NSXchink

hi..

i recently had an alternator problem, and that got fixed.. cause i have a voltage meter in my turbo timer..

but my main problem is that
when is start the car.. say its 8pm..
its night time, and when i start it my dash lights are very dim.. (yes i checked the dimmer switch, it set all the way on bright)
but when i start driving for about 5 minutes.. it gets bright again.. and everything is ok, but occasionally it will flicker dim and bright again..

a buddy of mine thought that my 12Voltage regulator might have gone bad..

also im pretty sure my empty gas light doesn't turn on or my battery light doesn't turn on..

anyone else have similar problems, or could help me?

thanks..

Greg

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

sounds like something is loose to me...

what have you checked wiring wise so far?

NSXchink

honestly, i have not.. but i know i'am getting good voltage from my alternator..

Alex6969

have you checked your room fuse yet? sometimes a bad (not blown) fuse can cause some problems.

Ronin Rotary

If the voltage is okay (above 12.6 volts and preferably above 13.5 volts) and you are getting intermittent dimming, you probably have bad solder joints in the Clock/warning panel.

Icemark sells rebuilt ones at Mazdamark.com

And as a hint, the voltage regulator is integrated with the alternator, so if it is bad, you would not be getting good voltage from the alternator.

NSXchink

pretty sure none of them blown out..

NSXchink

hopefully the clock/warning panel will work

yea even the clock dissapears most of the time..

CompuBob

thats normal.. it's hard to find a clock that works.. sometimes my clock only works when I'm on the brakes, or when I'm turning it will blink with the turn signal.

Icemark

That is not normal... that is a clock warning panel needing rebuilding or replacing.

Carzy Driver

either a fuse is bad, lose connection, or most likely you have a cold solder problem.

CompuBob

yah I picked up another one thinking it would work, nope. it's actoually in worse condition than the one that came with the car :P
it dosent bother me though. all the warning lights work, it's just the clock. I have one in the radio anyways.

CrypticApathy

you mean these things came with clocks!!! I had a problem simlar to yours except its my cluster. They get brighter when i hit the gas and go darker when i let off the gas. I always thought it had to do with the battery or something. I dont think half my idiot lights work, i know the door/hatch/break/coolant do but the rest of them dont look like it.

Icemark

I sell rebuilt ones for $45 and up (depending on how much it costs to buy the core), and rebuild them for only $30 (goes up to $35 on Feb first) so there is no reason what so ever to have an old one that flickers or doesn't work right.

Mura

I'm still on the warning panel part. I know there's 2 screws that hold the idiot lights in place, but how do you take out the clock? And upon buying one off you, does that $45 include shipping?

NSXchink

hey mark, i hope u got my e-mail

thanks

Icemark

Yes, just two screws to remove the panel.

No, it does not include shipping. Shipping is calculated based on value of the part (for insurance) weight and distance, but seldom is over $10 for anywhere in North America.



As a reminder, this fix is for the clock flickering or idiot lights not coming on (or not going off) on the Clock/warning panel. If the gauge lights are also flickering then you have an electrical problem either with the light switch, or the alternator itself.