ahyc84

hm.....i've throught about this for quite a while before asking, so i'm seeing if anyone has any thought as to what the problem is.
This is for a GXL with a Jspec turbo engine swapped in. I brought the car with the swap, and they used the friggin NA harness, cuz there's a crap load of unplugged harnesses.

i've removed all the emission, OMP, BAC, ACV, airpump, i think this is it....

Also cut out the cats and welded in a test pipe, on top of that, i ported out my TB after removing the first set of butterflies. I ported it out quite a bit....lol. here's a pic before my half *** job of polishing it
http://members.shaw.ca/ahyc84/FC3S/TB/IMG_2893.JPG


now i have 2 problems,

A. The car won't idle, well ya i thougt i could just adjust the idling to higher, but whenever the throttle is under 3k, it'd go all the way down to like under 1k, then dies. I've tried to get it in the right spot with the throttle, but it's either 3k(or maybe a lil lower by 100rpm or so) or dies.
if i hold the throttle at 3k, it'd try to die off after about maybe 20sec? i could jsut give it some mroe gas and it'd come back up

Does anyone have any idea if this is because of the TB porting? i wouldn't be too surprised if it is, but anyways, lmk if anyone has any experience on that. Cuz i 2x chk'd all my vacuum hose and i don't see any more vacuum hoses left unplug
(i previousely forgot about like 3 vacuum hose and the car was idling at 3k then dies). I do recall something about adjusting the idle after emission removal, but this just seems a lil more wacked then just simple idle adjustment.


B. I'm totally lost on this part, my turbo won't spool at all. i don't hear anything even when i rev it up to like 6k. I checked the wastegate vacuum metal line that goes in to the LIM, i never touched that. All the hoses around the turbo is connected, so i'm totally lost as to why this wont spool. Any idea if there could be any hose\plug that i disconnected during emission removal that could relate to this problem? i have absolutely no idea what could be wrong with the turbo besides that i damaged some fins when i took the exhaust off with the crow bar (i couldn't pull it out after all the bolts were off!), but i made sure that the crowbar never turned to the turbo side. so.....help!!!



C. oh, and does anyone know that that lil box beside the variable resistor is?
it's located in the USDM passenger side of the engine bay, mounted right on the front side of the shock tower. It has a harness plug connected to it. The silicone hose coming out of that thing isn't connected to anything, i can't recall if i disconnected this or it was like that before

any pointers would be VERY much appreciated.
Thanks a lot in advance.

-Adrian

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

the na harness is way different i dont see how you could use it.... theres wires for the intake air temp sensor that doesnt even exist on the NA, or the knock sensor...., i'd run down ALL the wiring see if its in the right spots for the pins on the ecu, you might have a bunch of sensors not even working.... or wires running to the wrong thing!

allmost still sounds like a vac leak.... if you got no BAC then theres no idle control....

cant remember what goes to the waste gate somehow that allmost seems like its conected wrong??

as for part C thats your pressure/BOOST sensor.... you need that conected!!! or the ecu doesnt know if the cars in boost or not... the hose conects to a vacume nipple coming out of the side of the UMI,what pressure sensor are u using?? it has to be from a turbo car!! the NA sensor isnt calibrated for boost, it maxes out at atmousphere.

take some pics of where some of your hoses are running maybe??

RETed

Uh, dumb question...

Did you put back the throttle plates after taking that pic???


-Ted

iceblue

You can use the NA harness if they wired it up correctly. I do not recommend the NA ECU b/c of the timing not being pulled under boost.

Check what ECU you have, it is under the carpet floor panel passenger side.
The waste gate is a silicone hose going from the nipple on the compressor neck around and down to the waste gate on the turbo.

C. As stated is your pressure sensor. This does need to be one from a turbo car. This line hooks up to the nipple on the UIM that you see facing the strut tower.

You removed your oil injection. Did you cap the bleed line on the back "fire wall" side of the UIM?

