Do I really need my oil cooler today??
11-08-07, 02:15 PM
#1
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Do I really need my oil cooler today??
I have had leaking oil lines and I need my car back today. I think my oil cooler is clogged up and the 'splice' job my shop tried on my oil lines keeps backing off. I was thinking of just telling them to route the oil line to the return on the rear iron, but will this kill my engine? I think my clogged cooler would anyway, but I need to get to work! Please help me!!?
BTW, I run a premix if that makes a difference, my OMP is blocked off..
BTW, I run a premix if that makes a difference, my OMP is blocked off..
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11-08-07, 02:49 PM
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
It is not an off the shelf Pep Boys special after thought as oil coolers are on many piston engines.
It is one of the biggest oil coolers ever made for water cooled engine, passenger car use.
To drive your car, you need to have a correct, functioning oil cooler to drive the car unless you want to replace your engine/car.
11-08-07, 03:08 PM
#12
WON'T FORGET DAVE
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Ask man.....Maybe someone will sell you one for cheap and ship it out asap. I've seen what has happened when you run without a cooler or with leaky lines.....
Listen to the Icemark he would never lead you wrong...
Listen to the Icemark he would never lead you wrong...
11-08-07, 07:10 PM
#17
The engine's rotors do not come in direct contact with surfaces that are surrounded by coolant. They are predominantly cooled by engine oil that is sprayed into them by jets on the eccentric shaft. The intense heat from combustion has to be removed from the oil, hence the need for such a massive oil cooler. Do not risk scorching the internals by driving your car.
11-08-07, 08:21 PM
#18
I have had leaking oil lines and I need my car back today. I think my oil cooler is clogged up and the 'splice' job my shop tried on my oil lines keeps backing off. I was thinking of just telling them to route the oil line to the return on the rear iron, but will this kill my engine? I think my clogged cooler would anyway, but I need to get to work! Please help me!!?
BTW, I run a premix if that makes a difference, my OMP is blocked off..
BTW, I run a premix if that makes a difference, my OMP is blocked off..
Get some new lines first.
11-08-07, 09:22 PM
#19
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ok, A wealth of information, thanks guys. Let me just say first to icemark:
yes, I understand that I cannot slap just any after market cooler on here, I imagined that anyway, I did not assume that the oil cooler could be replaced by any old hunk of junk so please give me a little credit, I was referring to a model-specific aftermarket cooler. Yet, I hadn't thought it through completely about your standard reciprocating engines that the combustion chamber is much further away from the lubrication system and therefore a rotary engine's oil would get very hot. Good explanation scrip7, thanks.
darkKnightFC, I live in middle ga, warner robins to be exact..
thanks you guys, I will be pming some of you guys, 88 t-66 i will probably for sure get one of those coolers from you, i dont think I can beat 25 shipped. I may need some lines too, might as well, but the one from the front cover is a royal pain...
BTW, the splice is holding now, he put some glue between the hose and the nipple he spliced onto and clamped it down, and he used high-pressure oil line too, so don't freak out...so I did get to drive it to work today, the question wasn't something I was going to do if it wasn't a good idea and it was only if this splice didn't hold to get me to work today...i got to work so thanks guys!! Anyhow, a quick question.. my shift light doesn't seem to be coming on except for a split second AFTER I shift, no biggie, considering I know when to shift, but it could be a sign that other problems could be present...any ideas? ECU or CPU? Thanks for all the help...
yes, I understand that I cannot slap just any after market cooler on here, I imagined that anyway, I did not assume that the oil cooler could be replaced by any old hunk of junk so please give me a little credit, I was referring to a model-specific aftermarket cooler. Yet, I hadn't thought it through completely about your standard reciprocating engines that the combustion chamber is much further away from the lubrication system and therefore a rotary engine's oil would get very hot. Good explanation scrip7, thanks.
darkKnightFC, I live in middle ga, warner robins to be exact..
thanks you guys, I will be pming some of you guys, 88 t-66 i will probably for sure get one of those coolers from you, i dont think I can beat 25 shipped. I may need some lines too, might as well, but the one from the front cover is a royal pain...
BTW, the splice is holding now, he put some glue between the hose and the nipple he spliced onto and clamped it down, and he used high-pressure oil line too, so don't freak out...so I did get to drive it to work today, the question wasn't something I was going to do if it wasn't a good idea and it was only if this splice didn't hold to get me to work today...i got to work so thanks guys!! Anyhow, a quick question.. my shift light doesn't seem to be coming on except for a split second AFTER I shift, no biggie, considering I know when to shift, but it could be a sign that other problems could be present...any ideas? ECU or CPU? Thanks for all the help...
