racing bar. It was a b**** to install but was incredibly stiff and was instantly noticeable in both everyday and spirited driving.

 

Going to a 3 point bumps you out of Street prepared for SCCA auto-X ...so careful what you get if you're gonna race it. Check the rule book first. also check out www.Racingbeat.com they sell some nice stuff as well.

 

weld one of those bitches together haha... grnated you have access to a welder. ive heard a couple of people doing that.

 

Remember: A triangulated brace is not bolt-on. The firewall will need holes drilled in it, or plates welded to it. The firewall can be a thin and non-load-bearing part of the unibody in many places. Make sure you bolt in to a firm part of the firewall.

IMHO: This is one of the last suspension mods you should do.

 

Too bad that running JUST a front strut brace does tend to cause understeer in FCs. If you search, there were several long threads on it in the past.

 

In my experience, FCs understeer naturally.

You want that in a RWD car.

 

Does the firewall really provide that much support? It just doesn't seems like a sturdy place to mount something like that.

Edit:
Nevermind, Tofu answered this. Good job to my reading skills.