2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Discount auto part brake master cyl

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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 12:28 PM
  #1  
Pat McGroin's Avatar
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Discount auto part brake master cyl

Just wanted to hear everyone's experience with discount auto parts remanufactured brake master cylinders.
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 12:30 PM
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Is it their brand, or one they sell. Need more info.

Go with Mazda OEM, Bendix, or my favorite, Beck/Arnley.
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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Dont buy reman or rebuilt master Cyl. Always go new with that part.

Tokico makes great new replacements.
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RockLobster
Dont buy reman or rebuilt master Cyl. Always go new with that part.

Tokico makes great new replacements.
Where do you get those from? I bought a reman master cylinder and my brakes have always been spongy no matter how much I bleed the system. Mech says I should replace it.

-Max
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxJenius211
Where do you get those from? I bought a reman master cylinder and my brakes have always been spongy no matter how much I bleed the system. Mech says I should replace it.

-Max
Did you check the rod length from the booster when you got the new MC? I have heard that as a problem before.
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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i bought an aftermarket rebuild slave and clutch master from O'Reiley auto parts and havent had a problem
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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I bought mine tokico new unit from mazdatrix.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by necron3x
Did you check the rod length from the booster when you got the new MC? I have heard that as a problem before.
No I don't know anything about that. Wouldn't the rod be in a standard position when the brakes are not depressed?

-Max
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxJenius211
No I don't know anything about that. Wouldn't the rod be in a standard position when the brakes are not depressed?

-Max
The main problem would come from the position of the rod when engaged. It might have to do mainly when getting a new booster but I could see it being something to look at when getting a new master. The Chilton says to check the booster's rod length vs. the master recessed cup. There is only supposed to be a small amount of space between the booster’s rod end and the bottom of the master’s cup.
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