11-08-07, 09:27 PM
#20
If you have not gotten it yet, the oil cooler for the FC is a special over-sized one that was designed to provide a major amount of cooling.
It is not an off the shelf Pep Boys special after thought as oil coolers are on many piston engines.
It is one of the biggest oil coolers ever made for water cooled engine, passenger car use.
To drive your car, you need to have a correct, functioning oil cooler to drive the car unless you want to replace your engine/car.
It is not an off the shelf Pep Boys special after thought as oil coolers are on many piston engines.
It is one of the biggest oil coolers ever made for water cooled engine, passenger car use.
To drive your car, you need to have a correct, functioning oil cooler to drive the car unless you want to replace your engine/car.
This had me cracking the hell up for some reason.
11-08-07, 10:17 PM
#21
Man, DO NOT **** around with hacked oil lines. Either stop driving the car or get some lines. Those things are under as much as 80psi and see temps of as much as 225*F, and if one lets go you have exactly 30 seconds of drive time before you destroy your shiny new engine that you just dropped a grand or 2 on. IS 20 bucks for a used set of oil cooler lines (or better yet 130 for a set of corksport SS lines that will outlast the car) really worth the risk?
The oil coolers really won't clog up, they are under too much heat and pressure, and you have an oil filter that keeps large particles from getting into the oil stream.
Some sediment can collect in the corners of the oil cooler if you run dirty oil, so it's not a bad idea to flush a cooler before putting it into use or putting in a new engine. To do this I usually remove the thermostat in the oil cooler, plug the bypass hole with a nut and bolt, then circulate solvent through it with a low pressure pump for a couple of hours. You can also send them out to aircraft facilities for professional cleaning and restoration for about 100 bucks.
The oil coolers really won't clog up, they are under too much heat and pressure, and you have an oil filter that keeps large particles from getting into the oil stream.
Some sediment can collect in the corners of the oil cooler if you run dirty oil, so it's not a bad idea to flush a cooler before putting it into use or putting in a new engine. To do this I usually remove the thermostat in the oil cooler, plug the bypass hole with a nut and bolt, then circulate solvent through it with a low pressure pump for a couple of hours. You can also send them out to aircraft facilities for professional cleaning and restoration for about 100 bucks.
11-08-07, 10:32 PM
#22
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Oh, believe me with this car I have assumed that ANY small thing is going to screw my new engine up, that's why I am asking these questions..
I am watching my oil pressure like a hawk!!! believe me this is a temporary fix, and if it goes out and causes any damage this shop is going to pay it all you better believe it. I am going to replace this line in the next day or two on my own, and I'm gonna try not to drive it as much as I can, and the second I suspect the oil pressure has dropped I am shutting this engine off, but I really don't have much choice but to drive it, there's no public transportation except cabs and I don't have a bike or any money...damn this is a sh***y predicament. I am trying to sell some things on ebay but no one is paying me!! Anyhow, thanks guys. I'm gonna let you know how things pan out for me...Thanks!
I am watching my oil pressure like a hawk!!! believe me this is a temporary fix, and if it goes out and causes any damage this shop is going to pay it all you better believe it. I am going to replace this line in the next day or two on my own, and I'm gonna try not to drive it as much as I can, and the second I suspect the oil pressure has dropped I am shutting this engine off, but I really don't have much choice but to drive it, there's no public transportation except cabs and I don't have a bike or any money...damn this is a sh***y predicament. I am trying to sell some things on ebay but no one is paying me!! Anyhow, thanks guys. I'm gonna let you know how things pan out for me...Thanks!
11-09-07, 03:21 AM
#23
I doubt the shop will pay you back for any damages caused by a cheap temporary fix. You know its not a good idea to drive the car like that and everyone here has told you not to risk your engine over a simple fix like this.
Get the phone book and look for a shop that does hydraulic lines. Take off your stock oil lines and take them to this shop. They will make them like new again and the fix will cost you a few bucks and a few hours of downtime. Theres way too much pressure running in these lines for a cheap bandaid fix to hold up. Imagine if the lines burst while your in the middle of a turn at speed? The oil is going to get all over the tires and you'll loose control. Same thing if the lines burst spilling oil all over the street and the car behind you hits the oil patch and slams into you or hits something.
Get your lines fixed asap. Stock oil lines are known for leaks and people usually get upgraded braided steel ones or they get a shop to "rebuild" them.