A VAC leak makes your idle jump up. It should not normally just kill the motor. The BAC and ACV tend to be leaky areas when blocked off check these are sealed well.

You do have a after market boost gauge right?

Your turbo won’t spool! Pull off your TID and see if you can spin the compressor with your fingers twisting the rod. Check for shaft play up down and in and out. In and out is bad a little up and down is normal, excessive is bad.

The only idle adjustment you have on your car now is the fast idle cam screw on the TB.

Check your TPS is in spec, it is good to have a proper working one. And water thermo sensor.

Check your compression. Spark plugs and wires.

I would go over all the work as has been said so far. Then look at dirty injectors. I said injectors’ last b/c the other stuff is just easy and should be done anyhow.

ahyc84

well, i can't recall if i could hear the turbo when it's reving in neutral, some cars don't hit boost at all in neutral reving.

I do have the jspec turbo ecu, i checked, it's from a 87 turbo 13b.

the bleed line on the back of the UIM, is that the bigger one of the 3 , which is also in between the 2 nipple coming out from just right after the TB?
cuz that one is plugged. I do hear some sorta air sound from the turbo side i think, but i can't tell if that's just the turbo spinning at very low psi, or a vacuum leak, or just the fan. I'm temporarily running the exhaust bolted on with out a exhaust gasket, so the engine bay is still a little loud...lol

yes i put the butterflies back after that picture.


does anyone have the part number for the turbo boost sensor? I have no idea whether this is the NA one or turbo one. cuz for the nipple coming out of the UIM, that was connected to hte BOV, the same hose also splites in to another hose for the boost gauge to get a reading from.

I'm not so worried about the wiring and all, i got a microtech ecu sitting in my room that i just gotta have it exchanged, since they send me the wrong one on the GB. I just want to make sure the car runs fine before i install it. I'm going to go ahead and try to adjust the fast idling on the TB. i wanted to yesterday, but just the fact that i wasn't about to control the throttle at all under 3k, makes me think it's hard to adjust the throttle there...

iceblue

I dont here mine. You wont build boost in N.
Ok good then.
The big one is the oil injection. I forgot what the 3rd one is I only have 2 on mine. Check them block off plates good, seal them up with your hand see if there is a air leak and so on.
I have one from a 88. I will look in a bit and post the number, maybe it help. I run all my gauges to the TB but that is a fine spot for it. I also run my BOV here with the PS.
You should have no issues adjusting the idle there. That is all I have and meany members have.

Good luck.

ahyc84

hm. it shouldn't be the sealing on the block off plates, i made sure i put an excess amount on it :P so there's like a bead of sealant on the side of the plates

you run ur bov at the power steering? eh?

iceblue

Pressure Sensor.

ahyc84

ohhh lol. k a that was dumb


just got it to finally kinda idle. it jumps up and down like about 400rpm constantly like it does if it has a vacuum leak. But what makes me wonder is the fact that it fires up to 3k and idle for like 15sec then comes back down and do the up and down idle thing aroud 1k

I recall reading something about the 3k idle having to do with vacuum leak right?


haven't tried the car out yet, cuz i found a coolant leak at the plastic thingy under the air bleed cap.

iceblue

The 3k warn up is due to the thermo wax pallet on the TB. As the pallet warms up the wax becomes liquidized and idle is returned to normal. A dirty wax pallet can cause the car to never idle down. You can do a mod to remove it or you can leave it and clean it. The subject is debatable. The whole purpose is to warm the car up to reduce cold emissions by heating up the cats.

You ported the TB? Did you seal the coolant hole properly? And cap off the coolant line on the block and the water pump housing?

ahyc84

well the coolant ports on the TB i didn't bother, but the other ones i did. i sealed it pretty good, at least i think i did heh

the one in the block should be good. used a cap on it and made sure it's on there good, just didn't use any sealant on it or anything.

RETed

Uh, how can the wax pellet get "dirty" if it's totally sealed???


-Ted

iceblue

The linkage dirty / stuck / gumed / broke / bad pallet / not working properly.