Difficulty starting all the time...Help!!
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Difficulty starting all the time...Help!!
I've been having problems starting up ever since I got the car, I had an FD fuel pump and new filter installed hoping that it would solve my problem. Not. My problem is different because I can get it started but I have to really pump the gas pedal while cranking it. I thought that maybe I needed to get an after market ignition system but I'm not sure if that's it. Has anyone had this problem and fixed it....or have any thoughts on this?
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Come on guys...I tried searching, but most starting problems are different from mine, I can get started but I have to pump the gas pedal big time. What could be the problem?
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That's something I had'nt thought of...Fuel pressure. My compression is just a tad low nothing major. Is there any way to check the stock pressure regulator with out some kind of pressure gauge?, and if it did go bad..what regulator have most went with (easy/hard installation?)
#6
this same problem was happening to me when my motor was getting really low on compression..It seemed like when i tried to start it i would have to give it gas till it started..get the compression tested that is the sure fire way.
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motor though it may not feel like it driving is getting tired. Put in a fuel cut switch for now, but wouldn't give ya a lenth of time your motor's going to last. I've crapped out a couple of motors now (Though I rebuild them now) and you can tell when their getting close. Give it redline every day, that seemed to help , seriously.
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I hope my engine is'nt going out on me..it seems to be running strong, what's the logic on redlining it to make it last?....That would probably clear out any carbon buid-up which is probably helping out if my seals are going bad.
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redlining on high milage = eating apex seals or I would think so I do it every now and then but not every day that a good way to kill Mr. Rotary. If you want to get rid of carbon put ATF in the eninge threw the spark plug holes, and if you don't like ATF there are numberous other chemicals that desolve carbon build ups. Also my car was kind of hard to start and you would have to give it gas when you restarted it after it had ran and you had to let the engine crank more before it would cold start so I got the injectors cleaned and that fixed the problem for the most part. I would lookk in to having the injectors cleaned it cost me about $100 dollars for all four. They probably need cleaned anyways, if you do have that done take them out and find some place that will do a full service cleaning and rebuild, that is what I did.
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My injectors should be alright, I just had new secondary 720's installed. My boost gauge is showing 13-14, does that sound good for compression?, I try to get the regulator checked this weekend. Has anyone installed an aftermarket regulator(fuel)?, is this an easy install? Thanks.
#11
You said you just had an FD fuel pump installed and you have new 720s in the secondaries. Could you be pushing too much pressure with that pump making the car run rich?? As for the 720s, they are not active when starting the car so you might want to check out the primaries. Compression check from Mazda is the only SURE way of testing the engine internals. I'd check the fuel pressure first, injectors second, and also put new plugs in it. You might also check for vac. leaks. If all that fails, get a compression test.
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I don't know alot about turbo's but I do know that running the car lean is a good way to kill a rotary. I'm not sure on how to check to see of it is running lean but if I were you I would search up on that subject just to make sure that it is not running to lean that is a good way to kill a turbo
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I think on a series five, you hold the pedal all the way down to unflood one. You might try just holding the pedal all the way down and see what the results are compared to your past starting procedures. If it starts better, then that might be a clue that the car is too rich at startup. Also, the bac is supposed to be wide open on a rx during startup. Maybe that might be a small part of your problem. If its not working as it should.
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I've got an S-AFC and my air fuel gauge is showing slightly rich on throttle more on the lean side during idle. It's not flooding at all..just need to pump the gas to get it going. I still at a loss as to how to check the regulator....and if anyone knows how easy/hard it is to install an aftermarket regulator.
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Hell, the regulator is easy to check. Get a pressure gauge, put a hose on it,
Put a tee in the end of that line
Pull the fuel delivery hose(the one that comes off the fuel filter) off its pipe at the engine,
Put that hose(the one from the fuel filter) on one end of the tee,
Put another piece of hose on the other end of the tee and connect that hose to the engine delivery pipe.
Start the engine. Read the pressure.
Pull the vacuum hose off the fpr. Read the pressure.
Compare the values in the fsm.
Put a tee in the end of that line
Pull the fuel delivery hose(the one that comes off the fuel filter) off its pipe at the engine,
Put that hose(the one from the fuel filter) on one end of the tee,
Put another piece of hose on the other end of the tee and connect that hose to the engine delivery pipe.
Start the engine. Read the pressure.
Pull the vacuum hose off the fpr. Read the pressure.
Compare the values in the fsm.
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