Get the phone book and look for a shop that does hydraulic lines. Take off your stock oil lines and take them to this shop. They will make them like new again and the fix will cost you a few bucks and a few hours of downtime. Theres way too much pressure running in these lines for a cheap bandaid fix to hold up. Imagine if the lines burst while your in the middle of a turn at speed? The oil is going to get all over the tires and you'll loose control. Same thing if the lines burst spilling oil all over the street and the car behind you hits the oil patch and slams into you or hits something.
Get your lines fixed asap. Stock oil lines are known for leaks and people usually get upgraded braided steel ones or they get a shop to "rebuild" them.
11-09-07, 02:41 PM
#24
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Yes, thank all of you guys for your support and info, and I respect your advice and will heed it. BTW, it wasn't MY idea to do this, as a matter of fact I am only driving this thing on the confidence of the mechanic that did this...
also, it is a new motor, and they held it revved at 3500 for 5-10 minutes and built pressure to around 80-90 psi to see if that would hold before they released my car to me, and I have no intention on letting the RPM get above 4000 for a WHILE, so I am not seeing that this oil pressure should get any higher than that...at least not before I get the new line...
and it isn't quite a band-aid, they did it very well, it is actually the next best thing to having a new line, they didn't have any compression-fittings otherwise I wouldn't even be needing this advice..but they flared the metal line and clamped the hose around it with two clamps and put some loctite (not by brand, but equivalent industrial-strength bonding agent) around the metal line before the hose was clamped down. I see that by my vague descriptions thus far it sounds like I might as well have shoved the hose on and wrapped duct tape around it..
Anyhow, not trying to argue or disagree even, just being more specific in my description.
And I am getting an oil cooler and lines replaced ASAP..thanks guys!
also, it is a new motor, and they held it revved at 3500 for 5-10 minutes and built pressure to around 80-90 psi to see if that would hold before they released my car to me, and I have no intention on letting the RPM get above 4000 for a WHILE, so I am not seeing that this oil pressure should get any higher than that...at least not before I get the new line...
and it isn't quite a band-aid, they did it very well, it is actually the next best thing to having a new line, they didn't have any compression-fittings otherwise I wouldn't even be needing this advice..but they flared the metal line and clamped the hose around it with two clamps and put some loctite (not by brand, but equivalent industrial-strength bonding agent) around the metal line before the hose was clamped down. I see that by my vague descriptions thus far it sounds like I might as well have shoved the hose on and wrapped duct tape around it..
Anyhow, not trying to argue or disagree even, just being more specific in my description.
And I am getting an oil cooler and lines replaced ASAP..thanks guys!
11-09-07, 02:48 PM
#25
This reminds me of a partscar I bought once. IT was an s4 NA base that was sitting behind this house across town, and the house was for sale. I called the realty and got the owners number and they sold me the car for 200 bucks. Said it had a blown motor.
I got it home and compression seemed okay so I thought, hell, this might be a fix and resell, instead of a partscar. Checked fluids and got it started. IT vibrated really badly, turned out the clutch disc had broken and both halves had fallen down to one side throwing it out of balance badly. I changed that out and it ran okay. I went to drive it around the neighborhood and made it about 2 streets over, maybe .4 miles, when the oil buzzer went off and pressure dropped. I shut it off almost immediately and stepped out to find a trail of oil behind me.
Had to pull the car back home with my truck. Turns out some dickbeater decided it would be a great idea to replace a bad oil cooler line with a section of GREEN GARDEN HOSE and 2 standard hose clamps.
I replaced the lines and oil, but the damage was done. Engine had bearing damage, had a mild vibration and knocking sound in the 2500-3000rpm range. Needless to say, I was pretty pissed after putting that much work into a partscar.
I got it home and compression seemed okay so I thought, hell, this might be a fix and resell, instead of a partscar. Checked fluids and got it started. IT vibrated really badly, turned out the clutch disc had broken and both halves had fallen down to one side throwing it out of balance badly. I changed that out and it ran okay. I went to drive it around the neighborhood and made it about 2 streets over, maybe .4 miles, when the oil buzzer went off and pressure dropped. I shut it off almost immediately and stepped out to find a trail of oil behind me.
Had to pull the car back home with my truck. Turns out some dickbeater decided it would be a great idea to replace a bad oil cooler line with a section of GREEN GARDEN HOSE and 2 standard hose clamps.
I replaced the lines and oil, but the damage was done. Engine had bearing damage, had a mild vibration and knocking sound in the 2500-3000rpm range. Needless to say, I was pretty pissed after putting that much work into a partscar.